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S2 Crank but no start. Low d09

Your mechanic sucks.

The fuel pressure is 2.5 bar….period. Fuel injection systems are not designed to work within a range, but at a specific value. This way the system is able to provide an exact metered amount of fuel.
Thank you for verifying..the common sense. I was starting to wonder about my ability to understand the basics. Now I have to to see if the pressure loss issue is gone and then deal with how to set the pressure at 2.5 without selling my kidney.
 
Here is the suspect. There is a code 6M21 on it. On the thread posted above the code was denso 4760 9J12. Dimensions are identical to the Ali regulator

My plan is :
- wait to see if the vapor lock is gone
- visit another garage or try measuring the pressure myself to verify the 3.2 bar
- see if I can correct the rich mixture from CO settings in diagnostic menu. But I am not sure if a) the 28% pressure increase from 2.5 to 3.2 is translated to the same increase in the fuel ratio b) how much % on fuel trim is each step on the CO settings. Negative values reduce fuel, correct? Is the ecu publishing the fuel trims somehow? I am afraid not. How can someone verify that the automatic fuel trims are below 10% (considered normal). Edit: just read that CO settings affect open loop. If this is correct, the only option is to install a 2.5 regulator.
- or give a try on the Chinese regulator
- none of the above and pretend everything is OK?
 

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If your CO settings are stock, from the factory, I would NOT mess with them.

You need to find the issue itself (seems your on your way).

**Should you decide to change the CO settings, RECORD THE ORIGINAL #'s and
don't loose them.. Each bike is different

.
 
Send them an email and ask the adjustment range, and how it is adjusted. I will be very surprised if it is really adjustable, I think it is an error in translation. Probably they mean that it 'adjusts' the fuel pressure to a higher value than stock (likely 3.0 or 3.5 bar).
If the mechanic has changed the regulator, try it out and see if the problem is fixed. Even if it's the wrong pressure and used, it's not likely to also be faulty.
 
I have already contacted them. I will be on vacation the next two weeks so the bike will be resting too. I m curious if it starts ok after two weeks. Then will be used daily so I will know soon how it goes. I would be more confident if there new orings fitted also.
 
just spoke to the mechanic. He had the pressure gauge connected and most of the times he had 3.2 bar. Once the pressure was lost so he decided to replace the pressure regulator, fitting a used one from another pump and he has now the bike giving 3.2 again, as he insists that this is the correct value and 2.5 is the minimum required to work correctly.

the problem re-appeared. If its a vapor lock indeed, it wasn't resolved by replacing the pressure regulator. Could it be the fuel pump motor itself ? The mechanic had verified that the pressure was lost once in front of his eyes. Claimed that the only suspect is the pressure regulator and replaced it. AI says there is a check valve inside the motor which could be faulty but I am not sure if this is actually true or not (i mean if a check valve actually exists, as i think of it there should be one, preventing back-flow, but the mechanic said there is no check valve in it, which got me confused. Or he just said that to avoid replacing he pump motor he fitted earlier on February)

Edit: this morning when it failed to start with two or three attempts ( 4-5 seconds each) i left it and went to work with my car. I tried again once this afternoon, it did not start and keeping the ignition on, i installed a spark tester and retried, it started ok with 3 cylinders ( the tester's negative connected to chassis). I was expecting to keep failing and check if there is a spark during the problem but it decided to work just the time I did not want it to!!

 
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I ve got two pressure regulators 2.5 bar in my hands. I have also arranged with the mechanic to replace the pump motor again in case it's the internal check valve that is occasionally leaking. But I am not sure if it is wise to make 2 changes at the same time.
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I am not sure if it is wise to make 2 changes at the same time.
It's not.

When testing for a fault, bug, whatever, always minimise your variables, otherwise you're still not going to be sure what the issue was.

Change the easiest one and test.

If the fault re-occurs, it's probably the other one that was the cause.

If it doesn't, you've saved yourself the hassle.

Of course if changing both still doesn't fix it, you've eliminated them as a cause, so you can move on to trying something else.
 
Now it's getting more complicated. Today it refused to start. Primed 4 - 5 times, i even entered at diagnostic d09 to activate the pump continuously. No luck. I connected the spark tester and I only got one spark during one minute of cranking. Here is a few seconds video.
I ve also got error 12 on the display. Does it send spark with the error on ? And why one spark only?

 
Now it's getting more complicated. Today it refused to start. Primed 4 - 5 times, i even entered at diagnostic d09 to activate the pump continuously. No luck. I connected the spark tester and I only got one spark during one minute of cranking. Here is a few seconds video.
I ve also got error 12 on the display. Does it send spark with the error on ? And why one spark only?

Error 12 is your crank shaft position sensor.
 
Today (12 hours after not being able to start it and having error 12 and battery kind of exausted) I plugged for a while the battery charger ( i have a dedicated socket ) and entered the diagnostics menu to erase the error 12 and retry. I haven't been able to delete it on d62. During d61 the pump was activated (as it does on d09 with the red switch on). I think the kill switch was on when i entered the diagnostics (i read somewhere that it has to be off). Could it be the case that i could not delete the error? After exiting the diagnostics, turning the ignition back on the error was there, engine light constantly on (charger still connected) and about 10 seconds later engine light was off, error gone (without pressing any buttons) so I switched off, removed the charger, retried and the engine started at once, just like nothing has been ever happened. No issues during my ride to work.
 
