Magnetic sump plug, not worth the packaging it came in.

[Chephren]

Hi guys and gals I hope you're all well?

I thought I'd post to save you from possibly wasting money on a magnetic sump plug.

I bought one from eBay for £7 and the magnet is so weak it won't even stick to my fridge and barely lifts a 10mm long screw!
If they're all like this they're a waste of time.

I've found a better and cheaper way of achieving the same goal, neodymium magnets. I've attached 6 round magnets 8mmX4mm to each side of the hexagon head of standard sump plug and they're a massive amount stronger than the turd that arrived from eBay, they'll magnetize the original plug with enough strength to actually catch any stray particles.

I won't know for sure until the next oil change but I'm 100% more confident with my fix than I would be with the mag plug I bought.
There's no worry of the magnets falling off either, they stick like sh1t to a blanket so it'll take a serious incident for them to fall off.

I don't know if it'll help or if you'll trust it but I'm giving it a go, gonna be better than having nothing that's for sure.

Take care guys, stay safe

 

[erburtt]

I actually never thought of putting the magnets on the outside of the drain plug. On my vintage bike I was toying with the idea of putting a magnet on the inside of the plug after I did a rebuild, I decided against it since I was afraid the heat would weaken the magnet and it would fall off/run amok inside the engine... I'll be putting some magnets on the outside now, Thanks for the idea haha

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If you pick up the rear differential drain plug, (NOT fill) to an FJR, their magnetic (have a magnetic insert) and should fit...


Part #28;

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/sear...004/FJR1300+-+FJR1300S/DRIVE+SHAFT/parts.html

 

[Nelly]

Excuse my stupidity but how do I work out the price of #28?

Nelly

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Excuse my stupidity but how do I work out the price of #28?

Nelly

Hey Neil, where have you been??


Anyway, on that link, there's TWO slide bars on the right.

The inside bar will slide up and down for the part # and prices. It's $22.72 at Partzilla

 

[Nelly]

I've been lurking lots, not to much in the way of new topics being posted recently.
Hope your well,
Nelly

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've been lurking lots, not to much in the way of new topics being posted recently.
Hope your well,
Nelly

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

Glad your good... Go break something bad, then post!!!!

 

[Nelly]

That's entirely possible.

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[lurch676]

Hey Nelly - they're not meant to be able to pick up larger peices of metal - it's for collecting the tiny shards that float around and contaminate your oil and get spread around the engine. Don't worry that it won't pick up a bolt. Chuck it on next time you change the oil and forget abut it till you change the oil again and then have a look at how effective it's been

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You can also just attach a magnet to the exterior of your steel oil filter.

The only downside is your not EASILY able to get to it and see if there's any crap attached to it...

In most cases, you won't find much if anything on the magnetic plug but should there be an internal engine issue, that magnetic plug will be one of the first places of evidence you'll have.

 

[Nelly]

I was thinking of out more among the lines of preventative medicine.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

This is the filter I use and it has a built in magnet. I get more of a gray sludgy film on it than anything.

And when I clean the filter into a super clean tray, I can see if there's anything bad floating about (W/O the headache of cutting up a filter). Yes, its expensive but its already paid for itself...

Technical Information | K and P Engineering

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

This is the filter I use and it has a built in magnet. I get more of a gray sludgy film on it than anything.

And when I clean the filter into a super clean tray, I can see if there's anything bad floating about (W/O the headache of cutting up a filter). Yes, its expensive but its already paid for itself...

Technical Information | K and P Engineering

There's one local dealer that is selling this but ain't sure it's the same company that you have listed. Just to check what what do you use to remove it? The standard oil filter wrench? Also, for the cleaning do you use petrol or etc? Thanks!

 

[Plymothian]

I just ordered a magnetic sump plug from Wemoto - cost about 6GBP so next oil change I will compare magnet strength and post back. I'm not really concerned about it that much, but needed new crush washer anyway and the original plug is a bit chewed (from previous owner, honest guv)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

There's one local dealer that is selling this but ain't sure it's the same company that you have listed. Just to check what what do you use to remove it? The standard oil filter wrench? Also, for the cleaning do you use petrol or etc? Thanks!

It comes with its own stamped steel oil filter socket (3/8's drive). That cup fits MUCH better than on a steel throw away filter as the aluminum is EXTREMELY stout.

As for cleaning, pop off the filter, rotate 1/3 and the filters out. I spray from the inside out with brake cleaner and catch what comes out should there be any crap. I blow dry with the compressor or you can let it air dry and re-assemble. As it dries, the engine drains and doesn't take long at all...

I torque the filter and drain plug both to 12 ft lbs..

BTW, it works as a oil cooler too

I don't know any one else who makes this but mine is a K&P at that link...


*I had another one on my old FJR. When I sold the bike, the new owner paid an additional $100 for it (I had a spare K&N filter for it, same for the FZ)


Slightly off topic, for my Yamaha outboard engine (F150 hp), I bought a Yamaha oil change kit, oil, filter, washer. The drain bolt is EXACTLY the same size as the FZ. The washer that came with the kit is NOT a crush washer(earlier washers were, like the bike), but now is a solid aluminum washer (re-usable). Again, I torque down both to 12' lbs. There's NOT the slow, "is it going to strip the threads" feeling. It torques down immediately, solid (nice and dry BTW)...
.

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

Nice, thanks for the info. Will look into it for the oil filter. I don't really use any magnetic sump plug on my ride, but reused my old strong tankbag magnets and stuck it on the normal oil filter. It feels effective that way as recommended by a few friends and mechs here.

A frequent boatman townsend? Impressive. [emoji106] [emoji106]

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Nice, thanks for the info. Will look into it for the oil filter. I don't really use any magnetic sump plug on my ride, but reused my old strong tankbag magnets and stuck it on the normal oil filter. It feels effective that way as recommended by a few friends and mechs here.

A frequent boatman townsend? Impressive. [emoji106] [emoji106]

Your welcome.

And yes, magnets just stuck to the steel filter will work too.

The boats a 1997 demo I bought new (way back). I re-powered in 2007 with the four stroke (big $'s ) Yamaha uses many of the same systems on both the outboards and the bikes. The HP fuel pump is inside literally a carb(vs your fuel tank) under the cowl, uses TPS for the FI, fuel rail, etc.. I can go out all day on 5 gallons (way better than a two stroke) but with a built in 50 gallon tank, its an issue to try and keep fresh fuel (it'll go stale W/O stabilizer). Its on my lift in the back yard under the canopy. I don't use it as much as I'd like, but being on a canal, its my second toy(the FZ #1).

Pic before the canopy install and the re-power:

 

[Z3R0_zhift]

Seems like a good investment for a regular Fisher. These are costly ere plus tax, parking, yearly commission and etc. It's good to know that some of the things can be used for bikes and boats. There's no canals but sewages mostly on the mainland.

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[DruGus]

I bought one from eBay for £7 and the magnet is so weak it won't even stick to my fridge and barely lifts a 10mm long screw!

Really ? It's a great advice.:thumbup: