valkesz
Junior Member
[video=youtube;4eqK6HOyqa8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4eqK6HOyqa8&feature=youtu.be[/video]
what is the problem?
what is the problem?
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Are you raising the throttle??
A little more (actually a lot more) info would be EXTREMLY HELPFUL...
The 800 RPM idle variance isn't bad, Could be better..
Have you ever done a throttle sync on the engine? Miles on engine, If high, valves checked?
A little more (actually a lot more) info would be EXTREMLY HELPFUL...
The 800 RPM idle variance isn't bad, Could be better..
Have you ever done a throttle sync on the engine? Miles on engine, If high, valves checked?
Zealot
The Village Idiot
There's something really loud and tappy there. Makes me wonder if that (valves?) is a large part of why your revs are flying all over the place.
SandyN
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After reading this I checked mine. While cold, no problems. But when warm sounds similar. I also think mine has a slight miss! !
My first thought is throttle body sync as I last did it 12,000 km ago.
I have also had a wierd situation about a month ago when the motor backfired while starting it on a cold morning. Since then it idled a lot higher and there is a slight rattle which was not there before.
Will report again once tb sync done.
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My first thought is throttle body sync as I last did it 12,000 km ago.
I have also had a wierd situation about a month ago when the motor backfired while starting it on a cold morning. Since then it idled a lot higher and there is a slight rattle which was not there before.
Will report again once tb sync done.
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You may want to check your spark plug caps (Finalimpact has several threads on them) loosening up with the spark plug wires..
causing rough running..
causing rough running..
SandyN
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I checked my valve clearances at 36,000 km and they were all still within spec. I changed the plugs after the backfire as they had done over 18,000 km. The bike still pulls like a train with very little other unusual vibration, hence my initial feeling is Throttle Body Sync.
Checking on Fuelly, the fuel consumption has gone up a little as it normally does in winter (plus I've been "enjoying" my rides a lot!). I also do about 4 km a day inside the factory where I work, at the speed limit of 20 km/h, and I've noticed that the bike does not jerk in 2nd at this speed as it did in the summer, which induces the theory that it is running richer due to the colder air. To me, this again points to TB sync as the air/fuel ratio may be a little off.
I'll have to wait and see till after the sync.
Checking on Fuelly, the fuel consumption has gone up a little as it normally does in winter (plus I've been "enjoying" my rides a lot!). I also do about 4 km a day inside the factory where I work, at the speed limit of 20 km/h, and I've noticed that the bike does not jerk in 2nd at this speed as it did in the summer, which induces the theory that it is running richer due to the colder air. To me, this again points to TB sync as the air/fuel ratio may be a little off.
I'll have to wait and see till after the sync.
FWIW: The spark plug caps have never resulted in driveablity complaints. Not like that.
Four things come to mind, two stated earlier.
1) Your valves need adjustment, they are the TAP TAP TAP sound.
2) ^^ Once that is done, a TB sync.
3) check your battery and the connections. Maybe even throw a volt meter across the battery and verify the off, idle, and running voltage. Your gauge cluster indicates the system voltage has some variation.
4) Check the spark plugs and or replace them. Excessive gap from wear can lead to the hesitation as its not able to burn the fuel with worn or damaged plugs.
Four things come to mind, two stated earlier.
1) Your valves need adjustment, they are the TAP TAP TAP sound.
2) ^^ Once that is done, a TB sync.
3) check your battery and the connections. Maybe even throw a volt meter across the battery and verify the off, idle, and running voltage. Your gauge cluster indicates the system voltage has some variation.
4) Check the spark plugs and or replace them. Excessive gap from wear can lead to the hesitation as its not able to burn the fuel with worn or damaged plugs.
valkesz
Junior Member
My bike 36.000km.
Valve check done.
Battery 12.7V
Spark plugs CR9EIX iridium
Injector cleaning done
No fault code
TB sync weekend
and no good..
sorry little english
Valve check done.
Battery 12.7V
Spark plugs CR9EIX iridium
Injector cleaning done
No fault code
TB sync weekend
and no good..
sorry little english
SandyN
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Took time to listen to my motor again today; my revs at idle and on opening the throttle match yours exactly - the slight variance and the "stutter". My theory is that, because the motor is not under load, as you get to the "no load" condition at the throttle opening, the ECU cuts the fuel and then gives more to maintain the revs and cycles like that.
