Is my waterpump now due?

[FinalImpact]

2007, if no fluid was interchanged inside the pump and the #11 O-Ring sealing the engine oil to the water pump is not sealing, it makes sense that the O-ring could allow engine oil past it.

FWIW: in the US this product is available and seems to work great. Head bearings, rear shock bearing, swing arm, Anything that doesn't spin at high speed, pivots, levers, etc... Bought in a cartridge tube plus it's water resistant too. Take a look. Should be able to find it at most parts stores.

Valvoline Crimson™ Grease
Multi-purpose lithium soap grease designed for commercial fleets.

• Provides excellent performance over a variety of operating conditions
• Dyed red for easy identification
• Contains select extreme pressure additives to protect and lubricate during heavy shock loading periods
• Is fortified with oxidation and corrosion

Overview
Valvoline's Crimson grease (Red Lithium 12-Hydroxy) is a tacky, extreme pressure, lithium soap grease designed specifically for the commercial fleet environment }} And Many Yamaha's

Every Valvoline grease is formulated to stand up to a range of extreme operating environments and conditions. Across the board, Valvoline greases provide excellent pumpability, lubricate and protect while withstanding extreme temperatures and load stresses, and deliver outstanding resistance to water washout.

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

2007, if no fluid was interchanged inside the pump and the #11 O-Ring sealing the engine oil to the water pump is not sealing, it makes sense that the O-ring could allow engine oil past it.

FWIW: in the US this product is available and seems to work great. Head bearings, rear shock bearing, swing arm, Anything that doesn't spin at high speed, pivots, levers, etc... Bought in a cartridge tube plus it's water resistant too. Take a look. Should be able to find it at most parts stores.

Valvoline Crimson™ Grease
Multi-purpose lithium soap grease designed for commercial fleets.

• Provides excellent performance over a variety of operating conditions
• Dyed red for easy identification
• Contains select extreme pressure additives to protect and lubricate during heavy shock loading periods
• Is fortified with oxidation and corrosion

Overview
Valvoline's Crimson grease (Red Lithium 12-Hydroxy) is a tacky, extreme pressure, lithium soap grease designed specifically for the commercial fleet environment }} And Many Yamaha's

Every Valvoline grease is formulated to stand up to a range of extreme operating environments and conditions. Across the board, Valvoline greases provide excellent pumpability, lubricate and protect while withstanding extreme temperatures and load stresses, and deliver outstanding resistance to water washout.

Thanks FinalImpact for your input/info.

I think I might have found the issue even without opening it...I messed this up!

In page 6-11 it said "disassembling the water pump, and showed very clear the bearing should be touched down completely to the housing alone by itself!

So page 6-12, instructed to install the bearing at 1st, push it hard down into the housing of its own. Thus the oil seal can be ONLY pushed in from the inside of water pump housing out and then sandwich'ed in between bearing and mechanical seal.

I made the mistake that I installed the oil seal first from the side of bearing so there was gap of oil seal floating in the bearing housing...I believe this causes the oil leak to the weep hole.

I don't see any chance to correct this issue without a new part order of mechanical seal, bearing, oil seal..this will be another $50 part ordering - damn it...

I will have to revise the write-up so it will be clear the rebuild/re-assembling order so someone will not make the same stupid mistake like mine!

 

[FinalImpact]

UHG.... That's unfortunate.

I did notice the FSM said to lube internal seals with coolant (water only), no grease. While the o-ring seal to the engine was grease.
Good luck getting it apart.

 

[FinalImpact]

Had a request for rearsets pictures...

I zoom a bit and noticed this.... Its obviously a conspiracy! :disapprove:

:rof::rof:

Not that I'm pointing fingers but it did make me think of this thread!!! :spank:

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

FinalImpact,,,LOL is it just happened now to yours hahhaha? :rockon: it's a curse after reading the thread hehehe!,,right timing FI..better do it now before hot summer kicks in! This operation should be piece of cake for you :thumbup:

Ok, my issue seems to be solved, it was the oil seal not completely pushed into its own housing (doesn't matter which side it's pushed in, it must be completely fell into its own housing (see the manual)

At first oil seal, it was pushed in but not completely felt down to pass the bearing housing. Now to get this sucker out, I had to give it little push from the water pump side to push out the oil seal and so was the bearing. The bearing could be re-usable (I hoped) since the push force was applied onto the oil seal rubber.

Luckily my local shop has the oil seal (even the water pump mechanical seal, o-rings they have all!), it's $7.95 + tax.

Second installation for new oil seal,, the new/existing mechanical seal still intact, bearing's still out. I applied some coolant onto the oil seal, firmly pressed/pushed completely down, passed the bearing housing. Re-assembled the bearing, impeller shaft, clip and, cover and filled up the coolant. Loaded/unloaded engine for 30 minutes, NO oil leak. I hope this is now resolved.
My stupid mistake $9 + $20 new o-rings order that I don't think I will be using them any way! I DIDN'T read the instruction thorough!

 

[FinalImpact]

FinalImpact,,,LOL is it just happened now to yours hahhaha? :rockon: it's a curse after reading the thread hehehe!,,right timing FI..better do it now before hot summer kicks in!

Pretty sure my woes are isolated to the drain bolt for recycling the brass drain plug washer. I have one on order. Hopefully your issues are behind you!

Just say no to green Tears! :tard::tard:

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Pretty sure my woes are isolated to the drain bolt for recycling the brass drain plug washer. I have one on order. Hopefully your issues are behind you!

Just say no to green Tears! :tard::tard:

Yes, hopefully! I tested twice today as there is no leaking oil or coolant after the re-assembly. It's usually leaked after 15 minutes on idle once the fan starts at 212F but seems to be dry now!

