fz6 Yet another code 19 (solved)

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Okay so yet another code 19 thread. Bike has worked fine for last 2 years with little maintenance admittedly other than oil, chain, tire pressure. Anyways i got code 19 where i get crank but no start. Flashing cel light when cranking. Static cel when key is on. Have read many things. Corroded connectors. Sidestand switch. Faulty ignition(key cylinder). Starter circuit cutout relay. Weak battery. I first suspected the sidestand switch was bad since in diag mode d21 did not change to on or off when cycling the sidestand. The neutral switch in diag mode worked fine. Forget which was d20/21. So before replacing sidestand switch i unplugged it from the harness and did an ohm test and sure enough there is continuity when the stand is up. Not when down. Which is normal? So i figure it must not be the switch. I cleaned connector. No change. i learned that the relay for starter circuit cutout relies on both side stand and neutral. But no info seems to exist on the location of this relay. So i went to diag mode, cycled the neutral switch and listened for relay noises. It was behind the rear left side panel along with 2 other smaller relays. Okay so sidestand switch has continuity, the sidestand wiring also goes to this relay. Must be the starter curcuit cutout relay?? I replaced it with a brand new one. No change. Hoping its not the ecm. Seems to be a rare problem. So for now im stumped and in your hands dear fz6 friends
 

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Okay so yet another code 19 thread. Bike has worked fine for last 2 years with little maintenance admittedly other than oil, chain, tire pressure. Anyways i got code 19 where i get crank but no start. Flashing cel light when cranking. Static cel when key is on. Have read many things. Corroded connectors. Sidestand switch. Faulty ignition(key cylinder). Starter circuit cutout relay. Weak battery. I first suspected the sidestand switch was bad since in diag mode d21 did not change to on or off when cycling the sidestand. The neutral switch in diag mode worked fine. Forget which was d20/21. So before replacing sidestand switch i unplugged it from the harness and did an ohm test and sure enough there is continuity when the stand is up. Not when down. Which is normal? So i figure it must not be the switch. I cleaned connector. No change. i learned that the relay for starter circuit cutout relies on both side stand and neutral. But no info seems to exist on the location of this relay. So i went to diag mode, cycled the neutral switch and listened for relay noises. It was behind the rear left side panel along with 2 other smaller relays. Okay so sidestand switch has continuity, the sidestand wiring also goes to this relay. Must be the starter curcuit cutout relay?? I replaced it with a brand new one. No change. Hoping its not the ecm. Seems to be a rare problem. So for now im stumped and in your hands dear fz6 friends
The starter interrupt-cut off relay assembly has 2 relays. One fro the starter and one for the fuel pump/injectors. If the starter operates the safety protocols have been been met which is allowing the starter to operate. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on?
 

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The starter interrupt-cut off relay assembly has 2 relays. One fro the starter and one for the fuel pump/injectors. If the starter operates the safety protocols have been been met which is allowing the starter to operate. Do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key

Yes i do. I thought i read somewhere that there was a relay for the side stand and neutral switch too which they referred to as the “starter circuit cutout switch” but idk really what im talking about tbh. I replaced the relay thats behind the rear side plastic. 5VK-30. I assumed that was the problem since it made clicky noise when the neutral switch engaged. But not when the sidestand switch was. It did not fix. i know i replied to u in another post with this story but ill share again incase it helps fz nerds in the future. Long story short my ignition wires were cut. I resoldered them together. No issues for 2 years. Suddenly code 19. Replaced 5vk relay. No fix. Then i revisit my ignition wiring. All seem fine no shorts. But then i pull on the wires to see if theyre still connected to the ignition cylinder itself. Small blue wire was not. I suspect this is the root of my problems. I will replace or fix ignition and return with an update
 

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When you work with these wires you must disconnect the battery. The starter interrupt-cut off relay diode are very sensitive to any spikes or shorts. When people try to hot wire the bike that circuit board generally blows
 

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When you work with these wires you must disconnect the battery. The starter interrupt-cut off relay diode are very sensitive to any spikes or shorts. When people try to hot wire the bike that circuit board generally blows
Truee i think i did when i soldered them back together after they were cut. Im surprised that them cutting the ignition wires didnt short anything but all i did at the time was solder them back together and everything was fine. I may have weakened the solder joint inside the ignition on the small blue wire because that was the cause of my code 19. The small blue wire broke from its solder. I first found it by pulling on the individual wires coming from the bottom of the ignition. So i pull the ignition out while leaving it connected to the top triple clamp. Unplug wires from harness. Then i was able to have good access to the ignition for a fix. All of the screws on the ignitions are break off security screws so i just drilled a hole and used a screw extractor to get them out. Pretty easy as theyre not tourqed alot. Especially the ones on the very bottom of the ignition where the wires come out which is the ones u need to remove. The main screws that connect the ign to triple clamp can stay. Once the bottom screws are removed u have easy access to the solder joints for the wire. I simply resoldered the small blue wire to the only solder joint that didnt have a wire to it. Reassemble. Bike is back to normal. Code 19 cured. I havent seen this solution anywhere yet other than replacing the ignition. So hopefully this can help somebody with code 19 and maybe save a few bucks
 
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