Help with the steering bearing races

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1^.

In the shop manual, it doesn't even show a torque value for those bolts, nor that they even exist (hint). What are you torquing them to upon re-assembly???

As Randy posted, should a piece of sand, crap, etc fall inbetween the frame halfs, its not going to fully come together and may causes issues down the road..

Should you go this route anyway, I'd make sure the frame is super clean, have access to an air compressor and finally, once the frame is tightened back down, SET THE BEARING INTO THE FRAME making sure it bottoms out. As noted before, you'll hear when its fully seated, its very obvious...

 

[lrojasma]

Did you just loosen the bolts in the front neer steering?
Or any other frame bolts like engine bolts etc?
Did you use any locktite?

Hi.

I didn´t take the entire bolts off, just losen the steering bolts, then using the torque wrench tight it again.

I understand the reasons that everyone else is talking about, i just put on the balance the posibility of damage my steering races trying to put them in place, again the posibility of my frame get the head lose in time and i prefer retight again and use loctite on my steering head than damage my races.

I just did it because it´s easier, i know is not the way that it´s supposed to be, because as everyone say, the FSM will tell about it. And other bikes like R6, R1, etc that it´s not designed the frame in two halfs will have a dissadvantage.

When you lose a bolt you always have the posibility to put it again in place, so if doing that will save my bearings... welcome

 

[lrojasma]

+1^.

In the shop manual, it doesn't even show a torque value for those bolts, nor that they even exist (hint). What are you torquing them to upon re-assembly???

As Randy posted, should a piece of sand, crap, etc fall inbetween the frame halfs, its not going to fully come together and may causes issues down the road..

Should you go this route anyway, I'd make sure the frame is super clean, have access to an air compressor and finally, once the frame is tightened back down, SET THE BEARING INTO THE FRAME making sure it bottoms out. As noted before, you'll hear when its fully seated, its very obvious...

About the torque, i used the max torque shown on the manual for that kind of screw on the frame, that is 19NM.

I have the bike two years with that torque, without even locktite, with 3 gound hit, and they are never lose.

Is just an option.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Good idea using those general #'s for re-torqueing the frame head bolts. :thumbup:

Just as an FYI, I had to replace some hub wheel bearings on a jet ski trailer a couple of weeks ago. The races were pretty bad.

The races are so hard, its just about impossible to damage them installing them. You more likely to damage the aluminum frame if their installed (hammered in) crooked. Freezing the bearing first, should help as well.

 

[JONJONsocal]

now that I read all about it.. can someone tell me why do this? lol

:BLAA:

 

[fazil]

Look at this link for further details:

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-streetfighter/48657-r6-fork-triple-tree-modding.html