However, mine has developed that irritating (to me) little rattle, and the more I think of it I come up with the conclusion that it may be due to the cam chain tensioner not working properly since that backfire a month ago. It was a "pop" and "wheeze" as if the fuel had ignited but the gasses could not escape. This may have hurt the CCT.
My other thought is that a variance in idle speed could be caused by a loose timing chain if the CCT is not applying the correct pressure at idle but is OK under load. Having said that, I've had the same variance in the idle speed on my bike since I got it at 11,000km so I don't think there is anything wrong with yours.
My next move is to check the CCT for correct operation before I do a TB sync to see if it makes a difference.
However, mine has developed that irritating (to me) little rattle, and the more I think of it I come up with the conclusion that it may be due to the cam chain tensioner not working properly since that backfire a month ago. It was a "pop" and "wheeze" as if the fuel had ignited but the gasses could not escape. This may have hurt the CCT.
My other thought is that a variance in idle speed could be caused by a loose timing chain if the CCT is not applying the correct pressure at idle but is OK under load. Having said that, I've had the same variance in the idle speed on my bike since I got it at 11,000km so I don't think there is anything wrong with yours.
My next move is to check the CCT for correct operation before I do a TB sync to see if it makes a difference.
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Just an FYI.
Here is a video of my bike(dead cold start) documenting the voltages; https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/15053644500/
For this thread, you can get an idea of how much the RPM's vary at any given RPM...(at least NO load running)
The entire thread is here (if interested) from last year;
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/53963-fz6-rpms-vs-voltages-video.html
Here is a video of my bike(dead cold start) documenting the voltages; https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/15053644500/
For this thread, you can get an idea of how much the RPM's vary at any given RPM...(at least NO load running)
The entire thread is here (if interested) from last year;
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-electrical/53963-fz6-rpms-vs-voltages-video.html
SandyN
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Valkesz, you'll notice a slight stutter in the above video at about 0:55 at 2,000 rpm as well; personally, I don't think you have a problem with yours.
^^ you have the main cat after the header still or no?
I noticed that after ditching it, it rev'd much quicker and w/out hesitation. Hence the next step of S1 header to S2 chassis. Then the ignition advance and ya, throttle response is much improved now!
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Yep, original CATs, AIR pump still there too.
The engine was started dead cold (for that video), and never warmed up fully in that short time span, but it rev's very fast, even cold.
I can't complain about throttle response at all. It'll pull from as low as 2k in any gear (I usually shift around 5k) without bucking, hesitation, smoothly.
Heck it can idle in first gear W/O clutching, on flat ground, with my 200 lbs on it at 1,100 RPM, smooth, no bucking, etc.. (I did that once or twice just for S&G's)
** I did replace the battery since that video, no more "dash blank outs" when cranking either..
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My bike 36.000km.
Valve check done.
Battery 12.7V
Spark plugs CR9EIX iridium
Injector cleaning done
No fault code
TB sync weekend
and no good..
sorry little english
You say the valve check was done, I guess I have to question why it makes the TAP TAP TAP from the engine. It sounds like at least a couple of the valves are too loose and making that sound. Like they may be out of specification. but IDK... That's what it sounds like. JM2C
Also - check the battery voltage at idle and say 4000 RPM. I want to know why your dash flickers so much!
valkesz
Junior Member
TownsendsFJR1300
Stutter and no little jerking city 3-4k rpm?
Stutter and no little jerking city 3-4k rpm?
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Mine is rock steady in any gear. The RPMs hold steady.
As for pulling - on ride this past weekend there was a huge open stretch. In 6th gear I slowed to about 25mph let it stabilize and twisted the grip to WOT - it pulled up to 1XX no issues. No it wasn't quick but it did it without pinging, detonating, bucking or chugging or anything like that. It was about 90°F that day too.
As for pulling - on ride this past weekend there was a huge open stretch. In 6th gear I slowed to about 25mph let it stabilize and twisted the grip to WOT - it pulled up to 1XX no issues. No it wasn't quick but it did it without pinging, detonating, bucking or chugging or anything like that. It was about 90°F that day too.