FZ6 Crancase\stator Cover, where to buy for good price and how to install?

Ital · Sep 22, 2016

Hello All,
I bought a 2007 fz6 with 400 miles but has a couple of blemishes that I would like to address. By far the worse one is the Crancase\Stator Cover is scuffed up and I would like to replace it. I found a few on ebay for around $40 or so but I am not sure if they are any good or OEM. This is the crankcase cover on the left side of the bike where you shift.

Also once I do get the cover do I need to drain the oil or anything or can I just unbolt it and bolt the new one on?

Thank you so much!!!

Ohendo · Sep 22, 2016

New (Genuine Yamaha Parts) they're about $85, at least from my quick research on RonAyers and Partzilla.
$40 is a good price if it's the right part (36P-15411-01-00).

Ital · Sep 22, 2016

this is the one I am looking at, but not sure about the quality...
Aluminum Motorcycle Stator Cover Fit Yamaha 2004 2010 FZ6 Engine Crank Case New | eBay

would i need to replace the gasket or can I use the old one?

The bike has about 1100 miles now. Thanks

FinalImpact · Sep 22, 2016

I would be hesitant. 04 - 10? Bikes were made until 2009. Early ones are mostly silver. As I have seen it, Yamaha does not paint machined surfaces. So it may not be a repackaged part. Again, I would be hesitant. Maybe its fine but if it is not, any savings will be lost.

Yes. A new yamaha gasket. They make high quality materials. No point in skimping here.

Ital · Sep 22, 2016

Thanks for the help. I ended up buying this one:
New 2009 2012 Yamaha FZ6R FZ 6R Stator Case Cover w Gasket 36P 15411 01 00 | eBay

how about installation do you guys know? do I need to drain any oil?

Thank you

FinalImpact · Sep 22, 2016

Ohendo · Sep 22, 2016

The part should fit. Appears that 36P-15411-01-00 is the replacement part for both our bikes and the FZ6R.
From Ron Ayers:

FinalImpact · Sep 22, 2016

Gotta admit it seems stupid to change it for the same basic engine. No doubt there.
Boats.net didnt show that... just posted as they were different. I bet they fit, lets see!

TownsendsFJR1300 · Sep 23, 2016

Installing the cover:

Put the bike in the center stand. You don't have to remove the oil but you will get a little drip-age.

When I replaced mine (twice), I didn't un-plug and simply put a sturdy stool next to bike.

Remove all the obvious bolts and pull the cover. There's a little starter gear that'll probably fall out. It simply goes back in in the 2 o'clock position.

With the stator cover now upside down on your STURDY stool, you'll need a GOOD set (Craftsman is fine) of torx bits a rachet and either a heat gun or small, intense heating source.

There's three bolts (torx) holding on the stator, one holding on a wire retainer. Yamaha uses some SUPER HEAVY DUTY LOCTITE that you'll use the heat to break loose.

Heat the aluminum closest to the screw "too hot to touch", then take the torx and ratchet to it, working quickly. It will still be tight.

Another hand to hold the cover so you don't bugger up the head wouldn't hurt..

Re-peat for all 4 screws total.

Clean the gasket surfaces (I stuff a rag behind where I'm working to keep old gasket pieces out of the crankcase) as well as the screws spotless..

Re-install the stator and retainer (Exactly how you pulled the retainer out-no chaffing) using RED loctite.

Where the wires from the stator and rubber boot go thru the case, you'll need a sealer, recommended is Yamabond #4. You'll see where it was applied previously. Clean that away before adding new sealer (it is kinda messy).

Install your new gasket, sealer and aim the cover as the magnets going to grab it from you. Make sure your gasket is lined up correctly and torque to spec, going in a criss-cross pattern.

Stator screw torque-7.2 ft lbs
Cover bolts, torque-7.2 ft lbs

Sealer AKA:
Yamaha bond No. 1215
90890-85505
(Three Bond No.1215®)

Admin, if not already posted somewhere, feel free to "sticky"

.

Ital · Sep 23, 2016

Thanks for the details step by step, very much appreciated. I do have a really good set of Torx bits, I have some blue loctite, but I will make sure to get some red and I will buy the Yamabond #4.
Its a bit more complicated that I was thinking but I should be able to handle it, I will probably do it once the riding season is over and I may hire some side help (Handy Andy) and do the plugs and cover all at once, Hopefully a hair dryer will work as that is the only heat source i have

also I was able to get both gasket and cover for about $81 shipped. It seems these were a lot cheaper a few years ago :/

TownsendsFJR1300 · Sep 23, 2016

Its really not hard to do at all, maybe an hours work total...

I just went into full detail especially about the loctite. I don't know if a hair drier will be enough and you DON'T want to bugger up the heads or
you'll be waiting for new ones..With the heat gun on low, maybe 12 seconds at the aluminum base where the bolts go in. A small propane torch would be plenty as well, just intense heat to loosen the locktite. Re-assembly, piece of cake..

I still have the original bolts and besides my two changes, it was changed once before that (PO).

Heck, I have two spare covers now. I sanded the scruffs out and just need to repaint...

Ital · Sep 23, 2016

I actually do have a torch but I thought the oil would catch on fire or something... I'll give that a shot.. Thanks!

Ital · Sep 23, 2016

Scott, does the red loctite need to be heat resistant? The heat resistant one is crazy expensive... thanks

TownsendsFJR1300 · Sep 24, 2016

The red is good for temps WAY above what those bolts/cover will see.

I've had to heat (to remove) those bolts when I used RED previously, with a heat gun, so no, they won't go anywhere... One drop on CLEAN THREADS and hole is plenty..

Just as a side note.
A 2 stroke weed-eater I was repairing, (high idle, leaning out) has two bolts that hold the cylinder to the block (aluminum)
(the two bolts like to loosen up even with a new gasket and torqued down). Cleaned the bolts, holes, RED loctite (liberally in THIS case).
Let it set up overnight. Still holding fine. A lazer temp gun showed temps on the block where the bolts attach (as I re-call) around mid 200's. Now that's an air cooled engine ONLY, no crankcase oil, no water cooling, 9,000 RPMs regularly.

kriSR · Oct 2, 2016

Ital said:
a few on ebay for around $40 or so but I am not sure if they are any good or OEM. This is the crankcase cover on the left side of the bike where you shift.
Also once I do get the cover do I need to drain the oil or anything or can I just unbolt it and bolt the new one on?

Yeap, eBay is probably the first where we look for. That's good that you've received the instruction from TownsendsFJR1300, it's great and detailed.
I can add only that if you wanna search for the stator in online stores, you can use Parts.fo, that's the search among on-line store offers.

TownsendsFJR1300 · Oct 2, 2016

Just a side note, IF your looking for a used cover, I have TWO I'm looking to get rid of.

Both have kissed the concrete driveway, (0 MPH tip overs), have been sanded down so there are no more visible scratches
BUT do need paint. Off my 07.

PM me and I can send some pic's, figure out shipping etc.

(about $40 plus actual shipping)

FZ6 Crancase\stator Cover, where to buy for good price and how to install?

Ital

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Ohendo

Ital

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FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone

Ital

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FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone

Ohendo

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6

Ital

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TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6

Ital

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Ital

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TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6

kriSR

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TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6

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