Radiator - Need advice

[HottyToddy]

1st time poster, long time lurker! I recently acquired an '06 FZ6. The story I got was that the driver "fell asleep" while riding one night. I've been riding all sorts of bikes for almost 40 years, and to date, I have yet had the inclinling of even dosing off during a ride, so I must sumise that there were other factors involved with this wreak. The bike has been in a garage for about 2-3 years. I am also currently working on getting all the necessary parts needed to fix the bike, most importantly the ignition swich which is OEM and on its way, so I can atleast see if this bike will even turn over since the person I got the bike from had lost the keys.

I'm getting a new gas tank as it was dented from the wreck, so there will not be any contaminates in the fuel system, however I am concerned about the radiator. While no visable signs show of any damage, what should I do in order to flush it out, and possibly get rust (assuming it is in there) out?

Should there be an issue with the engine itself, has anyone done a cost analyst on buying a referbished motor, or simply rebuilding it yourself? Should you rebuild it yourself, can you increase the horsepower of the engine itself?

Thanks for all of your insites on this matter!

 

[FinalImpact]

Flush garden hose to fill neck (dont force it to seal) and pull off the hose at the water pump.

Because your engine is cold, the thermostat will be closed so flushing the block is slower as the stat has a small bleed hole allowing limited water flow. You can flush the block from the open hose. Install cap and fit garden hose loosely to open rubber hose.

Household water pressures can be 40 to 60+ psi and this will explode a radiator so do NOT allow pressure to build from hose/house connection.

I would do this once you get the engine to start and run as you'll want to fill will distalled water and seal the system. Let it come up to temp ride it and then flush that.

As for the engine - either pull the spark plugs and add oil like 5 to 7cc BEFORE CRANKING IT OVER to lube the rings and cylinder walls. This will reduce scuffing as the cylinders are dry of oil. Of course this will cause it to blow some blue smoke when you do start it and thats ok!

An alternative is adding about 10cc to open throttle bodies. Not as direct but an option.

After sitting for 3 years Id pull the plugs.

Lets talk engine swap later. Sufice it to say it would not be cost effective to rebuild it.

 

[HottyToddy]

Thanks man for your advice! I have some R6 forks coming to me, I have read that they make a world of difference, what says you?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just to add, when you put some oil into the cylinders, leave the plugs out, stick it in gear.

Then rotate the engine with the wheel to slowly get the oil all about W/O it spinning quickly.

The connector for the ignition switch is under the battery, so you'll be digging under there..

Also, (if not removed yet), the ignition switch is bolted to the triple with "sheared off head" bolts.
If you pull the upper triple(support the bike under under the header), then flip the triple over and
re-clamp to the fork legs (so it'll support the triple while you drill the head off the two bolts).

Re the engine, its pretty much bullet proof.
If he just wrecked (and didn't bust off any engine mounts), the engine should be fine..

 

[FinalImpact]

World of difference is an understatement! Install them ASAP!

FWIW: the lower triple is there and tight. No need to block bike under the headers for drilling.