Crank but no Fuel Pump Prime

[CltFZ6]

hello all,
I recently acquired a 2007 fz6 that was in a 10mph accident where the previous owner laid it down on the shifter side. Bent handle bars, dented tank, ripped off heel peg on the shifting rear set, ripped up and damaged the front cowl and headlight fairing assembly (removing to turn into a naked anyways).

After the accident he was able to show me that it started no problem. It has been sitting since November and was winterized so I have de-winterized it. But when I took it home, everything powers on. Also when I turn the kill switch to the start position, there is no sound from the fuel pump. No error codes on the dash, until I go into diagnostic mode.

All the diagnostic codes look to be within normal parameters however, D08 is stuck at 0.6. With the research I’ve gathered, that is the lean angle reading associated with the tip sensor? Correct me if I’m wrong, I’m just stumped. The battery is the correct voltage, I have tested the harness and relays, checked and replaced all fuses as well.

I have ordered a new tip/lean sensor to see if that could be the issue.


Additionally, when I clear D62 (clear all codes), the fuel pump runs during the code clearing cycle and then does refuses to prime when I cycle the bike back on.

 

[Motogiro]

Does the starter turn the engine? If it does check for spark. If it's got spark, it may still have bad fuel.

 

[grahammarsden]

Look at where the Tilt Sensor connects to the loom, unplug it and bridge it with a piece of wire to see if that's the cause.

You might also want to check connectivity on the handlebar and side stand kill switches.

 

[Motogiro]

Look at where the Tilt Sensor connects to the loom, unplug it and bridge it with a piece of wire to see if that's the cause.

You might also want to check connectivity on the handlebar and side stand kill switches.

This why I'm asking whether the starter cranks the engine. If you have fuel pump prime the starter interrupt cut-off circuit would be operational. So you should have starter and fuel injection/fuel pump operation.
I would not bridge the lean angle sensor without researching and understanding it's technical relation to the ECU and other sensors. There are 3 wires on that sensor and there are other sensors that electrically associated to that circuit.

 

[CltFZ6]

Does the starter turn the engine? If it does check for spark. If it's got spark, it may still have bad fuel.

The starter turns the engine, I’ve cleaned the entire fuel system and put fresh 93 inside. And it has spark as well. I have checked all the relays. I also have used starter fluid and it starts for a few seconds but dies due to no fuel coming from the pump because it is not even priming. Ordered a new lean angle sensor because even when it is off the stand/upright, it measures that it is leaned in the diagnostic dashboard.

 

[CltFZ6]

This why I'm asking whether the starter cranks the engine. If you have fuel pump prime the starter interrupt cut-off circuit would be operational. So you should have starter and fuel injection/fuel pump operation.
I would not bridge the lean angle sensor without researching and understanding it's technical relation to the ECU and other sensors. There are 3 wires on that sensor and there are other sensors that electrically associated to that circuit.

I’m suspecting now maybe there is a loose or damaged connection with the kill switch after the accident… however when I asked the seller, he said he put it in his garage and started it a day later but he had to lay on the start button for about 10 seconds before it turned on. *this is new information as of about 10 minutes ago

 

[Motogiro]

I’m suspecting now maybe there is a loose or damaged connection with the kill switch after the accident… however when I asked the seller, he said he put it in his garage and started it a day later but he had to lay on the start button for about 10 seconds before it turned on. *this is new information as of about 10 minutes ago

The kill switch provides power for starter interrupt cut-off safety circuit as well as power to the ignition coils so the kill switch is probably not the problem. I suspect you might be on the right path with the lean angle sensor if the numbers don't agree with the manual.

 

[Gary in NJ]

If you have spark, then it's not the tip-over circuit.

Corrosion in a connector should be investigated. I would inspect the connectors for corrosion along the electrical path for the fuel pump. Of course the simple action of a break/reconnect in and of itself could clear a corrosion problem.

 

[CltFZ6]

Look at where the Tilt Sensor connects to the loom, unplug it and bridge it with a piece of wire to see if that's the cause.

You might also want to check connectivity on the handlebar and side stand kill switches.

I will need to do that. I am just concerned

The kill switch provides power for starter interrupt cut-off safety circuit as well as power to the ignition coils so the kill switch is probably not the problem. I suspect you might be on the right path with the lean angle sensor if the numbers don't agree with the manual.

The kill switch provides power for starter interrupt cut-off safety circuit as well as power to the ignition coils so the kill switch is probably not the problem. I suspect you might be on the right path with the lean angle sensor if the numbers don't agree with the manual.

I just went ahead and unplugged the lean angle sensor while in the diagnostic dashboard and it changed from 0.6 to 50. I suspect it is part of the issue or the sole culprit… will have to wait for the replacement in the mail come Thursday

 

[CltFZ6]

I will need to do that. I am just concerned



I just went ahead and unplugged the lean angle sensor while in the diagnostic dashboard and it changed from 0.6 to 50. I suspect it is part of the issue or the sole culprit… will have to wait for the replacement in the mail come Thursday

I’ve seen so many differing opinions and what it regarding the tip over sensor reading I have received (D08 0.6) to anyone’s knowledge here is that a bad reading? Just to confirm

 

[Motogiro]

I found a test procedure in the service manual. Remove the lean angle sensor from the bike so you can rotate it by hand. with the unit plugged in and the key on, put your multi meter on 20 vdc range. Attach you positive meter lead to the blue wire and the negative lead to the yellow with green tracer wire. you should see a voltage of 1 vdc to 4 vdc when rotating the sensor in either direction at about 65 degrees.
Also, do you have a service manual?

