fzclicking when trying to start !!

[graycbr]

hi guys
Need your help ...
Had my fz6 in garage for a yr not used , had plugged into my oxford charger etc battery full charge reading 13.4v with green light ..
Started bike around 4 wks ago started fine ran it until fan kicked in turned off ,had cup of tea etc ,came back to run into garage wont start so pushed back into place plugged I charger away I go ..
Tried a couple of wks ago to start no joy !! So ordered a new battery ...
Last wk fitted new battery still no joy just clicks !!
So ordered a new starter relay ...
Just fitted new starter relay still just clicks ...
Hmm battery 13.4v on oxford charger screen green light etc
Bike primes rev counter lights up as should makes the right sounds until you press the start button ..
53 plate ....
Meta V2 alarm system tried new battery's in remotes & new alarm box with new remotes (don't get nothing no fuel pump noise etc) !!!! so plugged in old system ...
Help plz
Any input would be great ...

 

[Motogiro]

When the starter relay passes current to the starter there is a greater load on the battery than any other device on the bike that would draw current. Generally the clicking is a voltage drop at the relay coil when the high current is drawn but there is not enough current delivery and a voltage drop occurs. As the the voltage drop occurs the relay opens (click) and no current flows to the starter and the voltage come back up enough to power the relay (click) and it clicks back on but then...... click click click click....

You should get a voltmeter and look at the battery voltage, at the battery. Or have the battery load tested. There are many posts here (search) on the forum with lots of info on how to trouble shoot these symptoms.

Make sure your connection are all good. Don't rule out the starter....

 

[graycbr]

brand new battery ....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As Motogiro posted, put a volt meter across the battery, watch the voltage and crank the bike.

Report back what the voltage drops to..


If it drops below to say 11 volts, you can try jump starting it off a car battery (NOT RUNNING).

I'd disconnect the alarm should it be faulty.

**Make sure the red plastic cover for the + side of the battery is NOT partially stuck in-between the battery and cable-It DOES happen..

BTW, sitting there idling, your pretty much simply running down the battery (or just breaking even voltage wise)...

 

[Motogiro]

brand new battery ....

That's right. You have a new battery and we want to get a picture of what's going on. That's the reason for asking to check the voltage at the battery terminals. We try not to guess what's wrong and like to start with some scientific techniques to trouble shoot and help you find the problem. You may have a bad stator or regulator/rectifier or something drawing current when the bike is suppose to not be using any current at all.
Oh yeah....:welcome: to the forum!

 

[FinalImpact]

Another aid when diagnosing current loss is to put your hand on all of the load carrying conductors. The point being this, if the battery has the current (energy) needed but the engine does not crank, that energy is going somewhere and is passed off as heat due to resistance.

Use caution as you can get burned if the connection is bad enough. The heat is made during failed starting attempts so you have to try and start it several times and then run your hand over the terminals, connectors, cables, relay, starter, etc.

Last little bit, the starter relay circuit may be compromised. The small red wire should be battery voltage with the key on and if the lockout circuitry works properly, the small blue is taken to ground potential to activate the relay.

Point, if you place you volt meter from Battery "-" to the blue wire and press start (key on), the voltage should go from battery voltage to Zero at that blue wire. If it does not, the starter lock out relay circuit is compromised.

Please measure battery voltage everything off _____.
Key on _____.
Key on and starter depressed _____.

These three items provide a snapshot of battery health.

 

[graycbr]

just quickly had a look in the dark straight in from work sigh ...
oxford charger states 13.4v all off
key on 12.8v
key on starter button on 12.2v - 11.8v tried three times ?

 

[FinalImpact]

That is the only meter you have?

According to that, there is no load being applied to the battery.

** Make certain the transmission is in neutral and jumper across the starter relay. **

You may be able to use an automotive jumper cable (one end opened and spanning the two lugs) to do this.
Some have used pliers. It can damage them. If not insulated, it could shock you when you break the connection. The later part is remote as you are not actually activating the solenoid part of the relay.

If it spins over, well, 2 bad relays seem unlikely. So it points to the relay lockout circuit being damaged.

 

[Ben sIII]

a while ago i stupidly tried to start it in gear with the the clutch out and for some reason the safety didnt work, something jammed up with the starter and it clicked but didnt start, i knew the battery was on the way out so wasnt to fussed when it did the same sound in neutral, gave it a push start and then all was good.

 

[graycbr]

update guys
a few paper clips into the alarm wiring loom block & the bike starts with all the old gear (battery & starter relay) sigh

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Great!

May I ask where "lincs" is?

I ask in that if its in Europe(outside the US at least) the bikes have the alarm. Its a clue that we didn't know.

Posting the country after Lincs (in your location) would certainly help others for certain issues in the future. Tks..

 

[payneib]

Great!

May I ask where "lincs" is?

I ask in that if its in Europe(outside the US at least) the bikes have the alarm. Its a clue that we didn't know.

Posting the country after Lincs (in your location) would certainly help others for certain issues in the future. Tks..

Lincolnshire/Lincoln, UK.

One thing I would say for alarm problems when it's been sat on a flat battery is to get the bikes battery charged up, then set the alarm off intentionally. Ignition on without deactivating for example. It'll just give the alarm/immobiliser a reset when you switch it off.

 

[graycbr]

Great!

May I ask where "lincs" is?

I ask in that if its in Europe(outside the US at least) the bikes have the alarm. Its a clue that we didn't know.

Posting the country after Lincs (in your location) would certainly help others for certain issues in the future. Tks..

edited ...

 

[graycbr]

Lincolnshire/Lincoln, UK.

One thing I would say for alarm problems when it's been sat on a flat battery is to get the bikes battery charged up, then set the alarm off intentionally. Ignition on without deactivating for example. It'll just give the alarm/immobiliser a reset when you switch it off.

thanks for the input
Meta systems alarms have a battery built into the alarm for a backup , this lasts for around 10yrs mine is 13yrs old now so the alarm company saying time to replace the head unit for a new one !!
I've done a bypass pinout on the main alarm block & the bike starts with no problems ...

 

[payneib]

Worst thing I ever did was buy a bike with an alarm on it. Mines a datatool S4 red (I think) and hate the bloody thing. Too sensitive to use in anything but passive mode, to complicated to just rip out.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

edited ...

Yep I see, thanks..

( I did look up "lincs" and being shortened, couldn't find the location.)