Is my waterpump now due?

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Thank you very much Scott! very helpful!

I ordered parts from Partzilla, the cheapest place to order with only $5.95 shipping fee!

I think the water pump falling apart due to the age. However my coworker FZ1 gauged to 120K miles and water pump works just fine for him. He actually did have stator replacement when it was 80K miles.

His brakes work! he hasn't had yet the valve adjustment as he recently checked,,it's still in spec ,,,very impressive at 120K but valve still in spec!Blah

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

alright! all parts will be delivered by Sat weekend.

I know Scott already mentioned that there's no need any loctie at all.

The picture from another thread shown the bearing and inner water pump housing left some blue locktie....

the manual's also shown the loctie tube in the installation process..it's applied on the 2 x o-rings..

maybe I just need to apply loctie to wherever I saw when re-assemble the water bump then?

thx,
jh

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

alright! all parts will be delivered by Sat weekend.

I know Scott already mentioned that there's no need any loctie at all.

The picture from another thread shown the bearing and inner water pump housing left some blue locktie....

the manual's also shown the loctie tube in the installation process..it's applied on the 2 x o-rings..

maybe I just need to apply loctie to wherever I saw when re-assemble the water bump then?

thx,
jh

If you look on page 5-394 under "SYMBOLS",(located before section 1) , the "LS" tube is lithium soap based grease(#13), not loctite. A oil looking can with a "LT" in the middle (#15) IS loctite...

That may be where there's some confusion... :thumbup:

Make sure when you do re-assemble, you put some anti-freeze on the moving parts and have the system full of coolant. Running the engine even for a very short period of time W/O coolant(lubricant) will destroy the seal..

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

ah my mistake, didn't read it through.

Thank you everyone for spending time, giving input, support through this thread.. I appreciate it!
jh

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Here ya go, post #8, pic's and everything!

http://www.600riders.com/forum/gara...ange-noises.html?highlight=water+pump+rebuild

 

[FinalImpact]

Just throwing this out there even though ITS HIGHLY UNLIKELY....

A defective radiator cap can induce leaks in an otherwise "good system". In short; if its going over pressure, the seal might be the first place to pass coolant.

Is it a stock cap or has it been replaced?

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

parts were delivered late on Monday this week so I didn't have time to do in week days.

Saturday's coming, I will start rebuilding the water bump tomorrow.

I can confirm the leaking's coming from the weep hole, little by little and coolant drying up around the contact between inner housing and engine (same symptom like the car when it's found like a dried coolant build up (I called it coolant bee nest LOL). It's time to rebuild!

I hope I can get the video recording, photos during the process!

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Rebuild is complete! : Is my waterpump now due?

Said easy than being done. It wasn't hard, it just took sometimes to remove the bearing, mechanical seal in proper ways.

I didn't have time to take the pictures but the coolant leak was actually from weeping hole.

The failed parts are:
a. oil seal, it was deformed. it was the right time to rebuild the water pump otherwise water would have found its way to the bearing and so the engine!
b. bearing, it was getting loose when I did the spin test, no water present in the bearing
c. mechanical seal, there are two parts, the seal damper with spring and the mechanical seal housing. The mechanical seal was somewhat deformed, it seemed to be the main failure caused the coolant started leaking into the weep hole!

Here are the steps I did to rebuild the water bump:

