Oil warning light

[vinmansbrew]

So, pulled the bike out and managed to ride it with last years oil in it before we had rain for almost a month straight. No problems, no issues, nothing wrong.

Changed oil and ran around block, no problem. Same oil as used last year, rotella t6 5-40 synthetic. Before someone tries to point to this, know that it is jaso-ma certified.

Finally replaced the original stock battery, it is from 2006 at least.
Took a ride around the block, bam oil light comes on. Shut it down, start again and around the block, no oil light. Things clear up enough and are actually hitting 40 this morning, time to ride to work. Make it down the street, oil light on. Shut down while coasting and bump start, light out. Make it about 1.5 miles, light on again. Shut down and bump start, no light. Take frontage road home and watch for light. Make it home, no light.

RPM and speed do not seem to matter. Doesn't seem to be a particular length of time for the light as I was going faster on interstate than frontage road. 80>65 mph, in town about 25.

Oil level checked on center stand is not low, if anything, maybe just a hair high about the crosshatch marks. Battery is new, it is a cheapo battery but it is an agm and required acid to be added to activate it. Charged to full and resting voltage after 24 hours was 12.97 volts. It spins the starter very well.

Engine does not sound different, though that doesn't always mean anything.
I could put the old battery back in but if it were the battery, I would think I would notice other issues as well such as other indicator lights or something else on the display.

I might think the oil if it wasnt the same oil I use in all my bikes. But then, you never know. But I don't want to just change oil without checking everything else out first, why waste it.

I checked my manual, it is for 07 but o6 wasnt that different. Not much mentioned.

I guess after the wall of text, is there a way to check the top end easily to see if oil is getting to it? Also, anyone else have an issue with the sensor going out or something similar? I want to test things before I just start throwing money at the bike.

Thanks all.

 

[redballs]

I would look at the seating of the oil filter first, ensure it was installed properly.

 

[vinmansbrew]

Well, I am not sure what could be messed up with that. It is tight and does not leak. Maybe a faulty filter, not allowing enough flow. that's the only thing I can think of.

Looking at a past thread I just found, the oil light isn't for pressure, but level. Is it really that sensitive to oil the being about 2 MM above the full line would make this happen?

 

[iSteve]

Are you sure it's level and not pressure, that doesn't sound right.

If you have too much oil it will foam up when riding and cause low oil pressure. Try draining a little oil out.

 

[vinmansbrew]

According to what people are saying in this thread, it is an oil level light.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/3181-oil-warning-light-after-oil-change.html

The manual also makes reference to a oil level switch. So I am kinda inclined to believe that is what the light is for.

 

[regder]

Had the oil level light come on a couple times on my bike this year as well, went away once the engine warmed up. Started a thread a few months back that had some good replies

The light is an indicator of low oil level, not pressure. If you've checked the level and it's fine, I wouldn't worry too much about it. If you must, you can change the sensor, or take it out and see if it's sticking, it's on the underside of the oil pan.

I sold my bike before I had a chance to properly look into it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The oil light, which is connected to a sensor (see below parts fisch) in the bottom of your oil pan is NOT OIL PRESSURE RELATED.

It is strictly an "oil level" if you would. Hard acceleration may make it activate, it doesn't sense the oil as it sloshes back into the engine while you accelerate hard.

Most likely, the issue is with the switch itself, malfunctioning.

Two bolts to R&R, part #10:

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W ELECTRICAL 1 Diagram

 

[vinmansbrew]

Sooooooo, once I got home and checked things out, I decided that I needed to be more patient when doing oil changes. See, I am used to adding oil and checking level immediately. Having bikes with oil tanks and dry sumps gets you used to that.

Apparently, having oil only halfways up the dip stick is not good enough. Still in the cross hatches mind you, but too low for the switch to be happy.

Added oil and unless the switch is totally bad now, the light stays out.

So, memo to future self if I come on here to ask the same question, WAIT 5 minutes and check level!

 

[Wildcat_drvr]

While changing oil and filter this spring I left key on and my oil level light went out while putting the 2nd quart of oil in,about 1-1/2 quarts is all it takes to have light off.So if you see the light on it means you only have about half of the oil you should!
Rich

 

[vinmansbrew]

Considering it was a fresh gallon of oil and I initially put in 3 quarts... AS I said, it was on the stick, halfways up the crosshatch. Maybe your 08 is different. And to finish bring it up, I put in less than half a quart. For a grand total of about 3.5 quarts of oil. So no, it wasn't that low.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just as a side note/tip which I've posted before.


My oil level is at the top end of the hash marks when checked normally.

As finicky as the level is (by a couple of minutes, temp, etc, a PIA), I have a procedure for checking cold, parked in its normal spot in the garage, on the side stand:

With bike sitting as posted above, my hash marks on the dip stick, when checked is between 1/3 and 1/2 way up the hash marks, dead cold, sitting there.

No guessing, no changing levels with time. Just don't move the bike AT ALL before hand.

It doesn't burn or leak but I'll check it probably once a week..

 

[oaks]

Considering it was a fresh gallon of oil and I initially put in 3 quarts... AS I said, it was on the stick, halfways up the crosshatch. Maybe your 08 is different. And to finish bring it up, I put in less than half a quart. For a grand total of about 3.5 quarts of oil. So no, it wasn't that low.

Weird. It's only meant to take 2.8 L (2.96 US quarts) of oil with a filter change. Typically I'll only need to put in a bit less than that to get it to the full mark as measured on the center stand.

 

[vinmansbrew]

See, now my manual, granted for 2007, says 3.5 quarts with filter. I don't think the 2007 is much different engine-wise from my 2006.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

See, now my manual, granted for 2007, says 3.5 quarts with filter. I don't think the 2007 is much different engine-wise from my 2006.

I also have an 07. In my owners manual, page 6-13, WITH filter change, it calls for 2.96 US qt

The amounts should be the same from 2004 thru 2009

If you read 3.5 quarts somewhere, its very possible on a brand new, DRY, BRAND NEW ENGINE (oil never in it from the factory).

They'll always be a residual amount of oil in the engine, oil passages, crank, etc that will remain un-less the engine is broken down 100% and wiped clean..

Anyones thats pulled an engine even partially apart (after draining the oil) will ALWAYS have an oil slick (or lots of newspapers soaking up oil) under the engine (residual oil)..


After at least a week (waiting for parts) my old KLR 250, oil drained, you can still see residual oil at the bottom of the crankcase:

Double click to enlarge

 

[oaks]

This is from a 2007 service manual. Don't know, maybe you did a more thorough job draining the oil than most. Anyway, your bike seems fine and the dip stick shows it's good.

 

[vinmansbrew]

That's it Oaks, page 2-2 in my manual.

When I change, I usually let things sit for a while and try to get out as much as possible. My leave any more old oil in than you need to.

Heck, this time I didn't even hit the starter(with kill switch off) to get more oil out. I have gotten as much as half a quart out with a couple quick taps of the starter to move things.

Overall my mistake was thinking that as long as the oil is on the hatches, it was not low and in operating range.

 

[trepetti]

A thought just occurred to me. When you check the oil are you screwing in the dipstick? The manual clearly states to just insert it without threading it in. If you are screwing it in you will be showing a higher level than actually exists. This may account for the light coming on when the level seems high enough.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A thought just occurred to me. When you check the oil are you screwing in the dipstick? The manual clearly states to just insert it without threading it in. If you are screwing it in you will be showing a higher level than actually exists. This may account for the light coming on when the level seems high enough.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Just to add to the above, get the dip stick in and out quickly.

If you hold it there for say 30 seconds, the oil will weep UP the stick, showing a higher level than whats really in there..