Starting issue

[patty1104]

Hey guys
23,000kms.
A bit of a long story in a short time. Was having issues with fuel delivery from a blockage of rust in the fuel filter and pump. Replaced both and treated the tank. Ran great for 190kms. Next day went to start it, no luck. Horrible idle and running rich. Any twist of the throttle and it would cut out. A bunch of testing today, voltage and resistance on everything from the battery to the coils, injectors and fuel pump, crank angle sensor. Pulsed parts cleaner through the injectors while they were out and cleaned up the plugs as well. Cleaned up all the terminals, posts and grounds. It cranks strong, ignites for a second then shuts off. I think the next thing would be to check the CDI/ECU.
Fuel is definitely hitting the cylinders, can smell it when the air box has been removed when you open the butterflies. Definitely getting spark. It's strange because I thought maybe a kill switch issue after but on the occasion it does run for 5seconds or so. No often but does. Fuses and relays are fine.
I've never been one to take any vehicle to a shop but I'm feeling like I may have to this time so I don't go pumping money into parts as a maybe fix.I bought the bike because it had low kms and was pretty well looked after. But I guess the downside of buying a bike that sat for nearly 3 years is when it starts to get ridden again all of the demons come out for a play aswell. Also ruled out kickstand switch and tip sensor.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Welcome Patty

What codes are showing (if any) on the display prior to starting? Do you hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds just after the ignition key is switched to the on position?

 

[patty1104]

Thanks mate, fuel pump primes. Engine light while cranking but when it fires it goes away. I can't say I had noticed whether it did that before or not.
I wrote all of the numbers down from diag mode but not sure what codes have blown or if some are reference numbers.
01 16
03 101
05 26
06 24
07 0
08 0.6
09 0
20 on
21 on
30 00
31 00
36 00
37 00
48 00
50 00
51 00
52 00
60 00
61 41
62 1
63 00
70 0

 

[Gary in NJ]

09-0 is a problem. It is showing 0VDC to the battery/fuel system
61-41 & 62-1 Indicate a history of malfunctions

Is this bike stored outdoors? Have you tried to clean the contacts on the STOP switch on the throttle control?

 

[Motogiro]

Welcome to our great forum Patty!

 

[patty1104]

09-0 is a problem. It is showing 0VDC to the battery/fuel system
61-41 & 62-1 Indicate a history of malfunctions

Is this bike stored outdoors? Have you tried to clean the contacts on the STOP switch on the throttle control?

Would I be best to get it scanned with a genuine diagnostic tool to find out what the history is?

It was stored outside but undercover before I got it, now it is in the garage. It has been raining on a couple of times while I've been at work but nothing too extreme.

 

[patty1104]

Would I be best to get it scanned with a genuine diagnostic tool to find out what the history is?

It was stored outside but undercover before I got it, now it is in the garage. It has been raining on a couple of times while I've been at work but nothing too extreme.

I had read on one of the forums that when scanning through diagnostic mode that the fuel pump should be unplugged. That would be why no power on that code. Reconnected 11.5-11.6

 

[Gary in NJ]

There ya go...that explains that one. But do know that the fuel system reports bus voltage, and yours at 11.5-11.6VDC indicates a low charge state. When ever you are trying to diagnose a problem on a motorcycle it's very important to 1) have a fully charged battery and 2) confirm that the charging system is making >14VDC.

Take a look at the contactors in the throttle STOP switch (get 'em nice and clean) and get that battery charged. If you can get a sustained start out of the machine immediately check the output of the charging system.

 

[patty1104]

I'd say the battery is a bit down from continuous start efforts after testing a bunch of different things. Charged up and I also clean those switch contacts and hopefully it makes a difference. Thanks mate

 

[patty1104]

No difference still. Clean the contacts in the switch. Charged The battery, no difference. tried using a booster pack to start it still no

 

[Gary in NJ]

I would try to start the bike on starting fluid. If it “kicks” for a few seconds you can rule out an ignition issue and focus on fuel and air. Going back to your first past, smelling fuel could be anything from a leak in the fuel rail to a bad fuel line…it doesn’t mean that the correct amount of fuel to start/run is reaching the cylinders. I would also remove the spark plugs to check to see if they are fouled (by checking each for spark) and clean them with a contact cleaner and a wire brush.

 

[patty1104]

Latest update: it has sat for a month, didn't have any spare time for it.
Battery is supposed to have 260 cranking amps. It had 135. Replaced battery. Still nothing. It surely can't be ignition or fuel because it's running now for about 20secs at a time
As soon as you touch the throttle though it cuts out though.
Another thing, in neutral it rolls fine. In gear with the clutch in it's hard to push. And trying to start it in gear with the clutch in it lunges forward.
Could this mean something internal?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Latest update: it has sat for a month, didn't have any spare time for it.
Battery is supposed to have 260 cranking amps. It had 135. Replaced battery. Still nothing. It surely can't be ignition or fuel because it's running now for about 20secs at a time
As soon as you touch the throttle though it cuts out though.
Another thing, in neutral it rolls fine. In gear with the clutch in it's hard to push. And trying to start it in gear with the clutch in it lunges forward.
Could this mean something internal?

Sounds like the clutch plates are sticking.

There was no mention earlier so I suspect the clutch was fine prior to today, correct?

If so, once started / running, exercise the clutch lever, hold the brakes, pull in the clutch lever and shift into gear.
It should free up the clutch. You shouldn't have to go into the engine for that...

 

[patty1104]

There wasn't an issue before. It won't idle in gear with the clutch in for more than a couple seconds same as in neutral putting it into gear it stalls straight away.
It will only do the 20 to 30 second idle if it's in neutral and untouched

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

There is a clutch safety switch under the clutch lever.

Is the bike now starting and running for more than seconds? IE running, revving, ridable?

.

 

[patty1104]

It will only idle in neutral for 20-30 seconds before stalling out, as soon as you touch the clutch or try and start it and gear it doesn't run. Definitely not rideable. And touching the throttle stalls it aswell

 

[Gary in NJ]

You may not have the tools to check, but fuel pressure may be the root cause. If you have a fuel pressure gauge we can walk you through the process.

 

[patty1104]

I don't have the equipment needed but I can get it, I wouldn't have thought that would have been an issue with the brand new fuel pump that is only 200 kms old and it rode great until this issue

 

[Gary in NJ]

I wonder if something is restricting the fuel flow. May be you can check the fuel line and fuel rail for obstructions. Did you use an OEM fuel pump or an aftermarket unit? If it’s aftermarket perhaps it has experienced a premature death.

 

[patty1104]

It's an after market unit from a reputable shop not Chinese junk. It has plenty of flow from the tank to the rail, beyond that I can't test currently or see. I had pulsed and cleaned the injectors while they were out so they were working. Unless there is in issue in the rail...?