seansi
Junior Member
So I replaced the tires last week and the brakes aren't as firm as they use to be. Will bleeding them solve the problem?
Replaced tires, squishy brakes
ChanceCoats123
Junior Member
Bleeding and changing the fluid (if it hasn't been changed in a couple years) would definitely be good. Brake fluid has a very low compression index, but it likes to attract water, which compresses a bit more. So if the fluid is old, or if air got introduced into the lines, then a bleed will do you good.
In the name of curiosity - did you take the bike to the dealer to get the tires changed or did you remove the wheels and take just them?
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If you problem is not hydraulic....
When you remove the wheel and the brakes pads have been taken out, the pads should be put back in the same position as the came from in the calipers.
If not there will be a long break in period for the grooves to match from pad to rotor face. If this has happened you might re-work the pads on a flat surface with some 150 grit sandpaper or put new pads on. When I put new pads on, I break/chamfer the top and bottom radius of the pad with sand paper so that it seats to the rotor face a little quicker. This works really great for a quicker break in. Another source of poor brake feeling is that even when you put the pads back in the same position on the caliper you may experience less braking power. This can be due to the fine dust that forms and resides on the pad face being disturbed or removed. After a few miles this dust reforms and your brake will feel normal again. I've experienced this many times on my own as well as others bikes I've removed the pads on.
When you remove the wheel and the brakes pads have been taken out, the pads should be put back in the same position as the came from in the calipers.
If not there will be a long break in period for the grooves to match from pad to rotor face. If this has happened you might re-work the pads on a flat surface with some 150 grit sandpaper or put new pads on. When I put new pads on, I break/chamfer the top and bottom radius of the pad with sand paper so that it seats to the rotor face a little quicker. This works really great for a quicker break in. Another source of poor brake feeling is that even when you put the pads back in the same position on the caliper you may experience less braking power. This can be due to the fine dust that forms and resides on the pad face being disturbed or removed. After a few miles this dust reforms and your brake will feel normal again. I've experienced this many times on my own as well as others bikes I've removed the pads on.
seansi
Junior Member
I removed the wheels, dealer mounted tires. I hung the calipers with zip ties while I was getting them mounted.
seansi
Junior Member
If you problem is not hydraulic....
When you remove the wheel and the brakes pads have been taken out, the pads should be put back in the same position as the came from in the calipers.
If not there will be a long break in period for the grooves to match from pad to rotor face. If this has happened you might re-work the pads on a flat surface with some 150 grit sandpaper or put new pads on. When I put new pads on, I break/chamfer the top and bottom radius of the pad with sand paper so that it seats to the rotor face a little quicker. This works really great for a quicker break in. Another source of poor brake feeling is that even when you put the pads back in the same position on the caliper you may experience less braking power. This can be due to the fine dust that forms and resides on the pad face being disturbed or removed. After a few miles this dust reforms and your brake will feel normal again. I've experienced this many times on my own as well as others bikes I've removed the pads on.
I didn't touch the pads. Only removed calipers from rotors and hung them by zip ties while replacing the tires.
Fluids are less than 6 months old.
Maybe my pads are starting to wear out. I'll try to take some pictures.
Confirm ALL of the spacers are present. Hard to loose the front one, but some have lost parts to the rear.
In short, if the rotors are not staying in one place, (wheel not staying true from missing spacers), the calipers pistons(s) will have move to remove that freeplay and then once the pads seat on the rotor clamping force and friction slow the bike.
The front has two spacers which the dust seals ride on. The main bearing sapcer is captive and will not fall out unless the wheel bearings come out. The rear is more complex, but parts can and are lost. See drawing for details. But many have lost parts at the shop and not noticed during assembly. Even when using a torque wrench.
Ronayers.com boats.net for parts layout. Or http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/50116-2007-fz6-parts-reference-diagram-images-x46.html
Keep us posted!
In short, if the rotors are not staying in one place, (wheel not staying true from missing spacers), the calipers pistons(s) will have move to remove that freeplay and then once the pads seat on the rotor clamping force and friction slow the bike.
The front has two spacers which the dust seals ride on. The main bearing sapcer is captive and will not fall out unless the wheel bearings come out. The rear is more complex, but parts can and are lost. See drawing for details. But many have lost parts at the shop and not noticed during assembly. Even when using a torque wrench.
Ronayers.com boats.net for parts layout. Or http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/50116-2007-fz6-parts-reference-diagram-images-x46.html
Keep us posted!
Seansi, recovered from this?