1. Drain the coolant by the drain screw (the one with cooper washer!), flushed it with distilled water, air compressor to clean the remained coolant in the system.
2. Disconnect all the hoses from the water pump
3. Unscrew two main hex nut from the water pump.
4. wiggling the whole water pump unit left and right with little by little outward force, it will come out easily!
5. Open up the water pump by unscrewing the two 8-screws remained on the housing. The water pump and the cover should be separated easily by the flat philip screw driver!
6. It's recommended to replace all the parts of the water pump, parts are cheap to rebuild
7. Impeller shaft's clip removal, use some small tip plier to remove the shaft clip, pull the impeller out. At this moment, the mechanical seal core will be probably removed easy with the impeller leaving the mechanical seal in the water pump housing. Leave it there, we will come back later to remove it - don't panic !
8. Removing the bearing, I used one of the cheap tools below to push the bearing out (inside out ,,gotta use some force to push the bearing out, it was tight fit!)
9. Oil seal removal, After the bearing was removed, use a small tip flat screw driver to take out the oil seal
10. Removing the mechanical seal housing, get a heat gun, heating up the mechanical seal housing one minute, use the same tool to remove the mechanical seal housing. It's required little force to pump out the mechanical seal housing from the bearing side!
11. Removing the impeller seal (or whatever it's called)
12. Should have all new parts mechanical seals, oil seal, impeller seal, o-ring seal, cover seal
13. Re-assemble order
a. Oil seal and bearing. I used 3/4, 1/2 water hose to punch the bearing
into the water bump bearing housing's. Be careful not to punch on the bearing inner
ring .
FIRST, assembling the bearing, bearing label face outward, push/punch the housing down completely into its own housing!
Second, assembling the oild seal from the inside of the water pump. The yellow face inward to the water pump side and the oil seal side with spring faces upward to bearing side. It needs to be completely pushed
AGAINST contact to the bearing housing (note at this time, bearing is already pushed down completely into its own housing)
Check and ensure the bearing pushed in completely and oil seal falls into its own housing and not having any gap in between oil seal and bearing housing.
b. Mechanical seal, re-assemble it as the whole unit or whatever the unit
is shipped to you, do not try to separate the mechanical seal from its
housing, it's brand new right? . I used the water hose 3/4 to push
the mechanical seal into water pump, it's very tight fit (is not push
assembly so prepare small piece of wood or small hammer to punch
steadily not to deform it.) Check and ensure it pushed in completely (At this time, you will have the water pump seal, oil seal and bearing assembled just like "sandwich" setup. The water pump seal blocks the water from
getting to oil side and oil seal blocks the oil from getting to the water pump. If oil seal is not assembled properly, you will get the oil leaks through the weep hole so on the same mechanical seal failure lets water leaks
through weep hole (I wasted an oil seal and took a great lesson on this as I didn't read the manual thorough but I hope my lesson will help you avoid the mistake I made as I assembled oil seal incorrectly so oil was
leaked through weep hole when testing)
c. Impeller shaft's seal, use a piece of wood, plastic to push the seal in
place evenly!!
d. Insert the impeller shaft and installed the clip-on to hold the shaft in
place, inspect again and sure all parts are installed properly!
e. Spin the impeller few spins and ensure its moving smooth ,
remember to put on the water pump's o-ring seal, apply some engine
oil and start to insert the water pump housing back to the engine!
f. Re-assemble the water pump housing, wiggling it so the shaft will lock
on the engine shaft.
g. screw back to main hex screw (7-8lbs and 2 8-screws. I applied some
loctie to the two main hex screw (as previously they had loctie on
them as well)
h. REMEMBER to fill up the coolant again before starting your engine!

Testing,
I left the bike idle, loaded through gear 3-4-5 for an hour, checked the weep hole, found it dry. Water pump rebuild is complete.

Hope this helps if someone come across to have water pump rebuild, cheap and it will takes about 2hr to do it. Parts are about $60 shipped + 2hr of your labor v.s $400 if it's being done by the shop.

In my experience, when the coolant's sipping off the weep hole, it's time to rebuild because the mechanical seal is already failing!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Great write up, thanks! :thumbup:

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

the water pump is clean no coolant drop or leak. However I found a very rare ddrop of oil coming out from the water bump housing & engine contact (I could confirm oil is not coming from the weep hole).

My previous water bump rebuild was replacing all the possible failed part, seals ..etc part#7,4,3,2,11

Is it taking time so the part 11 o-ring will expand and bond to seal off? It's the brand new part 11 o-ring I replaced during the water bump rebuild process.

Thanks for any input and advice!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

According to the manual, that 0-ring requires "lithium soap based grease" applied.

If it was applied, I'd check for any crap under there, perhaps the o-ring twisted up on installation. I'd also re-check and tighten to spec's.

Please post how it goes..:thumbup:

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

According to the manual, that 0-ring requires "lithium soap based grease" applied.

If it was applied, I'd check for any crap under there, perhaps the o-ring twisted up on installation. I'd also re-check and tighten to spec's.

Please post how it goes..:thumbup:

My bad, I did apply the grease on the cover's O-ring but well...I didn't apply the grease on the water bump's o-ring argghhh,,I just applied some engine oil on that o-ring...but the grease..

Is it possible to re-use that o-ring again if I open up the water bump again to correct this mistake?

Thanks,
jh

Parts are cheap, I already ordered two O-rings just in case I have to open them up to apply the grease properly onto the O-rings...cost me $18 but gotta do it,,I hate leaking!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My bad, I did apply the grease on the cover's O-ring but well...I didn't apply the grease on the water bump's o-ring argghhh,,I just applied some engine oil on that o-ring...but the grease..

Is it possible to re-use that o-ring again if I open up the water bump again to correct this mistake?

Thanks,
jh

Parts are cheap, I already ordered two O-rings just in case I have to open them up to apply the grease properly onto the O-rings...cost me $18 but gotta do it,,I hate leaking!

I would think it'd be ok but some petroleum based products sometimes affect rubber parts in bad ways.

IMO, as long as it isn't pinched, pop it off, wipe it clean then re-assemble.

Worse case scenerio, you get to but a new o-ring and install with just the grease...

