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Need Help Stalling at Idle after warmed

cybanon

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I've got a 2006 FZ6 that I've been having idle issues on for a while now. Right now it runs fine for the first few minutes until it reaches the second temp bar. Then it starts bogging down with throttle, then drops RPM and stalls. I'm able to start it up, but it only runs for a few seconds, then abruptly cuts out. I've already addressed a few things:
  • New Spark plugs
  • Seafoam in the tank
  • Throttle body sync
  • TPS Sensor
  • Coolant flush
  • New air filter
  • New fuel pump and pressure regulator
  • Valve clearances
  • CO adjustment
  • New Battery/Regulator Rectifier
  • New Intake boots
I've looked around the forum and seen people talk about the IACV next to the sync block, can you clean that out/service it? Could there be anything else causing this issue? I feel like I'm not making any headway so suggestions are definitely appreciated.
 
A new member recently had a similar issue and it turned out to be the coils. I would suggest do a cold check of the primary and secondary and a hot check after it stalls. BTW, if the coil packs show any signs of cracking, they are failed.
 
Also check your fuel pressure. You may have a dirty internal fuel filter or the the fuel pump is failing to provide sufficient volume of fuel.
 
A new member recently had a similar issue and it turned out to be the coils. I would suggest do a cold check of the primary and secondary and a hot check after it stalls. BTW, if the coil packs show any signs of cracking, they are failed.
Just checked them, no signs of cracking. That was another system I threw parts at lol.
Also check your fuel pressure. You may have a dirty internal fuel filter or the the fuel pump is failing to provide sufficient volume of fuel.
Can I use the standard fuel pressure tester from my local auto parts store?
 
Harbor Freight makes a good Fuel Pressure kit that’s inexpensive
I'll go check that out, should be good to have around! Do I just make my own adapter out of some hose length and clamps then?
You need to get a multimeter on the leads and check resistance both hot and cold.
I didn't believe this was the issue, my apologies for doubting you Gary. The lower ignition coil tested good (3.1 Ohms Main/ ~14.5K Secondary), Upper one had 3.1Ohms on the main, and zero continuity on the secondary. Looks like I found my issue! Has anyone had any luck with Ebay Special coils? The ones in now are used OEMs and I've heard they're a common failure point on these bikes.

And happy Easter everyone!
 
I agree that buying 20 year old coils is a crap shoot. Of course so is eBay. Test them before you install and you should be OK.

I rebuilt a '80's vintage CB900 a few years ago. The bike needed new coils and using 40 year old coils didn't make sense so I modified late 90's vintage CBR600 coils to work...had to buy 4 to find two that matched.

If you search, one of our more active members (can't remember who) converted to a Coil-on-Plug (COP) system from an R6 and it was fairly straight forward. I wouldn't hesitate to do that conversion as I have done it on my DRZ400 Street Tracker.
 
Ordered some aftermarket coils for now, but I'm looking into the COP mod also. I've seen FZ-07 coils used too, and the wiring looks fairly simple. Other than that I'm gonna try cleaning out my tank tomorrow, and let you guys know how it runs with a new coil in a few days. Thank you!
 
Update: The bike is not dying at stoplights anymore, but I'm having a weird issue where the idle is much "weaker" after warming up. For the first few minutes riding around the block, it feels pretty normal. Once it gets to about the first bar of the temp gauge it returns to being hard to get moving from a stop without giving it about half throttle while letting the clutch out. It still idles around 1200-1380, sometimes dipping to 1000 for a second. Since I last posted I found the rubber mat heat shield that goes under the battery tray, so I put that in and replaced the other coil, but that didn't change the issue. This is my first 4 cylinder bike so maybe this is normal for it.
 
Hi cybanon,

I think I’m having a similar issue - the bike runs perfect when cold and when reaches 2-3 bars the RPMs start to sail.

Have you found any solution for this or does my issue resemble yours? (see my video below) Did you find a solution?

Somebody on this forum solved the problem by changing the coils.

I think I’ll start by cleaning throttle bodies, then TB sync and then take everything apart and check the coils. Maybe that helps.

 
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