08 FZ6 Condensed Build thread ~Final Impact~

[FinalImpact]

Pictures for another place....
Just tinkering today!
The good news is my little fuse holder fits under the pod and all I need to do is leave the door open (Tail Light Fuse) and insert the piggyback.

I'll throw some dielectric grease in and call it done. Its switched when I need it switched.

 

[FinalImpact]

Learning CURVE = Deployed!
Busy the last few days, but today was a Great day for testing and we started here: Pick an AFR and log data about how to get there.

After ripping about, i.e. mainly trying 3rd and 4th gear pulls using Throttle Positions (TP) from ZERO through WOT, and hovering at: -> 10, 20, 30, 40 --> to 100% to load the engine so it works longer in each gear and "feels the range of work it can do AT that throttle position". We came up with this map! A map based upon TP and what Work can be done at that position.
The Goal being to get some Dwell time with every TP from ZERO through 100% as you have to linger there and not just pass through it too quickly.

Example: 3rd gear, 10% throttle, and let the engine pull from Idle UNTIL it wont REV any more at that specific TP. This action builds data for that TP. Then hit 20% and repeat. This takes some time and a big wide open area that won't get you ran over or impale yourself into something when attempting the 90 and 100% positions of 3rd and 4th gear!

With testing complete, the data logger builds a map knowing our conditions and then suggests a map (think lets make corrections) to obtain our target 13.0 AFR. Sadly, this hardware comes with ZERO instructions or details telling you "hang time per condition matter, but we KNOW it does! From scratch, here is what it gleaned from my 60" run attempting to build a profile that matches my Target 13.0 AFR!!

For a given TP, you need to dwell there to capture enough data. During this "capture phase" it likely needs lots of samples before it can qualify that TP as a valid input. Again, if you took like 1st gear and cracked the throttle to 50%, Assuming you're not tied to a post, the engine is going to REV and meet the challenge, and then Stabilize and not gain anymore RPM. The problem is in 1st gear is it happens so quick its over! Hence me picking 3rd and 4th. Well and some 5th and 6th to ofset the "cruise conditions" required to get home.

 

[FinalImpact]

Getting closer! Still FAT in many spots (dips into low 12's), but moves right along pulling better than ever. 2nd and 3rd gear pulls from 4k on up are amazingly quick to ### and very smooth. Plus the Happy spot at ~8k is extremely happy now! Caught me by surprise pulling the nose up rather aggressively! :spank:

Logging device is behaving much better than the first round of "all in" and the pipes are coming back to what I'd expect. Plugs are cleaning up too.
Temp was 52°F outside and engine basically sat on the stat at 167°F except when idling. I'll opt for fat over lean and widdle it down.

I wouldn't suggest building this but here is the progression.... Target above 10% TP is 13. Below is 12.8 - 12.6 which may be overkill but it pulls Great!
We're gonna need that map select switch if we expect to stray from the filling station too far -> MPG from 45 to 35!

 

[FinalImpact]

Thoughts about BAZZZZZZZZAZ software!

3 runs, "NO" map changes. Just depends how you ride and when/what it samples.
Thoughts - A dyno map is a good baseline. Nothing more. Real world riding provides other points of interest which can make or break how a vehicle performs! Right now it "gets it on", but man it gets bad MPG's! lol

FWIW: I'll average out the values over time and build a map from "those values". Obviously street riding spends a lot of time at lower TP's and RPM, hence the "nearly" repeatable numbers down low as we simply pass though that range more often and get "more samples"!!!
All rides were the same general distance attempting to obtain ALL TP's and RPMs. However, #2 and #4 are the same locations while #1 (not shown) and #3 which is into Wide Open Space, reveal some different characteristics!
I'll try and do another sample which overlay "both" areas in one ONE RUN and see what comes of it. Sadly the software doesn't allow you to compare maps or export them like DJ's PC# software.
If I had to guess, A map could be built just doing pulls in remote locations. Hint - take a laptop into the Great Wide Open!

 

[FinalImpact]

Its getting closer to Target. I've done less comparing and hand edits, i.e. let software optimize the map as its actually doing OK. For those running Bazzaz hardware (and this may apply to other loggers), the relationship of AFR to Required changes is pretty straight forward as it relates to the fuel map needed.

Example:
Lets say our Target AFR is 13.0:1
At 6000 RPM @30% TPS an Offset of +7 was Applied which produced a Measured value of 11.7:1
Although not a 100% 1:1 all the time, the math goes like this.

M - T = Difference(X10) = OA
11.7 - 13.0 = -1.3

Multiply the difference by 10
-1.3 X 10 = -13 = OA

For Cell 6K @30% its value needs decreased by -13 to hit Target.
O - OA = New Value
+7 - 13 = -6

Here is the current Target and recorded AFR values.

If you're asking why is taking so long, well - its my engine and lean run could destroy it. I'd rather change the oil sooner from running rich than go lean so I'm subtracting fuel based upon an average of 3 runs where values show to be repeatable. I've also opted to hand EDIT extreme negative values leaving them higher than the software might suggest.

 

[ChanceCoats123]

It's definitely better to richen by too much and more slowly lean it out than the other way around, that's how you destroy motors. Take your time and you'll get it tweaked in exactly how you like and you'll still know it's reliable as ever.

Now I have a quick question I was wondering about. What made you choose 13:1 as your general AFR? I know pure octane is stoichiometric at 14.7:1 and we definitely don't get pure octane gasoline so 14.7:1 is asking for trouble, but 13:1 is quite reserved (unless you have plans to lean out over time). You could probably make good power with something between 13.5-14:1, especially since you probably have the most free-flowing bike on this whole forum and you already use 93 minimum with the timing advanced. :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

It's definitely better to richen by too much and more slowly lean it out than the other way around, that's how you destroy motors. Take your time and you'll get it tweaked in exactly how you like and you'll still know it's reliable as ever.

Now I have a quick question I was wondering about. What made you choose 13:1 as your general AFR? I know pure octane is stoichiometric at 14.7:1 and we definitely don't get pure octane gasoline so 14.7:1 is asking for trouble, but 13:1 is quite reserved (unless you have plans to lean out over time). You could probably make good power with something between 13.5-14:1, especially since you probably have the most free-flowing bike on this whole forum and you already use 93 minimum with the timing advanced. :thumbup:

To date I have not seen what Goal others have for an AFR for this combustion chamber/piston design RPM range. So, so I'm going off none Fazer runs that made good power with the same basic engine and well that chart on post 45 from Bazzaz.
Using GPS and a timer its going through the gears better on lower AFRs (12.8) and if you snatch open the throttle on that 12.5 map, the nose is up and over. Hit second at 9K and keeps it there and drops down just outside of 12k or ~ 82mph where it runs out of power. Plus its very smooth on the fat maps. But I need to play more and see when the party stops. I just haven't hooked up the map select switch yet to compare back to back, same location, temp, conditions of 13.0 map vs fat map.
As it stands now I plan to building an economy map at 13.6 and then something in between w/12.8 ~ 13.2. Currently getting about 39mpg on a favorable map with good pwr.

You notice the lower TPS values having lower AFR? It helps off the line and rewet. Sadly the software does NOT log below 3K so its no mans land. Called them asked if there was a file to edit, anything to change and collect data they said NO. But the same tech said all you could do was screen shots to compare data sets, however, a right click and you grab all the map and into Excel it goes. So, that tech whom I've spoke w/a couple times isn't knowing everything the software does.

Its trial and error at this point. Also, one can not assume all RPMs/TPS burn efficiently at the same rate. Some conditions may need different mixtures for best power. Only gonna get that with lots of dyno pulls. 14.7 is good for the CAT but not max power. As I've read it, for like designs I'll play around the 13.0 point and see what comes of it. Maybe just bad mpgs?

 

[FinalImpact]

Update:
I wear Dainese Torque Out boots and the sole is rubber. When its wet out, the OEM rubber peg AND the Dainese rubber sole combo is deadly as your foot can slip right off the peg and really screw your line and upset the bike.

Mounting the rear sets solid, helps that. Taking it a step further, the addition of knurled pegs with solid sets really helps you feel everything the bike is doing. Its just a better combination for me and the expense was minimal. The reward is a safety factor too! It all adds up making this bike very predictable and joy to ride.

 

[FinalImpact]

Some quick notes;
I ran another map based upon fueling at an AFR of 13.2 - 13.8:1 and there is a night and day loss of getti-up compared to the 12.9 map! It likes fuel around the 12.9:1 range!
We're not running race gas here, just pump gas and richer is a slower burn but a longer burn which in the end, appears to make more power and work with this engines design.

If I had to guess: A sniffer at a dyno can not be as accurate as bung at the up-pipe 5" from the collector. Point: we are not comparing apples to apples when a sniffer goes past the can 8" vs WB sensor at the collector. IMO this is good data but it may be skewed by "sample time".
- I've love to see it pull my 12.5 map on dyno and compare the two!

I know its hard to imagine that while at 4000 RPM any oxygen could "back draft" down the cans and be registered by an o2 sniffer but little else explains this.

Once two good maps are on the table, Add map select switch w/ light and one will be for the canyons and the other for getting there! :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

By thread hits, you readers/followers may get a kick out of this guy. Some of the info was posted years ago so check the dates but read some of his info and how he thinks. Appears to be on target!

Also, this blurb here follows suit with real world riding. That lean although it may make peak torque, its not the most usable or friendly to ride. In this section he talks about the tune of dyno vs canyons...
CLICK --> Bikeboy.org - The Dyno and What it Measures

He has some very detailed posts about all kinds of bikes and making them more friendly.

 

[FinalImpact]

Should someone post a dyno chart with %Co listed here is a chart to convert to ~ AFR based upon normal atmosphere of ~21% o2.

 

[FinalImpact]

Next project; Tail Tidy for Two Brothers Exhaust:
The Two Brothers exhaust on the bike came with a TT and it's ok but it lacks fore/aft support and is bouncing in the breeze under me as the big V shaped bracket doesn't fit under the OVAL pipes!

GOAL:
Replace tail tidy with aluminum powder coated design
Support Tail Tidy
Secure pod mounts

Project gained traction in the WTB thread: http://www.600riders.com/forum/bike...tail-bracket-support-big-u-shape-see-pic.html :thumbup::thumbup: Thanks Everyone!

Get rid of this:

Replace w/something like this (card board Demo) w/LED:

I picked up a spare bracket and will cut the ends off throwing the rest away so the plastic with grommets for the sides pods have support.

LIKE SO!

Then I'll add a single mounting point for the TT from under the seat.

Need to acquire some 0.125" aluminum plate and transfer template.

After a month of rain - getting back to this. Have this transferred to aluminum, but need it cut out....

Print on 8.5 X 11" paper and build one if it looks usable to you.
View attachment 56431

 

[FinalImpact]

I'm still waiting for a long run to see how this map came out. It should be pretty close to Target for 13.0 AFR. One little detail; is it pulls like the d$ckens in 3rd gear and up. Why not 1st and 2nd? Because the OEM ECU has the ignition retarded to limit its rate of acceleration. You can really feel it now after all the little changes are in play!

And yes - progress. Getting leaner. 13.5 was too much so efforts were spent here.

 

[FinalImpact]

Thread looks pretty useless with all the attachments gone. lol Home Brewed Bazzaz Z-AFM Map at 13.0 AFR above 5% TPS is pretty good. Sounds good, pulls great, seems very happy!

Audio track after getting it dialed... MP3 from Soundcloud - playing in the canyon
Around the 4:00" mark speed is 25mph in 3rd, drop to 2nd and opened it up!

Link to 48T sprocket : Transformation Complete! It's All BLACK!



Sunstar 2-547448+48
Sunstar 48 teeth

Top Down FZ1 Bar pic:

Columbia river bar... View from Astoria

 

[thisisbenji]

Thread looks pretty useless with all the attachments gone. lol Home Brewed Bazzaz Z-AFM Map at 13.0 AFR above 5% TPS is pretty good. Sounds good, pulls great, seems very happy! Audio track after getting it dialed... MP3 from Soundcloud - playing in the canyon
Around the 4:00" mark speed is 25mph in 3rd, drop to 2nd and opened it up!

Jealous of the fueling map, that's on my list of things to do for sure!

The bike looks really good!

 

[FinalImpact]

Jealous of the fueling map, that's on my list of things to do for sure!

The bike looks really good!

Thanks! ^^

This is just a short run of playing around town, but I usually average them out over 4 runs before making any adjustments to fueling.... Also getting about 40mpg on this map and it runs strong. I can live with this! :thumbup:
FWIW: when the throttle is abruptly closed the logger sees this a lean condition when its not. And the fact that its not under load (throttle is nearly closed), means its not huge deal or detrimental to the engines health. See red areas...

Anyone wanting the plug details from NGK - here it is! --> www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf
Yes, I went looking for a CR11E (pic below is CR10E).

Thread Diameter] C: 10 mm
Construction] R: Resistor Type
Heat Rating] 10: Heat Range (10 is cooler than 9)
Thread Reach] E: 19 mm (3/4”)

Firing End Construction] K: 2-Ground electrodes

Installed during valve check and have 3,000 miles on them. Never seen an engine burn so clean. Almost scary! This is methanol fuel @92 octane...

 

[FinalImpact]

Added More Black to the Belly Area!:rockon: :rockon: :rockon:
Then a ride into the woods!

 

[KHarper4289]

Post a googlemap route of that Hood trip. I'm headed out there tomorrow to beat the heat

 

[FinalImpact]

Post a googlemap route of that Hood trip. I'm headed out there tomorrow to beat the heat

A day late... or more!

From Sandy, head towards East Marmot, stay on it to East Barlow Trail. Turn left onto Lolo Pass Rd. Sections are Gravel and can be entertaining when at speed as they have pot holes too!
Ask how I know!
Lolo Pass is also direct access from Hwy 26. Another fun one is hwy 35 to Lost Lake... week day when there are no cars!

 

[chokeslam512]

Which belly pan did you use?