MitchellsFZ6
Truly obsessed with bikes
How to:
Chain Removal and Replacement
Prepared for: Everyone
Prepared by: Ben Mitchell
23 January 2014
Summary
Objective
The chain on my Yamaha FZ6 has lasted 24,000 miles, I'm pretty impressed with that. With summer quickly approaching and the bike sat there in the garage, I bought her some goodies.
I'm not trying to plug B and C Express but they were processing my order at 4 o'clock in the afternoon and it was at my door the next day, just saying
Tools
Just a quick list if all the things I needed to get my old chain off and my new Renthal chain on.
Chain De Linker and Riveter
Torque Wrench
30MM Socket (Front Sprocket), 15MM Socket (6 Bolts on Rear Wheel) and a 32MM Socket for the Rear Wheel Spindle.
Paddock Stand
Patient
Obviously that list is not exhaustive, you don't necessarily need the De Linking tool but if you need to Re Rivet the chain back together why not save the hastle of angle grinding it and just buy the set?!
Let's Get Started
I would start by removing the Left Hand Hanger, Gear Selector and Foot Peg.
Undo the Allen Key on the Gear Selector (under the Rubber Seal) Then undo the 2 Allen Bolts on the Hanger and then finally the 3rd Allen Bolt on the Hanger for the Gear Selector.
You should now have complete access to the Front Sprocket Cover on the engine, remove the 3 Allen Heads and this cover should come off with ease.
Grab your Extension Bar and take off the Lock Nut with a 30MM Socket. Put the bike into 2nd gear or grab someone to hold the brake down, whichever is easiest.
My chain and sprocket has never been changed, I ride my bike in any weather, so please excuse the state of the grime, haha.
I took the chance to loosen the Rear Sprocket Nuts, not alot but instead of having to lay the wheel down and possibly scratch it, I done it then.
I then took the rear wheel off by removing the 32MM Axle Nut. Pushing the Axle through and then pulling it out on the other side, now you can freely move the wheel, take the chain off and lay it on a rag on the Swing Arm.
Whilst the chain is free, I took my Chain Riveting Tool, removed one of the rivets and layed the chain out in a clean sheet up against my Renthal RS4 530 120 Link Chain.
Here is a picture of the kit I used. I bought this off eBay for £19, how can you complain, 2 year guarantee
Here is a picture of the wheel with the new 46 Tooth Rear Renthal Sprocket. I am very impressed with how this looks.
I ended up replacing the bolts and the washers as we'll, I got these straight from Tinklers.
At some point in the life of the bike the Chain Tensioner/ Bolt seized. So I had to drill this out, re thread it and then I could finally fit the new chain. I ordered a 120 Chain and then had to remove 2 links, when I mean 2 links
I mean the Inner and the Outer link, some people have recommended a 118 Link Chain, other people seem to recommend a 120 Link Chain. I would recommend everyone to grab the 120 just to be on the safe side, you can always remove them.
I installed the rear wheel back into the Swingarm and had to stand back and look at it for a little while.
Here's a picture of it so far.
I then got a bit carried away and got the chain riveted in, I hadn't tensioned it at this point.
When the chain arrived from Renthal it had a VERY sticky, white lube.
Be wary of this.
When you lay the chain flat, both ends of the chain are the Inner Links with the Roller Pin and Bush. In a small packet included with the chain is the OuterLink and Rivet Pins.
With your Chain ToolKit will be a tool to press the Rivet and Plate together.
Mine seemed to press one Rivet in further than the other, so I used the Chain Removal Tool to press the Rivet further in to make sure there was a complete seal and everything was even.
At this point, loosen off the Rear Spindle Nut and make sure you have your 12MM Spanner at the ready to start adjusting the chain.
All chains will stretch, especially new ones. Everyone I have known will tighten their chain to make sure theres 1 Inch of movement combined up and down, so 12MM up and 12MM down.
I have done mine to about 10MM up and 10MM down. I may adjust this when I started riding.
When you're adjusting your chain make sure you're doing it in stages, there are marking points on the inside of the Swing Arm block and always ensure that your wheel is pressed up against the blocks.
Here are a couple of pictures of it completed. Ignore the Stator Cover, I had a small Low Side and am waiting on a replacement sometime in the upcoming week.
I hope this guide was helpful, if you want any more pictures or guidance please don't hesitate to comment and ask, I've recently started using Pages and I quite like it
It won't be on my Renthal Chain but it WILL on a Motorbike chain, the methods are exactly the same.
