Fuel indicator blinking empty always

[Sup3er]

Regardless of how filled up the tank is, it keeps blinking empty on the display monitor. Tried to trouble shoot the cables connected to the tank but no success. Any ideas??

 

[snackwrap]

I have this same problem. I bought my bike used (07) and the guy I bought it from told me he damaged the wire going into the gas tank. So for me it always blinks empty. Through quick searches I found it will cost about $600 to replace, screw that. Just be careful when lifting up the gas tank. That is how mine got ruined. I will checking in on this post to see if anyone has a cheaper solution because I would like to fix mine as well!

 

[FinalImpact]

It sounds like the wires are pulled out of the connector. In this electrical section is a sticky for places to order parts and in the tech section a how to troubleshoot and repair. Its very likely you both need some short sections of wire and proper crimp connectors. Take a look here.

FUEL TANK, FUEL PUMP, AND FUEL GAUGE

The black wires are common ground to both the pump motor and fuel gauge. They should measure as a short or Zero ohms between them (see white and green connectors). Look at that thread, post up if ya need a hand.

 

[EricS23]

It sounds like the wires are pulled out of the connector. In this electrical section is a sticky for places to order parts and in the tech section a how to troubleshoot and repair. Its very likely you both need some short sections of wire and proper crimp connectors. Take a look here.

FUEL TANK, FUEL PUMP, AND FUEL GAUGE

The black wires are common ground to both the pump motor and fuel gauge. They should measure as a short or Zero ohms between them (see white and green connectors). Look at that thread, post up if ya need a hand.

I have the same Problem... First sorry for my excellent english

I try to do the same like Brandob1987 in
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/45636-fuel-gauge-stays-reserve.html
I Controlled the red wire on the green connector, but i cant find a defect. Is it possible to disassemble this connector and check out the contact?

Then i measure the recistant on the pin White connector/ green wire to Black directly under the Tank, with the result of extremly higher than 150 Ohm. Normaly, when the float Arm has en defect and remain on a Minimum, the recistance Must be 139 -149 Ohm, Right?
http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=579362&postcount=2

 

[FinalImpact]

I have the same Problem... First sorry for my excellent english

I try to do the same like Brandob1987 in
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/45636-fuel-gauge-stays-reserve.html
I Controlled the red wire on the green connector, but i cant find a defect. Is it possible to disassemble this connector and check out the contact?

Then i measure the recistant on the pin White connector/ green wire to Black directly under the Tank, with the result of extremly higher than 150 Ohm. Normaly, when the float Arm has en defect and remain on a Minimum, the recistance Must be 139 -149 Ohm, Right?
http://www.600riders.com/forum/showpost.php?p=579362&postcount=2

Fuel sender resistance (full)
19–21 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
Fuel sender resistance (empty)
139–141 Ω at 20°C (68°F)

So, if the tank is near level and you guessed on the fuel it should register between 20 & 140 Ω. Example: with a 1/2 tank ~~ 80 ohms....

Touch your test leads together and SUBTRACT the value of the shorted leads. Most would read less than 1.0 Ohm. But if yours reads 8 ohms while your meters test leads are shorted, you subtract that from the measured value.
149 - 8 = 141 ohms which would be normal.

Look at this: RED is for PUMP - NOT Fuel meter...

If you need to test the Bikes harness, grab a couple of RESISTORS like in this thread. FUEL TANK, FUEL PUMP, AND FUEL GAUGE Post #2

 

[EricS23]

Fuel sender resistance (full)
19–21 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
Fuel sender resistance (empty)
139–141 Ω at 20°C (68°F)

So, if the tank is near level and you guessed on the fuel it should register between 20 & 140 Ω. Example: with a 1/2 tank ~~ 60 ohms....

Touch your test leads together and SUBTRACT the value of the shorted leads. Most would read less than 1.0 Ohm. But if yours reads 8 ohms while your meters test leads are shorted, you subtract that from the measured value.
149 - 8 = 141 ohms which would be normal.

Look at this: RED is for PUMP - NOT Fuel meter...

