Santa brought me a new bow instead, I've been spending all of my free time stalking deer.
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Front caliper bolts stuck
- Thread starter david323
- Start date
Just sprayed some PB blaster on them. Will let it sit overnight and try to remove them tomorrow. Should I be worried about PB overspray? I wiped off what I could but should I really need to make sure to get it off anything?
Carlos840
Junior Member
I would clean it all with brake cleaner just to be sure.
Better safe than sorry when it comes to brakes!
If you buy cheap tools in smaller sizes, 12pt have more places to flex and/or break. Flexing leads to rounded bolts and sometimes a box end wrench can fit better than a cheap skcket. Point: if its stuck, use what fits best so you dont damage anything. But clearly 1/4" is not adequate for the job.
A sharp smack with a hammer to a brass driver loosens stuck fasteners. Using brass to deliver the impact will reduce head damage so pick one up if you can.
A sharp smack with a hammer to a brass driver loosens stuck fasteners. Using brass to deliver the impact will reduce head damage so pick one up if you can.
Got craftsman so if I break another they'll replace it. Any suggestions on getting around the reflectors? Pretty sure I bent them out of the way last time...
The one I shattered was a 6 point.
The one I shattered was a 6 point.
Just throwing this out there, but have you thought of using an air tool? Impact sockets are 6 pt and will bite on the offending fastener. I have a pancake air compressor for my nail guns and some inexpensive air tools from Lowes. They won't break loose a front wheel bearing (on a cage), but can help loosen a stubborn bolt/nut on a strut. 
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There should be a 8mm head bolt(or nut) on the back of the reflector, just un-screw that and it'll come off. You'll then have full acess to the bolts..:thumbup:
Re the PB blaster, use brake cleaner on the rotors. If any doubt some got on the pads, remove those as well and again, brake cleaner and scrub them with a tooth brush to get them spotless.
A quick scruff on the pads on a SMOOTH SIDEWALK, will remove any glazing and smooth them out (it doesn't take much)
Last edited:
Koozi
Junior Member
Quick horror story about front caliper bolts.
I am doing an on-going, semi restoration on a buddies mid 90's zx6 ninja. Got it running but the brakes dragged so it was "replace the pads it'll be fine" time.
The caliper bolts were already round--a bad sign.
Big vice grips--fail. Chisel and gentle taps to break it free--fail.
Knowing the bolts were never going to be used again I cut a flat head screw driver style groove in the bolt head hoping the heat would free them up when I tried the chisel trick again. Fail.
Time to go all out. I cut the heads off with an angle grinder only to find out you still cannot get the caliper because what's left of the bolts won't allow the caliper to come out with the tire still on.
No problem...take off the front tire. 15mm allen on one side, 12 on the other. No chance, locked tighter than...well you know. Ended up with a breaker bar on one side and a 4ft cheater bar on the other to break that free.
Of course the tire doesn't come off with the calipers still in place. mumble mumble mumble.
Remove the other side caliper, slide the tire around, still no go.
Pulled the 4 bolts holding the 2 pieces of the caliper together and finally, just enough room to slide the inner side out, allowing the outer part to move enough to clear the use-to-be bolts that are now studs from the forks. Finally one caliper in my hand.
Not sure why I shared all this.
But I sure do hope your job goes a whole lot easier.
I am doing an on-going, semi restoration on a buddies mid 90's zx6 ninja. Got it running but the brakes dragged so it was "replace the pads it'll be fine" time.
The caliper bolts were already round--a bad sign.
Big vice grips--fail. Chisel and gentle taps to break it free--fail.
Knowing the bolts were never going to be used again I cut a flat head screw driver style groove in the bolt head hoping the heat would free them up when I tried the chisel trick again. Fail.
Time to go all out. I cut the heads off with an angle grinder only to find out you still cannot get the caliper because what's left of the bolts won't allow the caliper to come out with the tire still on.
No problem...take off the front tire. 15mm allen on one side, 12 on the other. No chance, locked tighter than...well you know. Ended up with a breaker bar on one side and a 4ft cheater bar on the other to break that free.
Of course the tire doesn't come off with the calipers still in place. mumble mumble mumble.
Remove the other side caliper, slide the tire around, still no go.
Pulled the 4 bolts holding the 2 pieces of the caliper together and finally, just enough room to slide the inner side out, allowing the outer part to move enough to clear the use-to-be bolts that are now studs from the forks. Finally one caliper in my hand.
Not sure why I shared all this.
But I sure do hope your job goes a whole lot easier.
Success! Getting those reflectors out of the way made all the difference, and with the overnight soak in PB they came right off, no struggle at all. The caliper pins were all gummed up, but the pistons were just dusty and after a good scrubbing pressed back into the caliper with my fingers (no c clamp needed). Cleaned the pads and scraped them on the sidewalk. After greasing and reassembling I spun the front and got almost 2.5 rotations! It wouldn't spin 1/4 turn before. Went for a spin and as soon as I lifted the kickstand it was rolling backwards as I park on a very slight incline. No more audible rubbing and the decel when closing the throttle is much less than before. Thanks everyone for the advice.
I also found the broken socket (see pic).
I also found the broken socket (see pic).
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Great job! Your MPG's should go up a little too! :thumbup:
8mm 12pt (haha) from the back..... Why they did that is beyond me. Coulda easily cleared the bolts.
JMO - not seeing the beni of dragging the pads on the walkway. You risk embedding fine hard abrasives in the material and then scoring the rotor. Same is true of using sand paper as the silica comes off and sticks to the soft pad.
Please do inspect them for foreign matter should this be done.
Also, if not replacing, be sure to return them to the exact location or they'll have to be reseated and form new groves in new places. Could take a 50+ miles for this...
Please do inspect them for foreign matter should this be done.
Also, if not replacing, be sure to return them to the exact location or they'll have to be reseated and form new groves in new places. Could take a 50+ miles for this...
Hit em with brake cleaner and the toothbrush a second time after scraping them. They went back on the same place they came off.
