fz6 throttle body and tps

[Geok]

he
my fuel guae started to flash 8 times after some searching in google its tps error
i did the d1 thing
values is 16 close 63 wot
but i noticed my throttle bodies not fully open when open the gas
here a video
https://youtu.be/AMIoKgxsuQw

any ideas?

to mention i dont feel any poor idle or any problem mpg is ok as before and the acceleration with any problem

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Your video shows the left side TB butterfly's OPEN MORE than the right side ones @ WOT.

There is an adjustment screw in-between the main two throttle bodies.

*Someone was definitly in there dinking about and screwed that up big time**.


Part #10 is your TPS: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2005/fz6-fz6st/intake-2

It's connected to the RIGHT SIDE TB SHAFT (which ISN'T OPENING fully), thus giving the LOW, 63 reading (should be about 100).


You really need a synchronizing tool to set the TWO TB's back in sync (PHYSICALLY, NOT just the air screws). The TPS reading will then go up as that center synchronizing screw gets them close to each other..



I circled the adjuster in blue that sync's the TB's together:

 

[Motogiro]

If I remember correctly you should see 16 - 100 reading on the tps. I hear a click when opening and closing the throttle bodies. The throttle bodies may be fine but the tps may be bad. That bike doesn't have a physical throttle limiter does it?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If I remember correctly you should see 16 - 100 reading on the tps. I hear a click when opening and closing the throttle bodies. The throttle bodies may be fine but the tps may be bad. That bike doesn't have a physical throttle limiter does it?

The throttle is opening way TOO far (left side at least) to have a limiter, but here's a pic
of one which attaches to the left side for the cables:





I do agree thou, that TPS won't likely change another 40% or so .

 

[Geok]

i cant believe it !!!
just take a look at the bike it has the limited throttle !!!!
in the vehicle license its 98hp with all correct chassis and engine number.
what a weird bike i have
its 2007 model s1 but with o2 sensor and same as s2 header no abs

i bent it did the d1 thing
close 16 open now 101

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Excellent!

I would still have that throttle body MAIN SHAFT ADJUSTED so all butterflys open the same.

Did your flashing light stop?

 

[FinalImpact]

JM2C but the camera angle appears to be introducing parallax thus making it look worse than it is.

Don't mess with the screw just yet. Look for paint up and down the head, spring, and base material. If in line it likely hasn't been changed.

Placing a vacuum gauge to the sync tubes will tell you a lot. The right side would be very low compared to the left.

I wish I could find something like that on my car and get 25% more power! Blah

These are the sync tubes.

 

[Geok]

Excellent!

I would still have that throttle body MAIN SHAFT ADJUSTED so all butterflys open the same.

Did your flashing light stop?

well
its all open at same i guess its the lighting flash and camera angles looks otherwise .

i did a ride now
all i can say is WOW :rockon: and i thought i had 98 hp haha ill go to the dealer to ask how come they selling 98hp bike with a limiter
the fuel guage keep flashing but the bike feels as usual so i dont know

Again Thak you peaple

 

[FinalImpact]

Ha! WOW! :thumbup:

 

[cvalliere]

Excellent!

I would still have that throttle body MAIN SHAFT ADJUSTED so all butterflys open the same.

Did your flashing light stop?

Is it possible to adjust the main shaft on your own? I have this same problem. Cylinder 3 and 4 do not open all the way like cylinder 1 & 2. TPS diagnostic is 17 and 84 AT WOT. When trying to sync throttle bodies, 3&4 were way lower vacuum than 1 & 2.

I’ve attached a photo - is there supposed to be another tiny spring at middle linkage?

Here is a video as well.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The one spring is the throttle return spring- no need to mess with that.

The other, between throttle bodies 2 & 3 is an/the adjustment screw (with a spring around it to keep tension),
(the butterfly's are attached to it).

Adjusting that screw in or out will align (or mis-align) the TB shafts (1 & 2 share a shaft, 3 & 4 share a shaft).

It is NORMALLY NOT TOUCHED/ OR ADJUSTED. However it appears someone has done just that to yours, so that will
need to be addressed.

I'd set the base screw to the normal turn out, about 7/8 CC. Adjust the others all out the same amount (for now).
Then adjust that center, shaft adjuster to get THAT SHAFT AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE.

Then you can adjust, via the air screws, the final settings for each TB.... Spec is to get them within 10mms or each other,
you should be able to get them much closer with some patience.

I've also found that "fine tuning" the air screws at 4,000 RPM's and again at idle helps with any handlebar buzziness.

.



.

 

[cvalliere]

Turns out there is indeed meant to be another small spring here. This solved the imbalance in my butterflies. It was quite a pain to squeeze it back into place. It took me probably 12 tries.

A few weeks ago when I was using Liquid Wrench to loosen my throttle body shaft, I found a tiny spring underneath the throttle bodies and wondered what it was for - I finally found its place!

Now my TPS diagnostic numbers are 17 and 102!

 

[grcamna7]

Following

 

[tuning-forks]

Turns out there is indeed meant to be another small spring here. This solved the imbalance in my butterflies. It was quite a pain to squeeze it back into place. It took me probably 12 tries.

Your first picture shows very well how the 2 sides will not link properly without that spring. Without it, the adjusting screw is doing nothing. Actually, with throttle opened as shown, it's acting as if the screw is turned even more than fully in. And you can see just by the position of the throttle plates how different the 2 sides are:

 

[grcamna7]

Your first picture shows very well how the 2 sides will not link properly without that spring. Without it, the adjusting screw is doing nothing. Actually, with throttle opened as shown, it's acting as if the screw is turned even more than fully in. And you can see just by the position of the throttle plates how different the 2 sides are:
View attachment 93980

Is that screw located between cyls. #2 & #3 ?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That above pic, with the arrow, it APPEARS that the adjustment screw (and spring under it),
SHOULD be on the other side of that "U shaped" tang..

It appears (just looking at the pic) that putting the that screw on the other side WILL sync them
up.

The large spring, to the right is keeping tension to #3. Moving that adjuster screw to the other side
should make the adjustment do-able.

I Don't have any pic's of my FZ in that area..


*On my old (2004) FJR, there were THREE of those adjusters (screw with spring) between the FOUR throttle
bodies... Their NOT supposed to be adjusted. As a side note, over the early years, guys were fine tuning/
adjusting those "TB adjusters" before doing a proper vacuum sync (same as the FZ)


And yes, the arrow points TBs 2 & 3..

 

[Gary in NJ]

Here’s how it’s supposed to look.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Here’s another view with the throttle open 50%.