Oil filter life question

[Ninja Apprentice]

So I have done a search on the site and a google search to find a answer but most answers I found were 7-10 years old.

The quick story...I have been running K&N oil filter and Rotella T6 5w-40 for almost 2500 miles. Bike is almost due for an oil change. Would it be a bad thing to run the oil filter another 2500 miles or is that just crazy thinking by me.

The reason why I want to do this is money has gotten a little tight right now. 10-17 dollars (Depending on where I get it from) for another K&N right now could go to something a little more important.

I have always changed the oil and filter out at the same time but it seems like I'm not even using half the life of the filter. My Ninja 250r I would change both at the same time because it was not uncommon to run it at 9000-10,000 RPM's (Max RPM's was about 13,500 or 14,000 if I remember correctly) for an hour on the freeway.

I'm just trying to sort out my thoughts.

Thank You.

 

[FinalImpact]

IIRC the OEM service interval allows for this. A filter every other OCI.
You might look up WIX or NAPA. NAPA rebrands the WIX filter and IMO both are good products and less expensive. Usually about $7 - $9. They dont have the nut on them.

Look in your owners manal and be warned about the pan bolt. Tight enough to stay and not leak. OEM spec only applies with a A NEW CRUSH Washer and dry oil free threads.

 

[raja777m]

Purolator Classic Oil Filter, L14612- $3.27 at walmart and the oil, ~7$ per Quart*.
Similar price in your state too.
Anyway, what kind of usage do you have,
I ride less than 10 miles per day with 2 cold/(high RPM) starts, and 100-300miles per every other weekend. I definitely need to change my oil less than 4000 miles.

And I do some aggressive riding like 0-60mph at empty intersections when light turns green (I have a couple of them which are really big, but empty intersections), I do touch 9k RPM once I hit the interstate, etc,.

I see you've read these two links already
http://www.600riders.com/forum/oil-threads/37703-your-oil-change-intervals.html
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/13197-oil-filter-numbers.html
I still went through this page last week to find the oil filter. Since the bike is from that decade, I prefer to follow the same.

*
I like Quart bottles, because, they are easier to calculate, than getting out of a Gallon; Quarts are sealed until I use, and I don't my oil change, as I don't have a garage or a shady place in my apartment complex.

 

[adberns]

You will be fine. The service schedule is for the filter to be changed every other time as well (8000 miles). In modern engines it is unlikely you will load a filter up in such a short amount of time anyway. I plan to run my current filter (Fram Ultra) for at least 8000 miles (I change oil around the same intervals as you).

One more thing -- you didn't mention how many miles were on the bike. If you put the filter on when the bike was still breaking in (less than 1000 miles) then I would change the filter.

 

[beatle]

You probably don't even need to change the oil. T6 is great synthetic oil.

 

[VEGASRIDER]

The oil filter is less than $10, usually closer to around $5 if you use the Purolator's which you can pretty much at any autoparts store, or like Walmart. . I just make it a habit to install a new filter with every oil change.

 

[payneib]

The oil filter is less than $10, usually closer to around $5 if you use the Purolator's which you can pretty much at any autoparts store, or like Walmart. . I just make it a habit to install a new filter with every oil change.

This, pretty much all this. In fact, this is how I plan all my maintenance. For example, fork seals: if you're dropping the lowers off to change your fork oil, might as well chuck some new seals on there too. If you're already doing one thing and another can be done at the same time for minimal cost and time, why not?

 

[Ninja Apprentice]

Thank you everybody for the help! I think this time I am going to just change the oil and drain plug gasket and call it good. Also I think I am going to start using a Wix after my next oil change.

The bike has 21,500 mile on it so not new.

 

[vinmansbrew]

I am sure someone might take exception to this, but I just use the fram powersport filters. About the sam price as the purolator. Sorry but I am not concerned with the findings of people with zero scientific knowledge and methods, cutting a filter open and thinking something is bad. I guess I don't believe everything I see on the net.Blah I have used fram filters on my cars/trucks and bikes for over 20 years and have not had 1 single failure from either their spin-on or cartridge filters.
I also always use rotella 5-40 in my bikes. It will last well over 2500 miles. It will do that mileage easy on my cb as well.

 

[Ninja Apprentice]

Well...I think i am going to change my plans.

I went out and checked my oil level today and well..The level looked good and the oil color looked great! I know that you cant tell how good oil is by the color but DANG. The 250r would be completly black at this point in its life. Fz6 is just moderatly brown. Oil has 2,700 miles on it. I think I may just top it off and run it till 3,500-4,000 Oil Change Intervals at this rate. Amazing differance between the bikes.

 

[FinalImpact]

Main reason i have steered away from less expensive filters is that i found the anti-drainback valve failed on many of them. Meaning, when filter install is above the sump pickup level and gravity allows the filter to empty itself over time, those first few revs when cold start occurs, there is NO LUBRICATION to the reciprocating parts as the filter was empty and oil pump is filling it before the internals receive lubricant.

Its not science when oil filter has no oil in it because it drained into the oil sump. Which, in the case of the FZ is not an issue as the filter is equal tl the oil level.

 

[vinmansbrew]

I really doubt there is any hard evidence of that though. Sure, it may sound like an issue, but given that on most vehicles, it is impossible to fully fill the filter and put it on. Not only that but until oil pressure actually occurs, the oil in the filter isn't going anywhere anyways. After all, you still have to have pressure to push the oil out of the filter.

As for "less expensive" a fram isn't really any less expensive or less quality than pretty much any other off-the-shelf- filter. Not to mention that the valve can fail on even the most expensive filter. If a person truly was concerned about this, then a housing that has the valve built into it, and using cartridge filters; is the better choice.

It is your choice what you do, but there is still no real proof that fram filters are worse than others, and no real scientific testing to show accelerated wear on start-up from a primed filter Vs. an unprimed filter. To do such a test would take a very long time as you would have to start the engines, cause you need 2 at least, then stop them almost right aways. Then repeat that for who knows how long. After all, you have to allow a minimum of hours for oil to drain back and not leave the barest of coatings.

Honestly, the type of oil and frequency of changes is going to be more important. And if anything, there are always labs like blackstone that can test your oil.