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Vibration! A cure for bad vibrations, Spark Plug Caps!!

So my first COP update..... Did the mod n July 4 and have put about 1300 miles on them. I just started to experience an oddity, but I don't think it is related ( I also turned 60,000 miles since).

The other day in high heat and sitting in traffic, my idle started to decay. Could feel it, felt like a minor miss. This morning, air temp is cooler, but was sitting on line at the bank drive thru and just after is came off the fan, I felt it again. And this time it just stalled. Started right up and ran perfectly. FYI, never felt ANYTHING wrong at higher revs, where you would expect a compromised ignition system to be a problem.

Will dig in and see what I find. Air, fuel, spark!!!!!

Again, don't think its related, but sending the observation out to the collective wisdom of the FZ6 community.
 
Idle is more demanding than you think. Due to coil saturation it can easily cause insulation breakdown at low RPMs under load.

How hard is it to swap in OEM setup?
Thanks for the follow up!
 
Another COP update:

I ended up having another episode with the engine dying, this time after riding to a store and getting stuck in traffic on a hot day. Ran fine getting there, but when I returned to the bike and went to start it, the fuel pump didn't sound normal. Very short prime. Bike started but died a few seconds later. Restarting a few times, I couldn't rev it. It would sputter and die. Clearly a fueling issue. Then I found what I thought was the cause.....

Aside from the odd fuel pump sound, there was another sound, like a click. I trace it to the fan, which tries to spin when I turn the key on, but it spins about 2 degrees and stops. Then I see it.... a large wiring connector had made its way past the rubber mat and was lying against the fan. The water temp gauge was 1 bar from the top. I reposition the connector, freeing the fan. Everything returned to normal. When I got home I tore it down and made sure the mat was positioned correctly and never had an issue again.

Theory is that prior to completely jamming the fan, the connector was rubbing against it lightly, slowing it down. When this was happening, the current draw was high, and with the fuel pump on the same circuit, the pump was operating below capacity. When the original problem happened, it was momentary because the fan was spinning, just labored. Once the fan jammed, the pump could not get the current needed to fully supply the injectors.

Not sure why it didn't pop a fuse, all are the correct value. Best I can guess is that at startup both the fuel pump and the fan were pulling current and whatever the fuel pump got was keeping the fan circuit under 20 amps. Just a guess, so if any electrical gurus (@motogiro) can chime in I'd appreciate it.

Anyway, I fully believe this was the cause of the odd problems, and they were related to the execution of the COP mod, not a limitation of the mod itself.

If anything else crops up I'll post.

Thanks
 
Your theory sounds pretty plausible. And yes, everything about its performance characteristics (or lack of in this case) sounded like a fuel starvation issue. i.e. low pressure and with each time being at cooling required, I think you nailed it.

The fuse is overkill. As the fan bogs down/stops the little DC motors resistance simply climbs and it becomes a heater as opposed to a fan. To much heat and it burns itself up welding its commutators to the armature.

I'm guessing a 15A fuse would be more suitable and open before the motor goes thermonuclear / fusion mode...

A visible volt meter would have let you know the system was dropping voltage/drawing current... This sounds like a good reason to fit the bike with that USB port/volt meter. Perhaps I'll order one!
 
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FinalImpact said:
Your theory sounds pretty plausible. And yes, everything about its performance characteristics (or lack of in this case) sounded like a fuel starvation issue. i.e. low pressure and with each time being at cooling required, I think you nailed it.

The fuse is overkill. As the fan bogs down/stops the little DC motors resistance simply climbs and it becomes a heater as opposed to a fan. To much heat and it burns itself up welding its commutators to the armature.

I'm guessing a 15A fuse would be more suitable and open before the motor goes thermonuclear / fusion mode...

A visible volt meter would have let you know the system was dropping voltage/drawing current... This sounds like a good reason to fit the bike with that USB port/volt meter. Perhaps I'll order one!
Click to expand...
I installed a usb port years ago, but yeah, I think a combo usb voltmeter is worth a look. Anyone have pics to share? Specifically on an S1?

