New Engine Break In - How To?

recko

recko

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Hi, I'm getting my new FZ6 in about 2 weeks from now, just wondering how to do a proper engine break in for it. Thanks in advance!
 
My manual says to keep it below 7k revs i think for the first 600 miles (uk) but run-in is a myth i rekon. Once its warm just tear its nuts off ;)
 
They told me at the shop to ride normally. But does that mean normally, like a nanna:eek:. ( no offense to Nannas that can ride:thumbup:...lol.)

The manual says not to exceed 7k then 8k for extended periods of time.
It does not say not to do it at all:cheer:. By that theory, a quick excursion up to 12k here and there doesn't sound like a problem:D....Anyhow that's what I did and haven't had any troubles up to around 17km since May:rockon:. Ask the Mechanic at the shop might be a good place to start, but I reckon he's goin to say the same thing:thumbup:.
Cheers
Mike

P.S. :welcome:
 
What about engine oil change for break in period? At what interval is usually practiced? I've heard that there are some folks are practicing 300 miles change then 600 miles change, just curious what kinda method do you folks use? I'd like to see from you folks' replies as a guideline and for my own reference as well. Thanks a lot!
 
recko said:
What about engine oil change for break in period? At what interval is usually practiced? I've heard that there are some folks are practicing 300 miles change then 600 miles change, just curious what kinda method do you folks use? I'd like to see from you folks' replies as a guideline and for my own reference as well. Thanks a lot!
Click to expand...

The first service is to do a quick check on stuff and dump the running in oil.

I just followed the manual, which for me says 1000km/625miles. This oil is one of the reasons you don't want to exceed those higher revs for extended periods as it won't handle the heat as well. Then no prolonged periods over 8k for 600km/375miles and for me oil changes every 5000km/3125 miles.

First 5000km service I swapped over to synth and that's about it, but I'm no expert.

Hope this helps.
Cheers
Mike
 
i did the 600 mile service myself since it is fairly simple and there is a checklist in the service manual that you can download from here for free, also i would change the oil at 200-300 miles as well as 600 and 1500 miles, you will notice at the first change that there are a lot of "Sparklies" in your oil and i personally want those out asap. after 1500 miles you can go to a more conventional oil change regiment.

good luck on your bike search and post up pics when you get her!
 
reiobard said:
i did the 600 mile service myself since it is fairly simple and there is a checklist in the service manual that you can download from here for free, also i would change the oil at 200-300 miles as well as 600 and 1500 miles, you will notice at the first change that there are a lot of \"Sparklies\" in your oil and i personally want those out asap. after 1500 miles you can go to a more conventional oil change regiment.

good luck on your bike search and post up pics when you get her!
Click to expand...

Prepare yourself for stupid newbie question:

Where can I download the manual for free?

Cheers:iconbeer:
 
Also very important.
When you click the link scroll up ^^^^
Check all that stuff.
Just because you like to live does not mean that the person that put your bike together cares whether you live or not.
Check it all and know its right yourself.
 
one of our members has linked to the page on our site.
If you search you will find it. LOL LOL
find it you will, search yes... LOL
 
wrightme43 said:
Also very important.
When you click the link scroll up ^^^^
Check all that stuff.
Just because you like to live does not mean that the person that put your bike together cares whether you live or not.
Check it all and know its right yourself.
Click to expand...

Das ist gut!!! Thanks for all us NewB's out there...especially those that are going to have to break in a bike.

Cheers:iconbeer:
 
Hey thanks a lot for all the answers guys. In fact I've tried searching for engine break in info for the past 2 days, probably not used to this forum yet, but will be! :rockon:

Really very anxious to get my hands on this machine!!! Ha! :rockon:
 
Break in -actually, wear in- is very important. The most important part of wear in is to properly seat the rings. You basically want the piston rings to cut a very sharp edge on the cross hatching on the cylinder wall. This provides a very tight sealing surface. If you do not get that nice sharp edge on the cross hatching, blow by will occur, and the only way to remedy it is to re hone the cylinder and install new piston rings. Accelerating hard when the engine is cold is a sure fire way to ruin the cylinder bore, as is excessive revs. The proper way to do it: follow the manual guidelines for rev ceilings. Once the bike is warm-never just let your bike idle, or never fully reach operating temperature during wear in- accelerate fairly hard once at cruising speeds, this puts pressure on the rings, and forces them to seat against the cylinder wall. You can use lots of throttle, just no prolonged WOT and stay in the proper RPM range. Yamaha has taken great steps to ensure that the ceramic composite bores seat quickly. The only down side is that if the rings do not seat, you can not rehone the bores, so proper wear in is vital.

The bearings will take much longer to develop a wear pattern, usually 3-5000 miles. You will notice much quicker throttle response as the miles pile on. Change the oil at 600 miles, with the gearbox sharing engine oil, there will be lots of shavings in the oil. I changed mine at 300 miles, then at 600 miles I switched to synthetic. Bike has never used any oil. Hope this helps!
 
wolfc70 said:
Break in -actually, wear in- is very important. The most important part of wear in is to properly seat the rings. You basically want the piston rings to cut a very sharp edge on the cross hatching on the cylinder wall. This provides a very tight sealing surface. If you do not get that nice sharp edge on the cross hatching, blow by will occur, and the only way to remedy it is to re hone the cylinder and install new piston rings. Accelerating hard when the engine is cold is a sure fire way to ruin the cylinder bore, as is excessive revs. The proper way to do it: follow the manual guidelines for rev ceilings. Once the bike is warm-never just let your bike idle, or never fully reach operating temperature during wear in- accelerate fairly hard once at cruising speeds, this puts pressure on the rings, and forces them to seat against the cylinder wall. You can use lots of throttle, just no prolonged WOT and stay in the proper RPM range. Yamaha has taken great steps to ensure that the ceramic composite bores seat quickly. The only down side is that if the rings do not seat, you can not rehone the bores, so proper wear in is vital.

The bearings will take much longer to develop a wear pattern, usually 3-5000 miles. You will notice much quicker throttle response as the miles pile on. Change the oil at 600 miles, with the gearbox sharing engine oil, there will be lots of shavings in the oil. I changed mine at 300 miles, then at 600 miles I switched to synthetic. Bike has never used any oil. Hope this helps!
Click to expand...

Hey wolfc70, thanks a lot for the advise! :rockon:
 
I've an intention to go on a short trip to West Malaysia on the day of collection to do my break in, probably will cover abt a total mileage of 300 mi (500km) using the method in the manual, after which will go for an oil change and perhaps do another 300 mi the following day. :)
 
just ride it normally. Being a n00b, you won't be putting it near 10K rpm cuz it can kick you in the pants over that.

so ride normally and it'll wear in normally. just do the service on time or early even. and do it yourself.
 
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