Gear change lever adjustment

Fazrrr Girl

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Posting this as I know at least one other person who had the same problem as me with changing down gears. When changing down by more than one gear at a time, I had to lift my foot up off the lever, before it would go down another gear. Sorry if this has already been covered here, and apologies for my lack of techie-speak :confused: My dad did this adjustment for me, and it works.

In the centre of the photo is a 'round thing' with a holding bolt, and two dots that will be lined up exactly (factory setting). First you need to ease off the rubber cap that sits at the end of the gear change rod thing, then remove the allen key bolt beneath it (don't lose the spacer). Then remove the holding bolt from the 'round thing', then use a large flat-head screwdriver to wiggle the 'gap' in the 'round thing' enough for it to slide off. Turn it clockwise by one little notch, slide it back on, replace the holding bolt, then do up the allen key bolt and replace the rubber cap. It's a tiny adjustment but it will lower the gear change lever slightly and you'll no longer have to lift your foot off.

If anyone wants to fill me in on what the 'round thing' is called then that would be great :D
 
I had the same prob ,but I just moved mine on the shaft,the other round thingy above the doova lacky that your talking about ,lol

did it negatively impact your whatcha-ma-call-it when you made that change?



thanks for this post. I'd like my shift lever to be lower but not by much. I didn't think about actually doing something about it until now :)
 
Posting this as I know at least one other person who had the same problem as me with changing down gears. When changing down by more than one gear at a time, I had to lift my foot up off the lever, before it would go down another gear. Sorry if this has already been covered here, and apologies for my lack of techie-speak :confused: My dad did this adjustment for me, and it works.

In the centre of the photo is a 'round thing' with a holding bolt, and two dots that will be lined up exactly (factory setting). First you need to ease off the rubber cap that sits at the end of the gear change rod thing, then remove the allen key bolt beneath it (don't lose the spacer). Then remove the holding bolt from the 'round thing', then use a large flat-head screwdriver to wiggle the 'gap' in the 'round thing' enough for it to slide off. Turn it clockwise by one little notch, slide it back on, replace the holding bolt, then do up the allen key bolt and replace the rubber cap. It's a tiny adjustment but it will lower the gear change lever slightly and you'll no longer have to lift your foot off.

If anyone wants to fill me in on what the 'round thing' is called then that would be great :D
Hi,
Does it alter the changing up gears? Do you have to change your foot/toe position?

Nelly
 
To add a little, you use the splined adjuster for course adjustment, and the threaded rod (nut under rubber) to make fine adjustments.

It is a case of getting the right position to suit your height/riding style. For instance I am tall and find my foot naturally points lower than the gear change allowed, so lowered it slightly.

Don't know why they haven't given fine adjustment on the foot brake though :(
 
Don't know why they haven't given fine adjustment on the foot brake though :(

I agree. You have to take pull your foot up a bit to get to the brake.

I tried adjusting mine, and still have the same problem every now and then. I let off of the clutch just a bit. Not enough to engage, but enough to get the shifter to return to the upright positon so that I can shift down again. It just seems sluggish. Is is an RPM thing?
 
It is called a hime joint.

You can loosen the lock nut at each end and rotate the linkage for finer adjustment. I made this adjustment to both FZ's I have owned because the shift lever is too high for me from the factory. I think it makes a huge improvement in shifting.
 
I lowered my shift lever using the threaded rod, but did it for upshift performance. I was occasionally hitting neutral while going from 1st to 2nd, because it was just a bit too much reach. Lowering the shifter down a 1/2" or so fixed it. Don't think I've missed a shift since!
 
You can adjust the rear brake lever as well. I did it using the haynes manual but you also have to adjust the rear brake light sensitivity. I did it a while ago and don't remember the exact process. I wanted my brake lower so it would take a bit more effort to lock up the tire. I adjusted the light so it activated with just a touch so I could flash the rear brake before slowing down.
 
When I first got the bike I found it stupidly high and at first adjusted it in your way by removing and adjusting the bit in the red circle. This was too much. I then just use the bolt in the yellow circle and the one on the other end of the lever jobbie that isn't in the photo but is pointed to by the yellow arrow.
 
I hope you have tried to put some oil in the shift lever joints before adjusting the lever. I have experienced the same problems you are describing and oil helped solving these issues.

Good luck! //Henrik
 
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