Thanks Scott, FI and ozgur for you guys valuable input, thoughts, much appreciated and also everyone taking time to read the thread!

Thx,
jh

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Congrates!

Yep, in at least 99% of the time, bearings and seals need to be fully seated when installed. Bearings will make a different sound once fully installed..

At least it was an easy to get to part and nothing deep in the engine:thumbup:

Go ride!!!:Sport:

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Phewss...hoorrrrray!!! Yep, riding and riding,,,every day 2hr 70 miles for commute...I would have been upset if my bike's down and have to drive car because the bumper-to-bumper traffic Los Angeles 405!

Thanks again everyone,,,such very close, caring community of FZ6...

 

[FinalImpact]

From: Oil seal assembly direction, any experienced rebuild help appreciated!

Ok, I rebuilt my water pump with the service manual I hand. The instruction doesn't say clear which side of the oil seal goes to which bearing side and the water seal side. My mistake that didn't notice when disassembled the oil seal.

Oil seal has two surface sides, one with spring and one flat with yellow paint on it. I assembled as the spring side face to the bearing and the flat face to the water seal.

The reason I asked because mine occasionally leaks few drops of oil through the weep hole.

For the last week, it didn't leak a drop of oil. I just changed my engine oil and today it got a sip drop of oil through the weep hole as I checked.


I went through many times in the instruction, it just said to assemble the oil seal diameter match to the bearing side but didn't say which side of the oil seal to match up the bearing or water seal.

Really appreciate any input to this as I'm kinda frustrated to this water pump oil leak, thanks again!

FSM pg 1-7 shows a single sided seal with a spring in it. This seal would be installed with the spring towards the source of the oil.

Oil seals with two spring can be more complex. As installed the wrong way and they burn up. Not talking about fork seals here - oil seals on shafts. If you look close at the seal and see the seal has very tiny wicking groves which essentially use the shafts rotation to pump the oil out of the seal. THIS MAY REQUIRE MAGNIFICATION to see. Lets take the WP oil seal as an example where the shaft turns CW. The groves should point towards the crank and the leading edge I reference should be towards the WP.

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Awesome, I think I installed it correctly. I assembled the oil seal's spring side toward to the bearing side (oil engine source).

I think what I did was pushing the seal little toward to the water seal against which manual said the oil seal need to contact to the bearing side. So this has created the space between the bearing and oil seal while the oil seal was pushed further down to contact to the water seal.

I guess that I will have to open the water pump again this weekend and push the oil seal little toward to the bearing to make their sides get contacted.

Thanks FinalImpact to decode the service manual instruction!

Thanks again everyone spending time on this thread!

 

[FinalImpact]

In **most ALL** cases seals should be driven in until they stop. Its what ensures the seal is square to the shaft as its a positive stop of 360 degrees.

But there are exceptions so you have to pay attention. You best source of info is OEM assembly and paying close attention to the way it was found. At this point in its life the shaft likely has tell tale marks on it. If it has an actual groove and seal is on the edge of the old grove, that can leak too. So look it over real close and figure that 2500 - 3200 grit sand paper should be the finished surface

Even small scratches in the shaft can pass oil and some seals are glued in place as the oil can get around a metal housing so again, tiny voids must be filled. Its attention to detail.

You mind if I merge the other thread with this? Also if you have it apart again, take some pictures so there is no doubt about the process.

Good luck!

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

In **most ALL** cases seals should be driven in until they stop. Its what ensures the seal is square to the shaft as its a positive stop of 360 degrees.

But there are exceptions so you have to pay attention. You best source of info is OEM assembly and paying close attention to the way it was found. At this point in its life the shaft likely has tell tale marks on it. If it has an actual groove and seal is on the edge of the old grove, that can leak too. So look it over real close and figure that 2500 - 3200 grit sand paper should be the finished surface

Even small scratches in the shaft can pass oil and some seals are glued in place as the oil can get around a metal housing so again, tiny voids must be filled. Its attention to detail.

You mind if I merge the other thread with this? Also if you have it apart again, take some pictures so there is no doubt about the process.

Good luck!

Thanks FI - please go ahead to merge other thread! appreciated!

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Sorry, I didn't have time to take the picture as well since it was little late last night I finished the re-assembly of the water pump. So it was $55 part I spent, new water seal, new bearing, oil seal, o-rings.

Thanks FI, it's very good to know which side should face to the oil source!


I believe it's now good at this time. I would say to stick with the manual, the manual said to install bearing first and then oil seal..etc ..it has its reason.

The oil seal must contact with bearing side evenly. The bearing must be assembled in its label shown upward (so the side without any letter facedown to the housing).

Once the bearing is assembled firmly, pushed the oil seal (face with spring upward to the bearing side, push it firmly/evenly so it contacts evenly with the bearing side).

Now, it's time to install the water seal. I posted the picture below shown how the oil seal will be installed and assembled, it's very true how it should be!

 

[FinalImpact]

Now you can do your own failure analysis! :thumbup:
--> Failure Analysis
--> Common Causes

Standard Designs

 

[bryancraftyhands]

I PM'ed you with some info from the manual and well as how the seals (directions) should be installed... Hopefully that'll help..:thumbup:

As I see you still around from this post, and it seems I have a similar problem I'm going to be digging back into this weekend, could you PM me this info as well?
I am also wondering what cheap tool he used to push the bearing out. He said below, but if it's still in the thread I don't see it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As I see you still around from this post, and it seems I have a similar problem I'm going to be digging back into this weekend, could you PM me this info as well?
I am also wondering what cheap tool he used to push the bearing out. He said below, but if it's still in the thread I don't see it.

Pm sent. I'm not sure what bearing your referring to to push out...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You have mail!