Stalls When Put In Gear

[Gary in NJ]

Note that there are six each number 5 style and two each number 12 style friction plates and seven number 6 and one type 4 steel plates. Note their location…they have different thickness.

 

[Johnski]

Note that there are six each number 5 style and two each number 12 style friction plates and seven number 6 and one type 4 steel plates. Note their location…they have different thickness.

Yeah the 2 dark brown friction place go to the outsides and the bigger steel goes in the basket 1st

 

[Johnski]

UPDATE.............. Sort off

So I reassembled it all again for the 439th time, again I can see the pressure plate move and the wheel wont turn.......... However, if I keep the clutch lever pulled after a few seconds I can turn the wheel but it's got a decent amount of drag on it, I can turn it but it's definitely not easy to rotate.

Not sure if this means anything but thought I'd mention it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I've never done that "test" but would expect there to be some drag.
Between all the plates, there's a fair amount of CONTACT area, enough to
keep 90 HP from slipping to the rear wheel.

Maybe/probably not useful, BUT (for S & G' ), put a couple of plates/frictions on at a time
and see (with the clutch pressure plate OFF), by turning the center hub nut for any anomalies...

.

 

[Johnski]

So bought new verniers

When measuring the friction plates, do you measure the parts that stick out (I call them ears lol) or do you measure the pads in the plate?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So bought new verniers

When measuring the friction plates, do you measure the parts that stick out (I call them ears lol) or do you measure the pads in the plate?

The "pads" or thickest part..

.

 

[Johnski]

Well here's some measurements

Steels
1 @ 2.2mm
7 @ 2mm

Friction Plates
All 8 3-3.1mm

Springs
All 6 54mm

So all well within spec

 

[tuning-forks]

if I keep the clutch lever pulled after a few seconds I can turn the wheel but it's got a decent amount of drag on it, I can turn it but it's definitely not easy to rotate.

What kind of oil you gots?

 

[Johnski]

What kind of oil you gots?

I got this, it's fresh, also had a look at the clutch basket, pics attached, signs of wear, not sure if that's normal

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Does the inner basket spin freely (as shown)?

No binding / looseness?

.

 

[Johnski]

Does the inner basket spin freely (as shown)?

No binding / looseness?

.

Yeah nice and smooth.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You do have some wear on the outer basket.

Can you measure / post the high vs low thickness''?

It doesn't look bad enough to cause your major issue however,
If their really bad, it would hamper movement/releasing of the plates.

The fix for that would be another basket W/O the wear.

You could also lightly file smooth the high spots down.
That would help but you may have some slight additional noise from the clutch
(as there's now slightly more play between the basket and friction plates).



.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Yeah, there is wear but it’s trivial.

You mention that the plates are all within spec, but have they been checked for flatness? One warped plate can lock up the clutch.

 

[Johnski]

Yeah, there is wear but it’s trivial.

You mention that the plates are all within spec, but have they been checked for flatness? One warped plate can lock up the clutch.

All appear flat and level

 

[Johnski]

Another question............ Still stalls

If its in gear and I pull the clutch lever it should crank - yes? I ask because it doesn't, I've bridged the switch on the loom side and it still won't crank, I'm guessing the 2 issues are unrelated but god knows at this rate

 

[Gary in NJ]

Could this simply be a neutral safety switch issue? Check the wires at the kick stand.

 

[Johnski]

Could this simply be a neutral safety switch issue? Check the wires at the kick stand.

Tried that, also bridged those 2 at the loom lol

 

[tuning-forks]

If its in gear and I pull the clutch lever it should crank - yes?

Not if sidestand is down.