Mitchell's FZ6.
Chain Removal and Replacement
Prepared for: Everyone
Prepared by: Ben Mitchell
23 January 2014
Summary
Objective
The chain on my Yamaha FZ6 has lasted 24,000 miles, I'm pretty impressed with that. With summer quickly approaching and the bike sat there in the garage, I bought her some goodies.
I'm not trying to plug B and C Express but they were processing my order at 4 o'clock in the afternoon and it was at my door the next day, just saying
Tools
Just a quick list if all the things I needed to get my old chain off and my new Renthal chain on.
Chain De Linker and Riveter
Torque Wrench
30MM Socket (Front Sprocket), 15MM Socket (6 Bolts on Rear Wheel) and a 32MM Socket for the Rear Wheel Spindle.
Paddock Stand
Patient
Obviously that list is not exhaustive, you don't necessarily need the De Linking tool but if you need to Re Rivet the chain back together why not save the hastle of angle grinding it and just buy the set?!
Let's Get Started
I would start by removing the Left Hand Hanger, Gear Selector and Foot Peg.
Undo the Allen Key on the Gear Selector (under the Rubber Seal) Then undo the 2 Allen Bolts on the Hanger and then finally the 3rd Allen Bolt on the Hanger for the Gear Selector.
You should now have complete access to the Front Sprocket Cover on the engine, remove the 3 Allen Heads and this cover should come off with ease.
Grab your Extension Bar and take off the Lock Nut with a 30MM Socket. Put the bike into 2nd gear or grab someone to hold the brake down, whichever is easiest.
My chain and sprocket has never been changed, I ride my bike in any weather, so please excuse the state of the grime, haha.
I took the chance to loosen the Rear Sprocket Nuts, not alot but instead of having to lay the wheel down and possibly scratch it, I done it then.
I then took the rear wheel off by removing the 32MM Axle Nut. Pushing the Axle through and then pulling it out on the other side, now you can freely move the wheel, take the chain off and lay it on a rag on the Swing Arm.
Whilst the chain is free, I took my Chain Riveting Tool, removed one of the rivets and layed the chain out in a clean sheet up against my Renthal RS4 530 120 Link Chain.
Here is a picture of the kit I used. I bought this off eBay for £19, how can you complain, 2 year guarantee
Here is a picture of the wheel with the new 46 Tooth Rear Renthal Sprocket. I am very impressed with how this looks.
I ended up replacing the bolts and the washers as we'll, I got these straight from Tinklers.
At some point in the life of the bike the Chain Tensioner/ Bolt seized. So I had to drill this out, re thread it and then I could finally fit the new chain. I ordered a 120 Chain and then had to remove 2 links, when I mean 2 links
I mean the Inner and the Outer link, some people have recommended a 118 Link Chain, other people seem to recommend a 120 Link Chain. I would recommend everyone to grab the 120 just to be on the safe side, you can always remove them.
I installed the rear wheel back into the Swingarm and had to stand back and look at it for a little while.
Here's a picture of it so far.
I then got a bit carried away and got the chain riveted in, I hadn't tensioned it at this point.
When the chain arrived from Renthal it had a VERY sticky, white lube.
Be wary of this.
When you lay the chain flat, both ends of the chain are the Inner Links with the Roller Pin and Bush. In a small packet included with the chain is the OuterLink and Rivet Pins.
With your Chain ToolKit will be a tool to press the Rivet and Plate together.
Mine seemed to press one Rivet in further than the other, so I used the Chain Removal Tool to press the Rivet further in to make sure there was a complete seal and everything was even.
At this point, loosen off the Rear Spindle Nut and make sure you have your 12MM Spanner at the ready to start adjusting the chain.
All chains will stretch, especially new ones. Everyone I have known will tighten their chain to make sure theres 1 Inch of movement combined up and down, so 12MM up and 12MM down.
I have done mine to about 10MM up and 10MM down. I may adjust this when I started riding.
When you're adjusting your chain make sure you're doing it in stages, there are marking points on the inside of the Swing Arm block and always ensure that your wheel is pressed up against the blocks.
Here are a couple of pictures of it completed. Ignore the Stator Cover, I had a small Low Side and am waiting on a replacement sometime in the upcoming week.
I hope this guide was helpful, if you want any more pictures or guidance please don't hesitate to comment and ask, I've recently started using Pages and I quite like it
It won't be on my Renthal Chain but it WILL on a Motorbike chain, the methods are exactly the same.
Mitchell's FZ6.
