Dual headlights

[hurrican3p]

Is there a simple kit to get dual beams on low that any one had had success with and can recommend?

I will be having a pro install it and just looking for a kit for my 2004 fZ6

Thanks




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Look up BD43 mod.

Very popular mod, no cutting, splicing, literally plug and play with the factory wiring harness.

If you can get under the battery tray, you can install it...

It simply makes your right bulb work on low beam,then turn the LB element off when switching to high beam


* I just sent him a PM to see of he's still making them. I'll post back when I hear something..

 

[2nd childhood]

+1 on the BD43 mod. Didn't take me much time at all to install it and it makes a world of difference. Plus it just looks cooler. Blah

 

[major tom]

I'm interested. Please let us know Scott

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Cliff or Randy,

BD43's profile shows he's a moderator and has been on recently but nothing about selling the mod.

Can either of you check with him about it? I sent him a PM and all the old threads basically show how to make them,
but nothing recent about selling them..

[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION]

[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]

[MENTION=673]Cloggy[/MENTION]

 

[FinalImpact]

An email is an email. Perhaps [MENTION=458]bd43[/MENTION] ?

 

[FinalImpact]

Or...
You can make this stuff too. I did. Or buy the parts yourself.
Motorsport Connectors - Corsa Technic

I would advise a sealed bullet connector at the same location as the OEM connectors in the left fairing. If you need to remove the fairing later, just unplug the connector there....
The flag can be found over the counter at most parts stores. Grab some heat shrink tubing for protection and you're set...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yep, I found the build thread (super long) and sent him a PM too.

Is he still moderating here?

 

[MattR302]

First, ask yourself, why do you want the dual headlights? If it's to avoid the "hey you've got a headlight out!" comments, or for symmetry looks, then go ahead.
For extra light on the road, it's maybe 10-20% more usable light, definitely nowhere near twice the light, because the reflector is optimized for the high beam.
If you do add the second headlight, it's using up a large portion of the extra alternator output, so you may run into issues draining the battery if you plan on using heated gloves or grips (happened to me).

You can do this mod with 2-3' of wire, and a spade terminal (Flag style is better than whats shown below). There's a green wire in the left side control harness which runs back under the tank, and the BD43 wire plugs into a connector there. Or, you can just do what the PO of my bike did, tap into it near the grip and run it to the open slot in the highbeam headlight plug. It functions the same way as the BD43 mod. Personally, I would add a 10 amp switch in-line with the wire, so you can switch off the extra light if you are using heated gear (and add a voltmeter or led voltage monitor).

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Matt, does you mod TURN OFF the right side low beam when the high beam is activated?
I'd put money it DOES NOT. Your simply tapping off the left side. Thus your charging issues with other accessories.

I've NEVER had charging issues with the BD43 mod and that's with both headlights, And
that's with running a Widder electric vest and gauntlet gloves..

The BD43 mod plugs into an UN-USED TERMINAL, which yours definitely is NOT.

**You shouldn't have both filaments burning in the same bulb at any time. Besides the additonal,
unnecessary draw of two filaments burning in the same bulb, it also shortens the life of the bulb
considerably with the EXTRA HEAT

 

[Motogiro]

First, ask yourself, why do you want the dual headlights? If it's to avoid the "hey you've got a headlight out!" comments, or for symmetry looks, then go ahead.
For extra light on the road, it's maybe 10-20% more usable light, definitely nowhere near twice the light, because the reflector is optimized for the high beam.
If you do add the second headlight, it's using up a large portion of the extra alternator output, so you may run into issues draining the battery if you plan on using heated gloves or grips (happened to me).

You can do this mod with 2-3' of wire, and a spade terminal (Flag style is better than whats shown below). There's a green wire in the left side control harness which runs back under the tank, and the BD43 wire plugs into a connector there. Or, you can just do what the PO of my bike did, tap into it near the grip and run it to the open slot in the highbeam headlight plug. It functions the same way as the BD43 mod. Personally, I would add a 10 amp switch in-line with the wire, so you can switch off the extra light if you are using heated gear (and add a voltmeter or led voltage monitor).