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trepetti said:
I installed a usb port years ago, but yeah, I think a combo usb voltmeter is worth a look. Anyone have pics to share? Specifically on an S1?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I just installed this one two weeks ago, <$9 shipped. I already had a cigarette lighter style outlet that I plugged a usb charger into. This just made it simpler. Works great!


s-l1600.jpg
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Car-Battery-Electric-Cigarette-Lighter-Voltmeter-Voltage-Meter-Gauge-Tester/232991043407?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item363f592f4f:g:JREAAOSwGmZb-CKO&enc=AQAEAAAB8BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qWJg3PClVg8Wt5KKpCKZL2eq1dD6gK0Jwz4fZbxoD7U1ypuCFWE9ChhH9bTbfdXeE7ZRvTCrcpWufp0eVBpvwV14pnLDFl1VVn0O9MQvRmQx9tHiWa75EKD45AD3hy00HymATHMTASci3WBztoZR1upIgnCRQMtWfJuG2ZfH3vR7rTNJUliWeJLx6BhmN1Wu4dj6Ne1HSgT9Qtsos1tx7B4Vurx9dVfpRuZKxKlZK9NRHQXnUt0k6jMVOIM0ntTE9AMtU89FlH56O1BaWUoS0GqNjQEAZeZepmI8cKcCiyg3hAzEM3GhPSORx6gVL0Ux4yOejnDr65HO9OQw4ARb7O9hz1FKY325V5JGHKeABUvxNLAB34X1p3YMUxGn%2FabVV%2FjVoQY%2F7z12RVSqcYG6gRi4OW6DInUNptUjTmOUB%2FV%2BKOLNIVWAFkyFmRm8z4pU5OOl6bv95dphKZsH9Z%2FQ27lcdm%2BchdBdvbWFC96%2Fc86s%2Fd840WNe6TyHd2v%2F75cb2gNhPZeKPeJ20XE6e4eCpbGhPvehasWQyZX2LIOxQc%2F0jxc4kpKr182hm%2BEsOU62LqEZG%2BclZZJdmpaCPEQArA2yUZj%2F0EZH3ewzOKrNk%2F4fcL1p42%2BFYr1lrztnN0Mi6k%3D&checksum=232991043407e40e5125ed7b4b3dbcf927d969e26773
 
Ohendo said:
I just installed this one two weeks ago, <$9 shipped. I already had a cigarette lighter style outlet that I plugged a usb charger into. This just made it simpler. Works great!


View attachment 69928
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Car-Battery-Electric-Cigarette-Lighter-Voltmeter-Voltage-Meter-Gauge-Tester/232991043407?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item363f592f4f:g:JREAAOSwGmZb-CKO&enc=AQAEAAAB8BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qWJg3PClVg8Wt5KKpCKZL2eq1dD6gK0Jwz4fZbxoD7U1ypuCFWE9ChhH9bTbfdXeE7ZRvTCrcpWufp0eVBpvwV14pnLDFl1VVn0O9MQvRmQx9tHiWa75EKD45AD3hy00HymATHMTASci3WBztoZR1upIgnCRQMtWfJuG2ZfH3vR7rTNJUliWeJLx6BhmN1Wu4dj6Ne1HSgT9Qtsos1tx7B4Vurx9dVfpRuZKxKlZK9NRHQXnUt0k6jMVOIM0ntTE9AMtU89FlH56O1BaWUoS0GqNjQEAZeZepmI8cKcCiyg3hAzEM3GhPSORx6gVL0Ux4yOejnDr65HO9OQw4ARb7O9hz1FKY325V5JGHKeABUvxNLAB34X1p3YMUxGn%2FabVV%2FjVoQY%2F7z12RVSqcYG6gRi4OW6DInUNptUjTmOUB%2FV%2BKOLNIVWAFkyFmRm8z4pU5OOl6bv95dphKZsH9Z%2FQ27lcdm%2BchdBdvbWFC96%2Fc86s%2Fd840WNe6TyHd2v%2F75cb2gNhPZeKPeJ20XE6e4eCpbGhPvehasWQyZX2LIOxQc%2F0jxc4kpKr182hm%2BEsOU62LqEZG%2BclZZJdmpaCPEQArA2yUZj%2F0EZH3ewzOKrNk%2F4fcL1p42%2BFYr1lrztnN0Mi6k%3D&checksum=232991043407e40e5125ed7b4b3dbcf927d969e26773
Click to expand...
I just bought a variant of that one. It is the 1 with the full cover. I too have an 05 and I am curious about where you installed it. Where did you put the cig lighter plug?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
trepetti said:
I just bought a variant of that one. It is the 1 with the full cover. I too have an 05 and I am curious about where you installed it. Where did you put the cig lighter plug?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Wired to the running light front left.


b5d864d7d512ebdc85d491722ee81337.jpg
0dc7558ed3e04dc9cd8f3787db6b8c84.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 
Ohendo said:
Wired to the running light front left.


b5d864d7d512ebdc85d491722ee81337.jpg
0dc7558ed3e04dc9cd8f3787db6b8c84.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Click to expand...
I am working with a friend to 3d print an enclosure that will sit over the speedo with the display facing me. Will post up pics if it works.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
trepetti said:
Harness done. Need to find time this week to pull the airbox and install.
552f2a711782342e65621e3f316f4aaf.jpg


Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Hi there, long time lurker, just registered so I can ask this. I just ordered a wiring harness off of an older R6 and have some newer R6 (2009) coils laying around. I'm going to try to do this mod on my wife's FZ6.

Considering I'm a wiring newbie, one thing I'm confused about is the wiring in "series". When you say you're wiring in series, are you saying you connect the + from the original coil wire to one COP, and then grab the - for that COP and connect it to the + for the other COP?

I understand that originally it's 2 plugs per coil and that I won't be connecting all 4 in series, but 2 at a time.
 
The drawing below is for cylinders 1 and 4. The wire colors coming off the 'DC Supply' are the wires from the FZ6's wiring harness. The yellow wire connects the negative from cyl 1 to the positive of cyl 2, making this a series connection.

You will need a similar arrangement for cyl 2 and 3.

Make sure you read the posts thoroughly, as you need to make sure you get the correct coils.

Good luck
 

Attachments

trepetti said:
The drawing below is for cylinders 1 and 4. The wire colors coming off the 'DC Supply' are the wires from the FZ6's wiring harness. The yellow wire connects the negative from cyl 1 to the positive of cyl 2, making this a series connection.

You will need a similar arrangement for cyl 2 and 3.

Make sure you read the posts thoroughly, as you need to make sure you get the correct coils.

Good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks for the drawing!
I will check the resistance in the coils to make sure they are in the correct range/ballpark. I just had the R6 coils laying around from a previous bike.

Above, when you said "The yellow wire connects the negative from cyl 1 to the positive of cyl 2, making this a series connection.", did you mean negative from cyl 1 to the positive of cyl 4? As that's what the drawing in the pdf shows?
 
Awesome, I'm doing a long trip with the bike next month, so I can't get to it until basically July, but I'm very excited to see how the bike will be with less vibrations.
 
Hi Kudos for the idea, i thought for a second that i was the only one that had that idea,, it was beyond me how nobody else had thought about that.

From my experience i can tell you the COP coils works perfect, i have them for several years now, i dont even remember, and they work perfectly, the key is to selec a coil model that has about half the impedance of the stock FZ6 coil, so when you connect them in serial, you have about the same impedance than the FZ6 Oem coil.

Here is a video of how smooth they work at idle for example, they work very good.


Here is a picture of the final cable, what i did was use the R1/R6 coil cable pack (it's a little cable loom that they have only for coils) and modded so the 1&4 - 2&3 coils end up in series so that way i end up with you pair of cables, just like the OEM FZ6 coil.

I even have installed a Healtech i-QSE Quickshifter on it, and it works perfectly.

1724428613694.webp
 
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