If you need to test the Bikes harness, grab a couple of RESISTORS like in this thread. FUEL TANK, FUEL PUMP, AND FUEL GAUGE Post #2

A Friend give me an fuel pump with floater to Test it on my Bike. I measured the resistance directly on the floater and on Position "full" it Shows 19,5 Ohm. That' s ok but on Position "empty" i measured 45 Ohm ? What can I Do? Has the floatet an defect?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Has the floatet an defect?

Probably NOT your issue however, the float itself, on rare occassions, has come off of the float arm. Obviously, if it does, the arm falls to the bottom and will always give you an empty reading.

Pulling the tank and flipping it over to see if the float is actually on the arm would eliminate this possibilty..

Good luck..

 

[EricS23]

Probably NOT your issue however, the float itself, on rare occassions, has come off of the float arm. Obviously, if it does, the arm falls to the bottom and will always give you an empty reading.

Pulling the tank and flipping it over to see if the float is actually on the arm would eliminate this possibilty..

Good luck..

Thank you for your Support.

I removed the fuel sensor from the Tank and saw that the board has a defect. I replace the complete fuel Sensor by a new. Thats it.

I think it is because of the long standstill in Winter but just a guess from me.

Tank you.:cheer:

 

[FinalImpact]

Thank you for your Support.

I removed the fuel sensor from the Tank and saw that the board has a defect. I replace the complete fuel Sensor by a new. Thats it.

I think it is because of the long standstill in Winter but just a guess from me.

Tank you.:cheer:

Are you saying the variable resistor show here was damaged?

Can you shoot a good picture of it so we can add some details to the other thread?

Thanks!

 

[neildyr]

Great sticky.
My harness and connector are all working perfectly. I input a variable resistor and tracked the fuel level on the display. I then checked the resistance from the Male pins on the tank and measured 7.3K Ohms!! So im fairly certain it is the variable arm sensor is shot/stuck or out of place within the tank. Befor I take out the fuel pump, Can the sensor be replaced or is the whole pump mechanism need replacing. Or is there a way to manipulate the arm through the filler cap?

Thanks

 

[FinalImpact]

Great sticky.
My harness and connector are all working perfectly. I input a variable resistor and tracked the fuel level on the display. I then checked the resistance from the Male pins on the tank and measured 7.3K Ohms!! So im fairly certain it is the variable arm sensor is shot/stuck or out of place within the tank. Befor I take out the fuel pump, Can the sensor be replaced or is the whole pump mechanism need replacing. Or is there a way to manipulate the arm through the filler cap?

Thanks

^^ Thanks!

The assembly is sold as a unit for pretty penny. So, small parts are not available. I can't say for certain, but I'd guess "that part" the resistive sensor is likely the same across many models. But as stated, the float may be off and its sitting lower. Although I'd like to think the stops would prevent this from happening.

FWIW: if you search for Denso Fuel pump (like so), its not just Yamaha these pumps are in. There are several others using the same basic assembly whether its returnless or return type - the pump, housing, and structure are near identical. So keep that in mind.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Once the pump is un-bolted from the tank, its much easier to remove the sending unit from the pump INSIDE the tank. It re-installs as ONE UNIT. They are TWO SEPARATE UNITS but can only be bought new as one. You may be able to find a used sending unit (if needed)

With the below pic's and arrow's, it'll help separate the two while in the tank.

Once out of the tank, you can see if the float is off the arm..

 

[neildyr]

Thanks you very much both of you.Great info. Should be able to tackle said job once iv a quiet saturday. Id say Ill get a whole unit save a few headaches. Ill see whats causing 7k ohms first as there is continuity so could be some debris, who knows!!.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your welcome...:thumbup:

Please post what the problem / fix was once repaired.

And IF you replace the pump, SAVE IT(if the pump itself is good and filter clean) , they are known to fail and are rare on the used parts market.

 

[FinalImpact]

You might post up in the Parts Wanted section as more often than not, rust kills someones pump motor while the sender is still good. So perhaps have some spare parts just in case?

Mind you the new assembly is over $350 but the pump motor can be replaced. Its a standard motor/pump used in many applications.

That said, rust in the tank and on the wiper could damage the sensor....
Also - tks for the Rep point! Much appreciated!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Cancel, already addressed earlier...

Admin, please feel free to delete this post.