Running bad.

bfgb

New Member
So, here's how it is. Coming home one day on the fz6 2 miles from work the bike started to play up. I could feel the bike wasn't responding as should. Throttling down it felt like the engine wanted to die. The more I rode the worse it got, engine response was bad until it wouldn't takeover at all. So the plugs have been changed( pain in the bum) and now a new rectifier. Well it runs slightly better but the problems still there. I thought of exhaust lamba sensor but I read 2005 don't have one. Any ideas people
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter


Might want to check the battery voltage as well as the charging voltage..
.
 

bfgb

New Member


Might want to check the battery voltage as well as the charging voltage..
.
I forgot to mention that the engine management light is coming on from time to time. As to poor fuel economy, I would like to be able to ride it far enough to tell. I am getting no fault codes come up.
 

bfgb

New Member
I forgot to mention that the engine management light is coming on from time to time. As to poor fuel economy, I would like to be able to ride it far enough to tell. I am getting no fault codes come up.
Today I have checked for error codes and tps reading's. Tps reads OK but 4 error codes. 12,15,30,46. 12 and15 refers to tps and crank sensor problem's.
 

trepetti

It's all good!
Elite Member
Site Supporter
It can be challenging to determine which codes are the cause and which are the symptoms. Per Scott's recommendation, look at code 46, low voltage. If voltage is low it will cause all sorts of unpredictable errors. Measure your static battery voltage first. If that is low, look at charging voltage. Multiple, simultaneous sensor problems are possible, but it is like all the lights in your neighborhood going out. Look for the common cause.

Good luck
 

bfgb

New Member
It can be challenging to determine which codes are the cause and which are the symptoms. Per Scott's recommendation, look at code 46, low voltage. If voltage is low it will cause all sorts of unpredictable errors. Measure your static battery voltage first. If that is low, look at charging voltage. Multiple, simultaneous sensor problems are possible, but it is like all the lights in your neighborhood going out. Look for the common cause.

Good luck
The mechanic i took the bike to replaced the reg/rec. Because it was faulty and under charging. He took it for a ride and said it ran sweet as a nut. So relieved me of £177. I pick the bike up (after garage was closed) and start it. I could straight away tell it wasn't right, a bit better but not right. A 5 mile ride home and it felt like it wanted to cut out. I had to keep revs up 3thou at least. At 30mph it felt like the engine was very hesitant. On return to home I let the revs drop and it cut out. It started after a few attempts, but only just. I spoke to the mechanic and relayed my concerns about the tps but he is very reluctant to consider this. He wants to replace the throttle bodies (second hand) and attached tps. He also is considering the coils. Any ideas?
 

Gary in NJ

Junior Member
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Perform an A/C voltage check of the stator. I would also load check the battery and inspect ground contacts for corrosion. This should have been done prior to swapping out the R/R. Your mechanic sounds like a lazy parts swapper...he will cost you a lot of money. I can almost guarantee you there is noting wrong with the TB, and a faulty TPS is less likely.
 
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trepetti

It's all good!
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Gary is spot-on... you have a parts swapper here. I post it a million times, step 1 in problem solving is figuring out the problem.

I don't know if you are comfortable with a multi meter, But if you are you NEED to do a voltage test and a charging system check. If you are not comfortable with a meter, all you need is a friend and some beer to get the info.

I recently had to diagnose and replace my stator. Because I am an Excel geek, I put together a spreadsheet where you plug in the values of your measurements and it tells you if the RR, stator or both are bad. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-11ZG_D-r7A3mA3qZHeEQYQ2nHeKnt3s/view?usp=sharing
 

bfgb

New Member
Great spreadsheet.

The thing to know about a parts-swapper mechanic is that they are never wrong. "Yeah, I changed that part and this part...but you needed them anyway because they were gonna fail". Yeah, right.
Well the latest update is i ran the bike under load after clearing the fault codes,and had the engine management light come up. So read it and it was fault 15 which is the tps. So I rang a main yamaha agent and checked if my bike had been recalled for a tps change. Turns out mine hadn't been done and still needed to be done FREE. So in 2 weeks its of to the dealer.
 

trepetti

It's all good!
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Well the latest update is i ran the bike under load after clearing the fault codes,and had the engine management light come up. So read it and it was fault 15 which is the tps. So I rang a main yamaha agent and checked if my bike had been recalled for a tps change. Turns out mine hadn't been done and still needed to be done FREE. So in 2 weeks its of to the dealer.
In post 4 you mentioned that 'Tps reads OK'. Did you test it with a multimeter or did you mean there were no tps-related codes? You need to get the TPS replaced per the recall, but you also want to make sure that is the problem......
 

bfgb

New Member
In post 4 you mentioned that 'Tps reads OK'. Did you test it with a multimeter or did you mean there were no tps-related codes? You need to get the TPS replaced per the recall, but you also want to make sure that is the problem......
There was a tps related code but I didn't know how recent it was thrown up. The tps reads OK was just a parameter check on the speedo. The original reply spoke of the symptoms of tps playing up. My bike ticked all those boxes. I have not done a multimeter test as it is all witchcraft to me. Thanks.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
The TPS can "check all he boxes" and still be bad...

When you checked it, besides checking the high and low #'s, did you check the numbers in-between? IE, no skipping, all #'s there?

.
 

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
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Interesting, and I've had this happen. A TPS can show good sweeping through it's range but not work correctly with the computer. The reason is probably noise that is created as the wiper travels on the resistive media. The DC component shows good on your ohm meter but there is static created that the computer tries to resolve as data and adjusts it's control output accordingly.
You can have an audio volume control that looks perfect on the ohm meter but it can be noisy in circuit. It passes the simple DC test but is generating noise through some or all of it's range.
A member on our forum needed help with their car running badly. The TPS showed good on the meter. We replaced it with a new one and that corrected the problem because it was noisy.
The engine only stumbled if we changed the position of the throttle which led me to believe it was a noise condition in the TPS.

Also, if you test the device with an oscilloscope you will see the noise but now we're getting into territory that most mechanics probably don't have resource to.
 
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trepetti

It's all good!
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Interesting, and I've had this happen. A TPS can show good sweeping through it's range but not work correctly with the computer. The reason is probably noise that is created as the wiper travels on the resistive media. The DC component shows good on your ohm meter but there is static created that the computer tries to resolve as data and adjusts it's control output accordingly.
You can have an audio volume control that looks perfect on the ohm meter but it can be noisy in circuit. It passes the simple DC test but is generating noise through some or all of it's range.
A member on our forum needed help with their car running badly. The TPS showed good on the meter. We replaced it with a new one and that corrected the problem because it was noisy.
The engine only stumbled if we changed the position of the throttle which led me to believe it was a noise condition in the TPS.

Also, if you test the device with an oscilloscope you will see the noise but now we're getting into territory that most mechanics probably don't have resource to.
If Scott had an oscilloscope, it would be shiny like his headers :)
 
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