**Seeing you have new seals coming anyway, I'd just wait for them to arrive and do it once more and be done with it...:thumbup:

 

[ozgurakman]

your pump looks ok, I replaced mechanical seal and other things on mine and your's not looks like my bike's pump. Mine was worse but it's so fine now.

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Can I use the lithium grease in the Walmart or autozone? I opened up the water pump today and checked that's everything ok, no water on the bearing (so the rebuild is good), no oil on the water pump side (so rebuild works well).

I re-assembled the water bump but I had only Mobile 1 Synthetic grease in the morning so I applied the Mobile 1 synthetic grease on the o-rings of water pump and the housing.

There is still little oil coming out but I notice it leaks out whenever I start the bike.

is it because of the excessive oil? I tested a few engine ignition and the oil was sipping out whenever the engine start but not whenever unload/loaded rev or riding.

Any thoughts?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Does the shaft the seal rides on look nice and smooth, no nicks, straight, etc? I gather if the one seal has a SS spring inside it, it didn't come loose/dislodge and all the edges are seated properly?

You can pretty much assemble with spit and it won't leak...

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

Does the shaft the seal rides on look nice and smooth, no nicks, straight, etc? I gather if the one seal has a SS spring inside it, it didn't come loose/dislodge and all the edges are seated properly?
You can pretty much assemble with spit and it won't leak...

Thanks Scott! I noticed in the beginning of the rebuilding, the new O-ring (part#11) is not tight fit to the thread...is it normal? the old o-ring which I threw away was tight fit and couldn't turn the o-ring by hand when it wrapped in the thread. The new o-ring as I installed at first was kinda loose. It's the right part# 11 that I ordered (I checked a few ebay thread of used water pump, its o-ring seems to be tight fit!).

I'm pretty sure that no oil in the weep hole in the morning as I checked. So the oil leak's coming on the side. I didn't open up the impeller this morning to check. And I assumed it's all good as no water on the oil side and no oil on the water side. I just don't like that oil leak arghhh.

I will do another thorough check in the weekend to see why it's leaking.

I remember I was wiggling the water pump when pushing it into the engine. It could be why the seal was moving, stripping away from the thread cause the oil leaks (I guessed)

I will update again how it goes - thanks for your help Scott and anyone on this thread!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That new part should fit as tight as the old the old one. I suspect that may be your issue. If you have the old one, I'd put that one back in and see what happens.

**As I understand, you are using OEM YAMAHA parts, NOT Chinese knock off's / unknown make parts correct?

Some aftermarket parts that "fit" are not a well fitting as OEM equipment...

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

That new part should fit as tight as the old the old one. I suspect that may be your issue. If you have the old one, I'd put that one back in and see what happens.

**As I understand, you are using OEM YAMAHA parts, NOT Chinese knock off's / unknown make parts correct?

Some aftermarket parts that "fit" are not a well fitting as OEM equipment...

Yes, I ordered from Partzilla, parts selection for 2007 FZ6SWC
Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6WC WATER PUMP Diagram

I'm wondering if it's the part defective issue....unfortunately I don't have the ol O-ring to test with it

Hope I can fix this oil leak this weekend...arghhh what a burden!

Scott,
Maybe you can help me to get it right on the manual for the oil seal installation. I assembled/pushed the oil seal down from the bearing side (the surface with yellow paint faced downward). However as I read the manual, it seems the oil seal needs to be push from the inside of the water pump, not sure If it's right but the manual little confuses me. (it was saying bearing to install first and then the oil seal. If the bearing is installed first, the only way to install the oil seal is to push it from inside out...)

if that is the case, it can be the reason the oil leak. should it be ok if I part the bearing, mechanical seal, and re-assembled (of course re-use the mechanical seal) the oil seal from the water bump housing's inner side?

Thanks for your help Scott!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yes, I ordered from Partzilla, parts selection for 2007 FZ6SWC
Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6WC WATER PUMP Diagram

I'm wondering if it's the part defective issue....unfortunately I don't have the ol O-ring to test with it

Hope I can fix this oil leak this weekend...arghhh what a burden!

Scott,
Maybe you can help me to get it right on the manual for the oil seal installation. I assembled/pushed the oil seal down from the bearing side (the surface with yellow paint faced downward). However as I read the manual, it seems the oil seal needs to be push from the inside of the water pump, not sure If it's right but the manual little confuses me. (it was saying bearing to install first and then the oil seal. If the bearing is installed first, the only way to install the oil seal is to push it from inside out...)

if that is the case, it can be the reason the oil leak. should it be ok if I part the bearing, mechanical seal, and re-assembled (of course re-use the mechanical seal) the oil seal from the water bump housing's inner side?

Thanks for your help Scott!

I PM'ed you with some info from the manual and well as how the seals (directions) should be installed... Hopefully that'll help..:thumbup: