Stalls When Put In Gear

[Johnski]

So my bike stalls when you put it in gear, it jumps forward like the clutch isn't fly engaged, I've tried to adjust the handlebar lever but it makes no difference, also tried pushing the lever on the engine in and it's still the same, now as I've never ride the bike I don't know it's the clutch, so removed the plates and reassembled but still the same, took some photos so if I could have opinions on of it looks normal that'd be great

 

[Gary in NJ]

My first thought was “frozen clutch plates” but the disassembly and reassembly would have addressed that. Perhaps is “was” frozen plates, but now it’s how it was reassembled. Are you sure the actuation lever was properly reassembled?

 

[grahammarsden]

Try taking the actuator lever off the top of the clutch housing and moving it one tooth anticlockwise and see if that helps disengage the clutch.

 

[Johnski]

My first thought was “frozen clutch plates” but the disassembly and reassembly would have addressed that. Perhaps is “was” frozen plates, but now it’s how it was reassembled. Are you sure the actuation lever was properly reassembled?

That's the thing, like a damn fool I didn't mark it's position before I removed it

 

[Gary in NJ]

It’s too late now, but there is an easy way to “unstuck” a clutch using engine torque. It’s very simple:

1. With the engine running get the bike rolling with foot power (the Fred Flintstone method)
2. Put the bike in first gear
3. Rapidly open and close the throttle a few times to stress clutch
4. Pull in the clutch to confirm it’s functioning properly

 

[trepetti]

It’s too late now, but there is an easy way to “unstuck” a clutch using engine torque. It’s very simple:

1. With the engine running get the bike rolling with foot power (the Fred Flintstone method)
2. Put the bike in first gear
3. Rapidly open and close the throttle a few times to stress clutch
4. Pull in the clutch to confirm it’s functioning properly

Yabba dabba doo! I like it!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Quote:

"now as I've never ride the bike".

Is the bike new to you? Did it ever work properly since you've had it?

**With the oil fill cover off, you can see the top of the clutch.
When you pull the clutch lever, you should see the
clutch separate, clutches pulled to the outside / right side of the engine, do you?

**Also, there IS a dimple on the engine cover AND the clutch (at the engine) lever.
When properly on the correct spline, adjusted correctly, ONLY THEN WILL the marks line up

Some history would help.



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[tuning-forks]

In the meantime, no need to start the bike and stress the transmission etc..
Without the bike running just put the bike in gear and try to push it with the clutch lever pulled in. With a properly functioning clutch you should be able to push the bike with only some very minor brake drag.

 

[Johnski]

How many mm does the pressure plate need to move to disengage the clutch, I can see it moving 3-4mm but the clutch is still engaged.

I've adjusted the handlebar lever and the pivot but it just won't disengage!

I'm now wondering if the cable has stretched?

For more information I have the bike on the centre stand and in 1st gear, I then press the clutch lever and check the back wheel.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The outside clutch pressure plate (looking thru the filler hole) will visibly move, when the handlebar lever is pulled in.

I'm guessing 1-2mm's... Doesn't take much and you should feel some resistance on the lever (and cable).

If there is no movement ((at the clutch itself) and you feel resistance, it is very possible the cable is frayed internally,
causing some resistance and not doing it's job..

Once again, IS THE BIKE NEW TO YOU??? Mileage?
Clutch cable ever been cleaned/lubed, replaced??


Pic of my first clutch cable after replacement. Damage is at the top of the cable where the sharp curve is..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

In the meantime, no need to start the bike and stress the transmission etc..
Without the bike running just put the bike in gear and try to push it with the clutch lever pulled in. With a properly functioning clutch you should be able to push the bike with only some very minor brake drag.

Did you mean CLUTCH drag?



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[Johnski]

The outside clutch pressure plate (looking thru the filler hole) will visibly move, when the handlebar lever is pulled in.

I'm guessing 1-2mm's... Doesn't take much and you should feel some resistance on the lever (and cable).

If there is no movement ((at the clutch itself) and you feel resistance, it is very possible the cable is frayed internally,
causing some resistance and not doing it's job..

Once again, IS THE BIKE NEW TO YOU??? Mileage?
Clutch cable ever been cleaned/lubed, replaced??


Pic of my first clutch cable after replacement. Damage is at the top of the cable where the sharp curve is..

I built this bike! I bought the frame, I bought the subframe, I bought the engine, the loom, the lights, forks wheels, I bought parts and made a bike.

Pressure plate move 3-4mm and still doesn't disengage

 

[Johnski]

Did you mean CLUTCH drag?



.

No, he means BRAKE!

If the clutch is fine and the lever is pressed there should only be a slight drag from the brakes and nothing from the clutch!

 

[Gary in NJ]

Is the clutch assembled correctly. Pay attention to order of everything…bearings, washers, spacers…

Not that there are unique friction and stainless plates.

 

[Johnski]

Is the clutch assembled correctly. Pay attention to order of everything…bearings, washers, spacers…

Not that there are unique friction and stainless plates.
View attachment 94002

Looks exactly like that, I've only had the friction and stainless plates out but yeah, it looks like that

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Part #3 is connected to the transmission, part #1, is run off the crankshaft. The clutch connects the two.

From what you describe, if the clutch plates are separating, it sounds like you have an internal, transmission problem.

With access to the clutch, plates removed, Part #3 SHOULD spin freely when in neutral.
When shifted into gear, the Output sprocket SHOULD TURN.
Check for turning in first gear (likely won't from what your describing) and other gears...


And you shouldn't have any noticeable brake drag. If you do, brake calipers need attention...

https://flic.kr/p/24gHvHC

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[Johnski]

With the plates removed Number 3 does turn freely in neutral, when in gear it turns the rear wheel

 

[Gary in NJ]

Just thinking out loud...

Since this is a junkyard bike, it's very possible that the clutch plates are not correct, have too many plates...who knows. It is worth your time to base line everything in the clutch pack. Have you taken the time to place each plate on a flat surface to ensure that they aren't any warped, and that each plate meets spec? It doesn't take much to lock-up a clutch.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

With the plates removed Number 3 does turn freely in neutral, when in gear it turns the rear wheel

Ok, that's very good, trans sounds good.

Something is binding up, as Gary points out, could be clutch parts, missing collar, etc.

I'd check the parts diagram very closely AND check spec's on clutch plate thickness, etc

Do you have a factory manual to refer to?

.

 

[Johnski]

8 steel plates and 8 friction, can't find my verniers bit ill measure when I find them