Guy help chain clicking after tightening from dealer! video included

[Recluse420]

I Just got it back a week ago from the dealer I noticed a slight tic a few days ago and now it's turned into a tic so bad I can feel it from the foot pegs to the handle bars, it's worse a slow speeds. I recorded a video that shows the sprockets and the sound, the sprockets are even on both sides. The dealer is saying they didn't tighten it and that's a whole other mess I would like to avoid going back there and learn how to un-fk this myself.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRnY4hLyQAc&feature=youtube_gdata_player"]http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aRnY4hLyQAc&feature=youtube_gdata_player[/ame]

 

[Carlos840]

What you are hearing there is the chain rubbing on the plastic cover that sits on top of the swing arm (the bit you film from 15s on).
It is normal for the chain to do that when the rear wheel is up and there is no force applied to the chain, my bike does exactly the same thing.

I would say check your chain slack just to be sure, but i doubt that is the problem! It should be 45.0–55.0 mm (1.77–2.17 in), measured with elevated wheel and at the tightest point of the chain, the bike prefers to be closer to the slackest measurement.

Now regarding the tic, it probably comes from something else.

 

[trepetti]

Looks too tight but tough to tell from video. If you know how to adjust yourself verify 2 inches of movement at the loosest part of bottom. If you don't know how now is the time to learn. Easy to do and will save a bunch over the dealer doing it. Grab a service manual from bonemans fz6 site and have at it. Good luck and ask if you get in a bind.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[Carlos840]

Looks too tight but tough to tell from video. If you know how to adjust yourself verify 2 inches of movement at the loosest part of bottom. If you don't know how now is the time to learn. Easy to do and will save a bunch over the dealer doing it. Grab a service manual from bonemans fz6 site and have at it. Good luck and ask if you get in a bind.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Chain slack should be measured at the tightest point of the chain, not loosest!

 

[FinalImpact]

Agreed, looks tight and dry. Although the dry is very subjective from this veiw.
What is your method and full cleaning / lube interval?

I have yet to find a synthetic lube that keeps the chain quiet and happy past 400 miles. Clean, lube, loosen and see what the pegs and tic do.

 

[FinalImpact]

Chain slack should be measured at the tightest point of the chain, not loosest!

Which equates to the the area just past the fastener holding the chain wear/guide. Its in the owner manual.

 

[trepetti]

Chain slack should be measured at the tightest point of the chain, not loosest!

You are of course, correct. The TIGHTEST part of the chain. Thanks for the correction and I deserve a :spank:

 

[Recluse420]

Thanks all!

 

[Recluse420]

Is there any videos of anyone doing this?

 

[Carlos840]

Which equates to the the area just past the fastener holding the chain wear/guide. Its in the owner manual.

Not really!

You are correct in saying that one should measure the slack just past the fastener, but this has nothing to do with the tightest or loosest point.

The tight/loose point refers to the portion of the chain itself, since some links can wear faster than others you will get portions of the chain that are tighter, and some that are looser while being measured at the same distance from the sprocket.

So, you want to spin the wheel a few times while wiggling the chain up and down at the same spot until you find the tightest point, not measure up and down the chain until you find the tightest spot.

 

[Recluse420]

Here is a pic.

 

[Carlos840]

Is there any videos of anyone doing this?

Google is your friend:

(9:30)

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7uXGmaWphs]Yamaha FZ6 Oil + Filter Change Chain Adjustment - YouTube[/ame]

Although this guy skips the "look for the tightest point of the chain thing" i mentioned earlier.

 

[Recluse420]

Not really!

You are correct in saying that one should measure the slack just past the fastener, but this has nothing to do with the tightest or loosest point.

The tight/loose point refers to the portion of the chain itself, since some links can wear faster than others you will get portions of the chain that are tighter, and some that are looser while being measured at the same distance from the sprocket.

So, you want to spin the wheel a few times while wiggling the chain up and down at the same spot until you find the tightest point, not measure up and down the chain until you find the tightest spot.

I think I'm doing it correctly but not sure, can you tell anything from that picture?

 

[Carlos840]

I think I'm doing it correctly but not sure, can you tell anything from that picture?

No, that picture is pretty useless...

Just google FZ6 chain adjustment or watch the video i posted!

You want to measure the actual travel of the chain, ie from the lowest point you can push it to the highest point you can push it, not from the swing arm.

 

[Recluse420]

Google is your friend:

(9:30)

Yamaha FZ6 Oil + Filter Change Chain Adjustment - YouTube

Although this guy skips the "look for the tightest point of the chain thing" i mentioned earlier.

Man, I wish I was better at this stuff even this video is intimidating to me.

 

[Carlos840]

It honestly is a really easy thing to do, you do need a few tools, torque wrench, large sockets, spanners.

Just follow the video and nothing can really go wrong.

If you don't feel that you can do it at least measure the slack properly so you know what the situation is.

 

[Carlos840]

Here, have a look at that, he shows how to find tight/loose spots and is pretty clear about things.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zb1isb3yCAQ]Delboy's Garage, Suzuki Bandit, Chain Adjustment. (plus clean and lube). - YouTube[/ame]

It's not FZ6 specific but it's pretty much the same deal.

Chain adjustment starts at 09.50

 

[darius]

Man, I wish I was better at this stuff even this video is intimidating to me.

If you haven't tensioned a chain before, consider having a buddy with you who has..

Do you have the appropriate tools to handle the rear wheel socket? If I remember right it's a 32mm socket.

You'll need a breaker bar to get that sucker off and a large torque wrench for final tightening.

 

[Recluse420]

Here, have a look at that, he shows how to find tight/loose spots and is pretty clear about things.

Delboy's Garage, Suzuki Bandit, Chain Adjustment. (plus clean and lube). - YouTube

It's not FZ6 specific but it's pretty much the same deal.

Chain adjustment starts at 09.50

Thanks for this

 

[FinalImpact]

Not really!

You are correct in saying that one should measure the slack just past the fastener, but this has nothing to do with the tightest or loosest point.

The tight/loose point refers to the portion of the chain itself, since some links can wear faster than others you will get portions of the chain that are tighter, and some that are looser while being measured at the same distance from the sprocket.

So, you want to spin the wheel a few times while wiggling the chain up and down at the same spot until you find the tightest point, not measure up and down the chain until you find the tightest spot.

We applied different concepts to that phrase and were not referring to the same thing. The one in the Recluse's video is nearing Piano String tension!

IMO if a chain has kinks or "bound links" which keep it from straightening out, I'd replace it! One that is clean and well lubed usually doesn't show much variation but I'm guessing this it subjective and there's video of new chain being all funky loose & tight! Blah