Front Caliper Bolts Help!

[Xavias]

Hey all, so here's the story:

I'm trying to get my wheels off for a little project I'm doing (and some deep cleaning )

I was able to get the pinch bolt out of the front fork, then get the large nut off the rear for the axle.... but....

I tried removing the caliper bolts for the front brakes and got the first one (top bolt, left side) with a little muscle. Came to the 2nd one and the wrench moved but the bolt wasn't. So while trying to get it off without stripping it anymore, I decided to get a socket and throw that on there. Tried hammering it on to make sure it was snug, and then tapping the handle of the socket wrench with the hammer to loosen it. Still nothing.

My question is, what is safe and/or would work to loosen the caliper bolts up? A punch? Some sort of penetrating lubricant?

The other option is that these were installed from the dealer when I had them put new rubber on last summer. They probably weren't torqued to spec. Should I just call the dealership and ask them to re-torque them to spec?

Thanks!
- Xav

 

[darius]

Came to the 2nd one and the wrench moved but the bolt wasn't. So while trying to get it off without stripping it anymore, I decided to get a socket and throw that on there. Tried hammering it on to make sure it was snug, and then tapping the handle of the socket wrench with the hammer to loosen it. Still nothing.

Put the hammer away and don't use wrenches! :spank: Sounds like you rounded off the bolt head a bit. You should be able to see this.

Instead use a quality 6 point socket socket on a 1/2" wrench/ratchet and you should be able to get it off pushing down.

I doubt you'll need liquid wrench, but if you use it, don't get it on the bolt head. If the bolt appears damaged at all, replace it. G/L.

 

[Xavias]

I definitely rounded off the head a little bit. Not too much that it shouldn't be able to get off. I did use a quality socket (after the wrench) and still couldn't get it off.

 

[lawlberg]

I definitely rounded off the head a little bit. Not too much that it shouldn't be able to get off. I did use a quality socket (after the wrench) and still couldn't get it off.

Sounds like you just can't get it to 'Brake' free Blah



I've got nothing more to add here, I'll take my bad pun and leave.

 

[greg]

I've found penetrating fluids do very little

The bolts are quite big, so I doubt they will shear off (unlike the sliding pins on the 1st gen FZ6). Not sure you will be able to use heat due to the location, I wonder if freezing them would help?

I'd recommend the use of copper grease once you free them.

 

[darius]

I definitely rounded off the head a little bit. Not too much that it shouldn't be able to get off. I did use a quality socket (after the wrench) and still couldn't get it off.

Right ok so it's not stripped, it's just slightly rounded off. It's a good idea to replace it.

To get it off you're going to need more leverage, especially if you're just using a little 3/8" ratchet. Hit it with the liquid wrench before using anything seriously long.

 

[Xavias]

Right ok so it's not stripped, it's just slightly rounded off. It's a good idea to replace it.

To get it off you're going to need more leverage, especially if you're just using a little 3/8" ratchet. Hit it with the liquid wrench before using anything seriously long.

I think that's the route I'm going to go. I'm going to call the dealership on lunch and see what they suggest as well. Probably hit it with PB blaster before I do anything. I'll be replacing the bolts and torquing them to spec myself this time.

I do want to point out that these are the Caliper MOUNTING bolts.

Shown here:

 

[Erci]

I think that's the route I'm going to go. I'm going to call the dealership on lunch and see what they suggest as well. Probably hit it with PB blaster before I do anything. I'll be replacing the bolts and torquing them to spec myself this time.

I do want to point out that these are the Caliper MOUNTING bolts.

Shown here:

As I mentioned on FB, before you spray them, cover up pads and rotors.

 

[Xavias]

That's the plan. Here's hoping it works...

 

[mike_v]

This may seem obvious- but did you take the reflector off to get better access to the bolt.

 

[david323]

I had the same issue a few months ago. PB Blaster worked for me.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/51470-front-caliper-bolts-stuck.html

 

[Xavias]

I had the same issue a few months ago. PB Blaster worked for me.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/51470-front-caliper-bolts-stuck.html

Awesome, thanks! I'll give it a try then! Did you let it sit overnight or something?

 

[yamihoe]

freezing it or gentle heat..
definitely take the pads out before you spray it!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Invest (or borrow) in one of these hand held impact tools:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impact-driver/p-00947641000P

You can use some of your penetrant, then get a socket, preferably a 6 pt, not necessarilly the original size (slightly smaller and hammer it on (don't beat it to death, you just want it tight enough NOT to spin). If its still sloppy, get some thin sheet metal, trim it to fit as a shim and install the socket with the shim taking up any gaps.. It just needs to be snug..

Put your hand held impact tool on it. Between the shock of the tool and the socket being tight, it should break loose without too big an issue..

A 6 pt socket gives you a little more surface area with the bolt vs a 12 pt which would be more likely to strip...

 

[FinalImpact]

This may seem obvious- but did you take the reflector off to get better access to the bolt.

+1 ^^

[MENTION=17912]Xavias[/MENTION], is that your bike and was the reflector removed? Its like an 8mm from the inside IIRC. With it out of the way access is much improved. I'm guessing it was a random pic...

Not often does one find 6 point box end long handle wrenches, but if you have them tap on it with a good 40 oz hammer, it will move. I suggest this as ratchets have flex before the internals lock. A wrench does not.

This is the whole dissimilar metal thing going on, they seem to fuse together. I recall using Medium Blue Loctite once. That was really unnecessary!

 

[darius]

Here's what I use for these bolts. It's simply a short breaker bar / socket handle w/ a 3/8" adapter for the 12mm 6 pt.

Duralast/1/2 in. drive 10 in. breaker bar (72-122) | Breaker Bar Tool | AutoZone.com

 

[Xavias]

Thanks all for the advice! I'm going to try some of your ideas tonight. (Wasn't home at all last night.)

Side note: That was not a picture of my bike, just one I found online to show which bolts I was talking about.

I'm thinking a shot of PB blaster and a tiiiiiiiiiiight fitting socket is going to be the way to go. (I believe we have one of those smaller breaker bars as well so that might be an option too)

I'll let you guys know what I find out.

Thanks!

 

[david323]

Awesome, thanks! I'll give it a try then! Did you let it sit overnight or something?

Yes, overnight. They spun right off with minimal effort after that.

 

[shannim]

Will WD-40 be as effective as PB Blaster? My caliper bolts are also on real tight and I actually sheered a socket adapter (admittedly, I used the smaller of my two sockets) the last time I tried to take my calipers off. At that point I gave up. Are you guys spraying it on the back side of the caliper (I think it is a through hole) or where the head of the bolt meets the caliper?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Will WD-40 be as effective as PB Blaster? My caliper bolts are also on real tight and I actually sheered a socket adapter (admittedly, I used the smaller of my two sockets) the last time I tried to take my calipers off. At that point I gave up. Are you guys spraying it on the back side of the caliper (I think it is a through hole) or where the head of the bolt meets the caliper?

IMO, PB blaster would work better.

Your pulling the pads anyway, cover the disc the best you can (get some brake cleaner to clean it again BEFORE re-assembly) and spray where ever you can get to the theads.

Some anti-sieze or better yet, a dab of brake specific grease on the hardware before assembly will make it much easier next time. :thumbup: