How do I check for spark?

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 ^^^.

All 4 injectors are likely not clogged but it seems you have a fueling issue..
Fuel pressure needs to be checked (per the manual)

Do you have a shop manual?


Below pic expires in 5 days:

 

[Stringbean781]

JM2C. For me, step 1 of troubleshooting is to figure out the trouble.

While it is possible that all 4 injectors have failed to a point where none are working, the single point of failure is fuel pump / fuel pressure. Verify your fuel pressure before sending anything out for repair.

That makes sense to me. I just put in a new pump and it primes when ignition is turned on so I am hoping that's not the problem. I see this photo in the shop manual posted by Scott! Thanks

 

[trepetti]

That makes sense to me. I just put in a new pump and it primes when ignition is turned on so I am hoping that's not the problem. How would I check the fuel pressure on this bike??

See Scott's post above...... from the service manual.

Remind me.... before the fuel pump replacement the bike ran poorly, but after the replacement it doesn't run at all. Was the 'new' pump brand new, or something you had already?

I would revert to the original pump and see if the original symptoms return. You may have introduced another layer to the problem by installing a questionable pump.

 

[Stringbean781]

See Scott's post above...... from the service manual.

Remind me.... before the fuel pump replacement the bike ran poorly, but after the replacement it doesn't run at all. Was the 'new' pump brand new, or something you had already?

I would revert to the original pump and see if the original symptoms return. You may have introduced another layer to the problem by installing a questionable pump.

I may have worded it strangely in my original post. The bike started running rough, eventually stalled and wouldn't start. I pulled the fuel pump to check it and it had paint chips all over the fuel filter, water in the gas and debris in the tank. I order a brand new fuel pump, replaced it and cleaned out the tank. It continued to not start as it did before I changed the fuel pump.

 

[trepetti]

I may have worded it strangely in my original post. The bike started running rough, eventually stalled and wouldn't start. I pulled the fuel pump to check it and it had paint chips all over the fuel filter, water in the gas and debris in the tank. I order a brand new fuel pump, replaced it and cleaned out the tank. It continued to not start as it did before I changed the fuel pump.

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[Stringbean781]

I took the fuel tank out and plugged it so I can bring it to work tomorrow and test the fuel pressure. I was going to attempt to get into the fuel rail but the phillips head screws were so tight and I was afraid of stripping them. Going to get some vice grip pliers from work as well to help get those out. As you said change 1 variable at a time so going to check the fuel pump first then dive into the fuel rail/injectors. Thanks for all the help!

 

[Gary in NJ]

Please do not use vice grips on the screws. If you do, you'll be...well...screwed.

Get a very long handle screw driver, over 12" or longer. The long screw driver adds additional force to the screw head through the torsion of the shaft. Also the length allows you you put more down force on the tool, ensuring that the you don't slip off the screw head. You can also try a few shots of PB Blaster a few hours before you try to remove them.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If the long screwdriver doesn't work, a hand impact tool (used as gently as possible)
should pop em loose:

You can put a 3/8" extension if need be. I don't know how stout the aluminum is under the rail..

 

[trepetti]

If we are now in 'tool talk', then you want to look at the Vessel JIS screwdrivers. Aside from having the correct tip for 'Japanese Phillips Heads', the are also impact drivers that rotate when struck. I have 2 of them and they work great.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The set I have is easily 25 years old and the tips are "regular", not the JIS tips.

The regular tips should work fine (I wouldn't buy another set of tips((however I am a "tool-a-holic"))

Those screws aren't real big, nor real small, but should pop out with a slight impact...

Off topic a sec but what is this(I use VERY often- NOT on the FZ), what is it??
(NO prize for the correct answer either..):

 

[Gary in NJ]

Well, it’s obviously a sparkler holder.

 

[Stringbean781]

The set I have is easily 25 years old and the tips are "regular", not the JIS tips.

The regular tips should work fine (I wouldn't buy another set of tips((however I am a "tool-a-holic"))

Those screws aren't real big, nor real small, but should pop out with a slight impact...

Off topic a sec but what is this(I use VERY often- NOT on the FZ), what is it??
(NO prize for the correct answer either..):

Thank you for all the insight!! This tool is for cleaning carbs i believe! Also I have seen the stubby impact screw driver used on automotive brakes! I believe we have those at work! I was only going to use a vice grip because I was following this post on removing fuel injectors on an R6. Impact screw driver makes much more sense! http://www.proflowtech.com/2012/05/removing-yamaha-r6-injectors/

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Thank you for all the insight!! This tool is for cleaning carbs i believe!

Bing, bing, bing, we have a winner!

Yes, it's a carb jet cleaner. Various sizes for different sized jets.


Ok, back to your issue. Reading that article, those screws are loctited in.
I don't see in the manual what strength they use.

If RED loctite (as used on the FZ' stator-SUPER FRIGGGIN STRONG),
heat was required to break that loctite loose(with an impact tool too)

You may be using large vise grips on them. If buggered up, allen head bolts would would be fine for replacement.

Be careful and good luck.

 

[Stringbean781]

Bing, bing, bing, we have a winner!

Yes, it's a carb jet cleaner. Various sizes for different sized jets.


Ok, back to your issue. Reading that article, those screws are loctited in.
I don't see in the manual what strength they use.

If RED loctite (as used on the FZ' stator-SUPER FRIGGGIN STRONG),
heat was required to break that loctite loose(with an impact tool too)

You may be using large vise grips on them. If buggered up, allen head bolts would would be fine for replacement.

Be careful and good luck.

Awesome, Thank you! I was looking at testing the fuel pressure and I was curious if I need the entire system hooked up(hooked up to the fuel rail etc.) to test it properly or can I just hook pressure up to the tank(pump) outlet?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The outlet to the tank has an "auto shut off" valve, IE-You remove the hose, the tank doesn't leak.

Even if you could, the rail pressure is what needs to be tested.
Have to rule things out one at a time to find the specific issue..

You may have the correct pressure but ELECTRICALLY, nothings telling the injectors to fire off...

That ^^^, (checking electric/ground to the injectors), would be next to check IF rail pressure is proper.

.

 

[Stringbean781]

Went to check the fuel pressure but the kit I got didn't have proper adapters. I plan on using regular fuel hose with hose clamps and T-ing into the hose to get fuel pressure tonight.

 

[Stringbean781]

First off, this all sucks because I live a giant apartment complex and have barely any tools that are quickly available.

I was able to test the fuel pressure by T-ing into the fuel line. When I primed the bike, the pressure read 13psi and when I cranked it went down to 5psi. It then rose back up to 13psi when I stopped cranking and pump continued to run for a few seconds. Obviously this is low. As I was cranking, I notice it started to want to start. Sounded like maybe a cylinder firing off or something. I got out my phone to record the audio, but the battery died on the next crank.... I quit then and began putting the stock fuel hose back on. The gas that poured out was brown so that's concerning...

Going to bring my battery to work and charge it tomorrow. Also, Scott said there was a shut off valve for the pump that would prevent fuel from coming out, but when I unhooked the hose, gas continued to pour out of the white plastic outlet. Thanks for all your patience!!

This is the new fuel pump I put in... https://www.ebay.com/itm/151925243186

 

[Gary in NJ]

Brown fuel...you found your problem. You need to clean the fuel system from tank to rail.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That, ^^, and if pressure is still ONLY at those low #'s, lack of pressure is still an issue.

And fuel flowing, with the line off, something is wrong, BIG TIME. Something in there may be buggered up, not allowing the valve to seat (I've never had one apart so I don't know exactly what's in there) or just a not properly operating pump.

(I've had my tank off(replaced actually), many times, the line comes off, the internal valve shuts off fuel from coming out.

That leakage, may be indicative of a clog, or ? at the pump not allowing the pump to pressurize or perhaps that NOT opening fully (with the hose hooked up)...



.
.

 

[Stringbean781]

My plan tonight is to empty tank(inspect fuel) and attempt at removing the fuel rail. From initial thoughts, I feel that the fuel was clean from the tank and dirty in the rail, but I shall check that tonight!! Thanks all. Also, the fuel pump filter seems pretty minuscule. I am curious if anyone every puts an aftermarket fuel filter in line with the fuel hose?