Engine sound and vibrations - excessive noise from chain and valves?

AGSTS

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So a new noise decided to develop (engine up to operating temp). This weird clattering noise for a brief moment can be heard when letting off the throttle quickly similar to
turbodan's video posted here. More evidence on the cam chain rattle? Both sides of the motorcycle are attached in the links. I've immediately ordered new cam chain tensioner.
 
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AGSTS

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Yes, I noticed much more noise this time riding, that's what made me interested in checking on it again when stopped. I cannot say this is the EXACT same noise due to wind and traffic noise, my position on the bike (not having my head near the engine), but increase in noise was definitely there.
 

Gary in NJ

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I asked because when the bike is in gear and you roll off the throttle, the engine will not spin-down as fast as it does when in neutral. It might be easier to isolate or correlate that noise when the engine is under load. From the video it's impossible to tell if that noise is from the engine, or something loose on the frame.
 

AGSTS

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That's true, but listening closely while riding and trying to pin point the location seems much more difficult. Would shifting into gear while on the lift work? Engine would not spin down as fast, but there would also be no weight on the wheels.
 

AGSTS

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So I went for a ride this morning and the noise isn’t there anymore. Tried to replicate it in the same conditions, nothing. Just the regular sound from my first post.
 

turbodan

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The last time I had a cam chain tensioner fail it usually made noise when warm and not at all consistently. I imagine it would get worse and more frequent if you let it deteriorate further.

I think the actual replacement procedure is a bit more involved but I just removed the tensioner and installed the new one. Worked great. It seems possible that the chain could slip a tooth and allow the cams out of time during this process but I have never heard of it happening.
 

AGSTS

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I read most of CCT replacement threads here, all of which mentioned securing the chain once CCT is out to prevent jumping a tooth. Will definitely do that. New CCT is ordered and should arrive soon (I hope).
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I read most of CCT replacement threads here, all of which mentioned securing the chain once CCT is out to prevent jumping a tooth. Will definitely do that. New CCT is ordered and should arrive soon (I hope).
Correct, just a "safety" precaution...

Zip tying the chain, with the CCT cover off, guarantees' no chain slippage..
 

AGSTS

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Well, I finally got the Morgan Carbtune today. Did the TB sync only at idle now, but holding revs at 4k yields similar readings on all tubes. Only interesting thing is that two screws had to be bottomed out to reach even readings, is this normal? Could it be that this bike had TB sync before and someone messed with the reference cylinder screw? I followed the service manual instructions and left top left screw alone.

Going for a ride now to see if vibs are decreased.
 

AGSTS

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Wow, what a difference! Low rpm vibs are all but gone. From 4k and up, they appear again, so I’ll get on the other suggestions you pointed out earlier.
 

turbodan

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As I understand it, the sync adjustment is relative to the other cylinders. You can probably get back into the range of adjustment if you run them all out a little further and then dial it back in. Adjusting idle speed will probably be necessary afterward.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The base screw is usually about 3/4's a turn out, do you know what your base screw is set at?

And yes, the other screws should NOT be set fully in. I'd check and re-set the base screw and re-adjust all to that.

.
 

AGSTS

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Okay, so I wanted to remove the crash bars to see if they are contributing to the vibrations. Sadly, both hex bolts (one on each side) which screw into the frame (remember, my bike is a naked FZ6, pretty common here in Europe) seems to be spinning without any resistance and I cannot remove it. Any suggestions? Drill it out?
IMG_0343.jpeg

Also I could not remove the top engine mounting (hex I believe) bolts - they're so tight that my simple L shaped key did not have enough leverage to crack any of those bolts free. Tried soaking in WD40 for 10 minutes or so, sprayed some more and left it to sit throughout the night.
1620326084457.png
 

Gary in NJ

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Yeah, those little L-shaped hex wrenches are mostly useless. You can try turning them with the box end of a wrench for additional leverage...but nothing beats a proper 3/8 drive set (I also have them in 1/4 drive).

The one that just spins...see if there is enough room to get a flat blade screw driver behind it, and increase the leverage as you turn the hex head.
 

AGSTS

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Probably will just buy hex head for my wrench.
Will try to use a flathead screwdriver too, thanks for the tips Gary.
 
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