Uh oh.... header issues....

[Jugro]

Saw a mechanic with a problem like that when spring was arriving, snapped bolt and everything...
He drilled a tiny hole up through the stud and sprayed penetrating oil through, as the day went along... Before he had to go home he point welded a nut on the end and removed the stud, no force needed.

 

[templar]

As our friend from Portugal wrote, it may be best to point weld a nut on the end of the bad stud. The rub is getting the bike to welder, or welder to the bike. Price for this fix: less than $5.00

Good luck.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Saw a mechanic with a problem like that when spring was arriving, snapped bolt and everything...
He drilled a tiny hole up through the stud and sprayed penetrating oil through, as the day went along... Before he had to go home he point welded a nut on the end and removed the stud, no force needed.

An excellent idea!!! A portable 110 MIG welder would be perfect for that!!!

If your near SW Florida, I have the welder!

 

[cap'n]

Alright, I finally got it out. 4 days of spraying, torching, and hammering plus several pairs of vice grips didn't do it. NO vice grips were ever going to get this out. I wound up having to hand file to opposing flat surfaces on it, then using a smallish adjustable wrench. With that combo, it finally squeak-squeak-squeaked, and began to back out. All's back together and I'm free again.

Thanks all.

 

[Dmitry]

Those are studs. You could replace them with a bolt as a temporary fix, but that is a "limp home" fix, and a poor one at that. What you need is:

It is item number 9.
Part number: 95617-08625-00

Most bikes use studs with nuts instead of bolts, some cars too. I can't think of any off the top of my head that use bolts, but someone else here might know.

Hi Shamus,

Could you please supply the link to this diagram? I found a website with them ages ago, but forgot where it was...

 

[Erci]

Hi Shamus,

Could you please supply the link to this diagram? I found a website with them ages ago, but forgot where it was...

Any online store that has microfitch will have the diagram for any part.

Here, for example: http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

Fiche Parts

 

[Dmitry]

Any online store that has microfitch will have the diagram for any part.

Here, for example: http://www.partshark.com/fiche_section_detail.asp

Fiche Parts

Erci,

Thank you for this!

Dmitry

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

So yeah, this just happened to me too. I noticed the nuts corroding a little, and thouhgt I'd be proactive and order new ones. The first 2 came off fine. The thrid one tricked me... I thought the socket just slipped off the nut, but I was wrong... the nut and stud snapped off. I am incedibly unhappy. I didn't soak them first, warm them up, etc. I didn't think it would be that easy to break them. It is flush with the pipe flange.

So, do I take the other nuts off super carefully etc, all just to see if a tiny bit is left? Or do I have to drill now and use an extractor?

If its flush with the flange, once the header is off, you should have some stud sticking out.. A little heat, penetrating oil and a good vise grip (perhaps even grinding two flat edges on the stud for better grip) should take care of it..

A little bit of high temp anti seize on the threads wouldn't hurt upon reassembly..

Good luck..

 

[Sawblade]

A pair of beefy vice grips and a cheap propane pencil torch will get that right out. Just clamp the vice grips on as tight as you can and heat the area around the stud with the torch.

 

[Cloggy]

I realise this is an old thread but I have the same problem, riding through the winter didn't help matters. Shame that I can't see the pics but I get the general idea. I'm not very mechanically minded so I think I'll have to find a shop that could maybe do this for me. I'll take a pic when I get a chance :thumbup: Big thanks to Randy and Scott for all info :thumbup:

......................
Last little bit; if I wanted the header off with no risk, A cut off disk slicing into the nuts diagonally but avoiding the stud, apply penatrent, then heat, then very gentle turn. The nuts will split if cut right.
You clean the threads with die and install new nuts. Figure an hour to cut them all. That would be my path.

...........
Re pulling header. Find a good machine shop. With some intense close heat, those nuts can be removed or cut off as noted above.

Run from the guy telling you to get a spare head...

You can buy the studs separately and put brand new ones in there...
Even if a head "HOLE" stripped, a heli coil could fix it.

If you decide the header is coming off start spraying those bolts / nuts with penetrate..

***Quite awhile ago a member here had a screwed up head and got coolant leaking thru one of the exhaust bolts. He fixed it, (forgot how, maybe sealer),
but use caution drilling the head...

You can spray penetrate while it's hot, it'll soak in even better...

The key is don't break the stud off flush with the head. Cut the nut and remove that. Then eventually the header.

With some studs exposed (even damaged), a good vise grip and again, intense heat to the head, the old stud will come out.(No drilling/heli coils)

I'd suggest a small torch but even a good heat gun (they throw some serious heat), along with the penetrant should work.

I have a small set of torches (O2/acetylene) which would work fine...

Those nuts were initially torqued pretty light at 15 or 18 ft lbs. I actually had 2 or 3 loosen up on mine...

YOU, after coming in from a ride (engine still nice and hot), can spray a nut at a time, put a socket (6 point) and may have to go down a size (if corroded real bad).
Smack the nut (toward the engine) and lean on it. If it does not move STOP...You can probably get at least half of those nuts cracked loose on your own.

You may want to have some spare, NEW studs and nuts available should the stud simply unscrew out of the head (which is fine)..