Matt we are aware that you can find that wire and tap into it. The type of wire you're using, it's length. radius, strand count, insulator application are just some of the issues you might consider for proper application of a moveable, bending wire supplying power to a headlight. I don't know where you get your percentage numbers and many re-aim the headlamp.

Construction of the spade connection is done from a hacked 1/4 spade connector. You can purchase a proper flag connector (made for headlamps) from most any automotive parts store. The crimp on that connector can overheat as well as the spade connector because the improper contact point will be less, causing the current to flow in less than optimum contact points. If you know how to do a decent soldering job you could at least solder that spade at the crimp. I would also check where that wire was hacked into the sheathing on the bars and make sure it's been properly soldered, sealed and insulated.


As I say to many in the tech fields today, "As long as your not working on aircraft!"

Ride safe!

 

[MattR302]

Matt, does you mod TURN OFF the right side low beam when the high beam is activated?
I'd put money it DOES NOT. Your simply tapping off the left side.

It sure does turn off the low beam when high is activated. It's not tapping the left side at all. Check the wiring diagram.
The left side low beam does not go through the high/low switch at all, as it is constantly on. Stock, all the high/low switch does is turn the high on and off. But it is a SPDT switch, capable of switching from high to low. The green wire which dead ends in the connector BD43 uses is connected to the low side of the SPDT high/low switch. One my bike, the new wire is simply tapped into the green wire up near the switch, rather than under the tank at the connector.

I don't mean to toot my own horn, but I'm a mechanical engineer with a knack for electrical stuff, I've posted up a couple LED brake lights boards I've built. When I bought the bike and saw how it was wired, I was hesitant and thought it was hacked as you described, then I looked into it, saw it functioned as intended, so left it (cleaned it up and properly soldered and taped it, not shown here) until I swapped to the dual HIDs I have now.

Edit, I know the BD43 harness is high quality, etc. Plus the OP is considering spending money to have a pro hook it up. My point being, it can be done considerably cheaper if you can crimp a spade terminal and make a soldered or even a posi-tap connection. (I also recommended a flag terminal in my first post).

I'll post up some pictures of the witing diagram tonight when I get to a computer, and then PM you my paypal account for that money you wanted to bet on it. :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

JM2C but the bulbs heat at the spade could be enough to melt solder if both elements are on. Tin/lead solder melts about 650 - 750°F. Not likely but it may soften it.

That said, i have not seen any wires soldered on the oem harness. They are all crimped to the best of my knowledge. I would guess it is because it makes the wire(s) brittle. Couple vibrations with soldered copper strands and the potential for strand breakage goes up.

I personally would advise against it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The LEFT side oem always stays on LB. The right side beam is what we're concerned about.

That set up likely has power to both filaments when you switch your high beam on.

A simple way to see is a test light to both wire terminals(right side only) and see if their both on at the same time(-NOT good) when the HB is on.

 

[MattR302]

The right side beam is what we're concerned about.

That set up likely has power to both filaments when you switch your high beam on

It does not. Check the wiring diagram. It functions the EXACT SAME way and connects to the EXACT SAME wire.

 

[Motogiro]

JM2C but the bulbs heat at the spade could be enough to melt solder if both elements are on. Tin/lead solder melts about 650 - 750°F. Not likely but it may soften it.

That said, i have not seen any wires soldered on the oem harness. They are all crimped to the best of my knowledge. I would guess it is because it makes the wire(s) brittle. Couple vibrations with soldered copper strands and the potential for strand breakage goes up.

I personally would advise against it.

Soldering is acceptable and in the case of that spade connector it would be far better than what was present. Depending on the type solder joint and and mechanical security as with the headlamp plug.
There is a proper way to crimp but I rarely see it performed. You should have the correct crimping tool for the job and dimple opposite the seam on the butt splice or connector. There is a technique to it and once mastered, you will have a great electro-mechanical connection.
Since Matt has redone the related electrics for the headlamps I'm sure he's good now.

 

[hurrican3p]

First, ask yourself, why do you want the dual headlights? If it's to avoid the "hey you've got a headlight out!" comments, or for symmetry looks, then go ahead.

I have asked myself, and here's my answer : Yes! This is purely for cosmetic reasons. I don't like people (especially cops) asking me or taking notice
of the single low beam "feature"

BD43 WHERE ARE YOU