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New clutch, still slipping

mrgamorris

mrgamorris

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I have a 1995 FZR600. I recently put a new clutch in my bike cause the other clutch was slipping. I replace the friction plates, steel plates, and springs. Also i put a new clutch cable on. Ok..i followed the instruction from the service manual. Meaning torque specs and putting the friction plates in oil for 20 to 30 mins.. Clutch cable is adjusted to the manuals specs as well. After all that my clutch is still slipping. Gears are changing ok...but it's slips when i hit it. Revs up in all gears.....anyone have any ideal what the problem could be? :confused:
 
if the lever on the trans case has free play (it can move inspite of cable adjustment) and it slips, its seems you need to open it again.

Picture this; if the springs and all the pressure plates run out of travel before applying the proper force to the friction material its going to slip. By run out of travel I mean, springs at the end of travel making them too weak for the job or physical limits about the drum that keep the dissimilar materials from mating properly. Pictures would help about now as this is difficult to explain.

Did you buy it this way? Has it ever been worked on before?? IF IT USED to be OK and no parts are missing thats GOOD. LetsASSUME it has the right number of steels and frictions. IF so, are they the correct thickness? If they are NOT the correct thickness than maybe its the wrong part(s)?

If they are the correct thickness; maybe a shim is missing? THat is the combined height of all the clutches and steels can sometimes be adjusted to correct this condition when setting up the clutch. Does a shim exist for your modle and/or is it missing?

More history and every detail about it and the tear down would help.
 
Last edited:
Looking at the parts fisch for your bike:

( Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 1995 FZR600RG CLUTCH Diagram ),

the actual release mechanism is on the left side of the bike. I'm taking it you assumed it correctly. If there were any alignment marks noted in the manual, their aligned as well.

Being there's a rod that travels thru the engine to push the clutch plates apart, I'd be looking real close at the release mechanism and get it spotless (regrease if it calls for it...)

It's possible with time/age, etc, gunk built up in there and isn't letting the rod retract fully. That alone will hold the plates apart and thus the clutch will slip. I know the much older smaller Yamaha's (At1's, DT's, etc) had a similar set up and needed cleaning.

Just curious, did you measure your old plates and/or see any discoloration/warping on the steels?

Were the old clutch springs within spec's?


Please post whatever you find repairs the bike.. :)
 
mrgamorris said:
I have a 1995 FZR600. I recently put a new clutch in my bike cause the other clutch was slipping. I replace the friction plates, steel plates, and springs. Also i put a new clutch cable on. Ok..i followed the instruction from the service manual. Meaning torque specs and putting the friction plates in oil for 20 to 30 mins.. Clutch cable is adjusted to the manuals specs as well. After all that my clutch is still slipping. Gears are changing ok...but it's slips when i hit it. Revs up in all gears.....anyone have any ideal what the problem could be? :confused:
Click to expand...

The problem may be with the oil you are using, rather than the clutch plates, etc......

What brand and grade of engine oil are you using?
 
mrgamorris said:
SAE 10w40...
Click to expand...

You're going to have to be more specific as there are many flavors.
Specifically;
Recommended engine oil grade: API service SG type or higher, JASO standard MA. NO ENERGY CONSERVING

So read the label on the oil you put in and tell us what it says.
 
TownsendsFJR1300 said:
Looking at the parts fisch for your bike:

( Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 1995 FZR600RG CLUTCH Diagram ),

the actual release mechanism is on the left side of the bike. I'm taking it you assumed it correctly. If there were any alignment marks noted in the manual, their aligned as well.

Being there's a rod that travels thru the engine to push the clutch plates apart, I'd be looking real close at the release mechanism and get it spotless (regrease if it calls for it...)

It's possible with time/age, etc, gunk built up in there and isn't letting the rod retract fully. That alone will hold the plates apart and thus the clutch will slip. I know the much older smaller Yamaha's (At1's, DT's, etc) had a similar set up and needed cleaning.

Just curious, did you measure your old plates and/or see any discoloration/warping on the steels?

Were the old clutch springs within spec's?

Please post whatever you find repairs the bike.. :)
Click to expand...

I didn't measure my old plates..i installed new steel plates. There was no warping or discoloration on the the old steel plates. (replaced anyways) I just ordered New (ball screw housing asy) and push lever asy. Full of build up and rusting.
 
mrgamorris said:
I didn't measure my old plates..i installed new steel plates. There was no warping or discoloration on the the old steel plates. (replaced anyways) I just ordered New (ball screw housing asy) and push lever asy. Full of build up and rusting.
Click to expand...

Yes, that could definitly keep the release mechanism sticking.

Please post your results / final fix...
 
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