 

[CltFZ6]

I found a test procedure in the service manual. Remove the lean angle sensor from the bike so you can rotate it by hand. with the unit plugged in and the key on, put your multi meter on 20 vdc range. Attach you positive meter lead to the blue wire and the negative lead to the yellow with green tracer wire. you should see a voltage of 1 vdc to 4 vdc when rotating the sensor in either direction at about 65 degrees.
Also, do you have a service manual?

Yes, I do have the service manual and I will perform that test tomorrow and let you know!
I may have interpreted the codes incorrectly.

----Here are a list of all the codes and what they mean ----

D09: 0.0
should be 12.0 average

D20: on
Sidestand switch is on

D21: on
neutral is on

D61: 00
no code history

D62: 00
no malfunction code history

D01: 16
throttle position is closed
15-17 is a good reading

D03: 99
intake air pressure
*dont know if this is a good reading

D05: 43 degrees
intake temp

D06: 54 degrees
Coolant temp

D07: 0
Vehicle speed pulse to rear wheel
0-999

D08: 0.6
Lean angle sensor
0.4 - 1.4 is upright
3.8 - 4.2 is overturned
___________________________
With the code D09 being 0.0 it means my fuel pump is not getting correct voltage and it may be even as simple as my battery not being good enough. Even with it being able to turn on and turn the starter (Crank) it still may not be providing enough or power at all to the fuel pump, possibly being the culprit.

Apologies for any confusion/ following a dead lead with the lean angle sensor as it may not be bad, but will run your recommended test tomorrow and keep you updated.

*Also to note, I have no error codes on my dashboard such as 43. So it may be a much more minute or isolated issue related to the fuel pump not priming during the start up procedure

 

[CltFZ6]

Update!!
There was a similar forum post I was able to find (https://www.600riders.com/threads/solved-error-1-error-12-no-start-weird-sound.60310/page-2)
The user was having the same issue as I was and after replacing the battery it cranked right up without issue... will replace the battery and get back to ya'll.
Honestly I am not used to the complications of technology that come with a newer to me model year of motorcycle. I am used to working on my 2003 CBR 600RR did a full rebuild on that bike.

 

[Motogiro]

Update!!
There was a similar forum post I was able to find (https://www.600riders.com/threads/solved-error-1-error-12-no-start-weird-sound.60310/page-2)
The user was having the same issue as I was and after replacing the battery it cranked right up without issue... will replace the battery and get back to ya'll.
Honestly I am not used to the complications of technology that come with a newer to me model year of motorcycle. I am used to working on my 2003 CBR 600RR did a full rebuild on that bike.

Before you jump on a new battery. There is a red with blue tracer wire on the plug under the fuel pump. You should see +12 vdc with your meter or 12 volt test light. If there is no voltage your Fuel pump/injector fuse may be blown.

 

[CltFZ6]

Before you jump on a new battery. There is a red with blue tracer wire on the plug under the fuel pump. You should see +12 vdc with your meter or 12 volt test light. If there is no voltage your Fuel pump/injector fuse may be blown.

Tested, no fuse is blown and the pump turns on when I bypass power straight to it. Brought the battery to autozone and it was good health but too low of a charge. On the way home to install and test it now.

 

[CltFZ6]

here are some videos I have taken that may give a bit more detail.
Uploaded via YouTube shorts

 

[CltFZ6]

I cleaned a connector/relay that had water in it… turn signal relay. And now when I have the kill switch in the on position (to start the bike) and I turn the key, the fuel pump primes. But still no start as no fuel is reaching the engine.


In addition to that, if I have the kill switch to the (kill position, or off position), and then turn the key on, and cycle the kill switch to (on), the fuel pump doesn’t prime.

I am truly stumped at this point. There is an electrical gremlin somewhere and the bike isn’t getting fuel…

Testing all the relays again tomorrow.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Probably not part of your issue HOWEVER, the handle bar KILL SWITCH is
a known issue for failure.

It's been documented, NOT to use that switch (un-less an emergency) as
regular use leads to failure..

IE, leave the switch in the RUN POSITION, always.... Just turn the bike on and off by THE IGNITION SWITCH..


.

.

 

[grahammarsden]

Have you checked continuity on the handlebar Kill Switch?

I had a fault with mine that I fixed by stripping down the switch and cleaning the contacts, after which it was fine.

 

[trepetti]

Probably not part of your issue HOWEVER, the handle bar KILL SWITCH is
a known issue for failure.

It's been documented, NOT to use that switch (un-less an emergency) as
regular use leads to failure..

IE, leave the switch in the RUN POSITION, always.... Just turn the bike on and off by THE IGNITION SWITCH..


.

.

+1. I had this exact same issue on my 05 many years ago. As Scot says, this is a well known issue on the FZ6