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Valve clearance check

FinalImpact said:
As a reminder there is a SERIOUS TYPO in the 2007 OEM FSM USA CR 2006, Pg 90 of 394, section 3-5.
It repeats in 3-6 and possibly other places. FOLLOWING THIS MAY DAMAGE YOUR CCT, CHAIN, AND GUIDES.


NOTE: TURN THE CRANKSHAFT CLOCKWISE ONLY!!! If you go past a mark, continue turning CLOCKWISE!!! Chains can not be PUSHED, therefor critical components will be abused and you risk damage to the chain, guides and CCT if turned counter-clockwise.


QUOTE from FSM WITH ERROR in RED:
d. To measure the valve clearances of the other cylinders, starting with cylinder #1 at TDC, turn the crankshaft counterclockwise as specified in the following table.
blah blah blah :spank::spank::spank::spank::spank: :Flip:

CORRECTED in BLUE:
d. To measure the valve clearances of the other cylinders, starting with cylinder #1 at TDC, turn the crankshaft clockwise as specified in the following table.

Can someone with an earlier FSM confirm it is correct in their publication?

TAGS: LIT-11616-20-60, 4S8-28197-10, FZS6W, FZS6WC, turn crankshaft,
Click to expand...

Looks like the same typo occurs in the earlier service manual (04-06)...
 
I just followed this fantastic tutorial and completed my first valve clearance check at 34K miles. All clearances were within spec.

Cylinder 1:
Intake: .15mm .18mm
Exhaust: .28mm .28mm

Cylinder 2:
Intake: .13mm .15mm
Exhaust: .255mm .255mm

Cylinder 3:
Intake: .15mm .15mm
Exhaust: .255mm .255mm

Cylinder 4:
Intake: .15mm .18mm
Exhaust: .255mm .28mm

The job took about 5 hours start to finish. No problems whatsoever. The hardest part was getting that darn rubber mat back in place correctly.

Thank you n0other!
 
Nelly said:
Fantastic write up, thanks for taking the time and effort to do it. Based on your info I am going to brazen it out and wait for your next write up before I check the valves.

Nelly
Click to expand...

Don't count on the next writeup from me, at least not for a FZ6 as it's been passed to a new (hopefully happy) owner. And I've got my dream bike now to restore (98 R1) yay
 
Thanks for the guide! Taking photos of the rubber cover and all the cables really made it easy. I got the damn flappy rubber mat back in five minutes thanks to the documentation.

The no. 1 left exhaust valve was just barely within spec but all others was just fine so no adjustment this time. Since I had the radiator off I removed the headers too just to do a bit of cleaning. And more cleaning. And then some more.

One suggestion though, if it has not already been mentioned; I don't think you need to take the crank cover off. You can just unscrew the round crank nut cover with a really wide flat head screwdriver, or something similar.

I also did not remove the tank completely, just propped it up. Next time I will remove the ignition coils completely as they were a bit in the way. It's just a couple of connectors, just make sure to take pictures and/or put tape on them to see where they go back.

I did it in my garden shed which does not offer a lot of room. I had my back against some shelves to take this picture:

Gws7uFI.jpg
 
Thorak said:
...
One suggestion though, if it has not already been mentioned; I don't think you need to take the crank cover off. You can just unscrew the round crank nut cover with a really wide flat head screwdriver, or something similar.
...
Click to expand...

Reason for taking of the crank cover would be to inspect the chain and it's chainguides (chainslack and so on).
 
This would be my first time doing something like this on my bike. How long should I expect this to take? I have the Service Manual and am pretty handy, this seems a bit out of my comfort zone, but don't want to pay $300-450 to have it done.
 
Look at the other sticky about adjusting if out of spec. It's all in there.

Figure a full day but you need tools. Read both threads completely. It is not for everyone but is doable with all the information provided.

Basically check and double check eveything before pulling cams out.
 
I've got my bike torn ALL the way down. If I turn the crankshaft i get to a point where I'm hitting a wall. I get about 160 degrees of movement ( "H" to not quite "T") . Sparkplugs out, confirmed its neutral etc. I have gone clockwise and counter clockwise (understand this isn't ideal lol), at this point not opposed to removing chain of necessary. What am I doing wrong?

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
Did you have the cam(s) out and/or when was last running?


If it does not turn 360° due to interference, pull the cams out, confirm 360° is possible, set engine to TDC on the T and install the cams. The gears will oppose each other as their intake and exhaust marks align to the valve cover.

Tell us what has been done so far and when it quit rotating! Be patient and double check everything!
Look at the other thread too. It goes into detail how to solve this....

The key ingredient for now is to not force anything or hit the starter or you will be bending valves!!!!
 
I ended up pulling camshafts and resetting timing. The chain had a kink in it. Learning experience!

I'm assuming the ignition is based on camshaft postion...due to TDC marker "T" rotates twice per 4 stroke cycle

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
Bcwalks2 said:
This would be my first time doing something like this on my bike. How long should I expect this to take? I have the Service Manual and am pretty handy, this seems a bit out of my comfort zone, but don't want to pay $300-450 to have it done.
Click to expand...

I am new to bikes and maintenance and have the same sentiments, feel it is a bit outside of comfort level. Would it be cheaper/recommended to take it to independent shop rather than dealer?
 
PDX_Greg said:
I ended up pulling camshafts and resetting timing. The chain had a kink in it. Learning experience!

I'm assuming the ignition is based on camshaft postion...due to TDC marker "T" rotates twice per 4 stroke cycle

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Actually, these are 'waste spark' engines, meaning the plug in each cylinder fires every 360 degrees (once at the end of the compression stroke and again during the exhaust stroke). The second firing does nothing (hence 'waste') but this design is simpler as it does not need a cam position sensor and has a simpler ecu program. Most cars do the same thing. If your car has half as many ignition coils as it does cylinders, it is 'waste spark'.

Hope this helps.
 
Johnson said:
I am new to bikes and maintenance and have the same sentiments, feel it is a bit outside of comfort level. Would it be cheaper/recommended to take it to independent shop rather than dealer?
Click to expand...

You're going to pay roughly the same either way. It's a far less daunting process than it seems if you take it slow.

If you've got a mechanically inclined buddy, they're a good addition to the DIY routine.
 
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