A code that can also get registered when the voltage gets low.
True but his cranking sound like his battery is good. Maybe it's an old code? I would check the ECU pins and make sure the plug is clean and secure.
 
True but his cranking sound like his battery is good. Maybe it's an old code? I would check the ECU pins and make sure the plug is clean and secure.
The video does seem to show a healthy battery, but was the code 12 registered 4 or 5 attempts later? Plus, if the voltage drops during cranking a code will be registered.

I guess the point of my post was to not chase random codes and focus on the symptoms. A low battery will result in poor spark.
 
The bike will store error codes, but that won't affect what happens *now*, it's just a record of what happened in the past.
 
The video does seem to show a healthy battery, but was the code 12 registered 4 or 5 attempts later? Plus, if the voltage drops during cranking a code will be registered.

I guess the point of my post was to not chase random codes and focus on the symptoms. A low battery will result in poor spark.
I agree about low voltage and the ECU throwing random codes. In post 51 it was stated there was only 1 spark registered. If there were no additional spark events registered during the crank when the battery was healthy it could be the CPS if a 12 was registered.
We're at the chicken or the egg. Is the battery dead because the engine was continually cranked because there is an intermittent CPS failure? Or ......?
Codes are generated at the moment they occur and are stored. We should not dismissed all codes even though low battery will get the ECU to throw flags on the field.
 
This afternoon leaving work the bike refused to start again. Did not have the spark tester with me unfortunately. I primed via d09 and it started but I had to do this more than once. After half an hour of riding without any symptoms I turned off the engine for 5 minutes at the post office ( near the mechanic) to receive a fuel pressure gauge I had ordered. My plan was to monitor the fuel pressure myself with the help of my car mechanic (keeping an eye on spark too) to understand what is happening. But the bike failed to start again. While thinking pushing it to the bike mechanic it started on my last attempt with struggle (after repeated priming and deleting a d61 12 error, stored probably from last night, not appearing at the main screen.) I went to the mechanic and left it there. He was supposed to replace the pump motor as soon as his provider would send the part. But as he informed me he had ordered a used full pump assembly, removed from a working bike same as mine and will fit it as it is, probably tomorrow. I asked him to put the new filter (the one installed on February on my pump ) and I hope he will. I mentioned the error 12 appearing again last night and he blamed the the low voltage since he had measured a pulse the previous time I had the same error. Voltage did not drop below 11v during the last cranking though. I also asked if the ecu stops sending pulse when error 12 appears but he was not sure.
My guess is that when the fault is present the error appears on the main screen and also gets registered at d61. When the fault goes away for some reason the error indication disappears from the main display some seconds later after the ignition is turned back on but d61 keeps stored the error for troubleshooting reasons. Am i guessing right?

What confuses me is the single spark during cranking. I have cleaned the ecu pins and connector with contact cleaner and enhanced ecu grounding. But the sensor itself, its connector and wiring has not been checked by me at least, the mechanic just said he measured a pulse so its fine. What I know is that usually the crankshaft sensor fails when hot and restores operation when cold.

Today the mechanic also revealed that he changed the pump motor just because the filter goes together with a motor as an aftermarket part. Where is the old motor I asked and said he threw it away. No sense at all. So I am afraid all this hassle was actually for nothing. I had a bike with just a clogged fuel filter, now i ve got a bike with 3.2 bar fuel pressure and intermittent starting failure and no successful diagnosis, not even if it's fuel or electrical.

I searched for other mechanics and the only one who had excellent google maps rating told me to visit him next month since he has a full schedule until his summer vacation. So I m kind of stuck for the time being on the same mechanic while my bike keeps failing almost daily.
 
This afternoon leaving work the bike refused to start again. Did not have the spark tester with me unfortunately. I primed via d09 and it started but I had to do this more than once. After half an hour of riding without any symptoms I turned off the engine for 5 minutes at the post office ( near the mechanic) to receive a fuel pressure gauge I had ordered. My plan was to monitor the fuel pressure myself with the help of my car mechanic (keeping an eye on spark too) to understand what is happening. But the bike failed to start again. While thinking pushing it to the bike mechanic it started on my last attempt with struggle (after repeated priming and deleting a d61 12 error, stored probably from last night, not appearing at the main screen.) I went to the mechanic and left it there. He was supposed to replace the pump motor as soon as his provider would send the part. But as he informed me he had ordered a used full pump assembly, removed from a working bike same as mine and will fit it as it is, probably tomorrow. I asked him to put the new filter (the one installed on February on my pump ) and I hope he will. I mentioned the error 12 appearing again last night and he blamed the the low voltage since he had measured a pulse the previous time I had the same error. Voltage did not drop below 11v during the last cranking though. I also asked if the ecu stops sending pulse when error 12 appears but he was not sure.
My guess is that when the fault is present the error appears on the main screen and also gets registered at d61. When the fault goes away for some reason the error indication disappears from the main display some seconds later after the ignition is turned back on but d61 keeps stored the error for troubleshooting reasons. Am i guessing right?

What confuses me is the single spark during cranking. I have cleaned the ecu pins and connector with contact cleaner and enhanced ecu grounding. But the sensor itself, its connector and wiring has not been checked by me at least, the mechanic just said he measured a pulse so its fine. What I know is that usually the crankshaft sensor fails when hot and restores operation when cold.

Today the mechanic also revealed that he changed the pump motor just because the filter goes together with a motor as an aftermarket part. Where is the old motor I asked and said he threw it away. No sense at all. So I am afraid all this hassle was actually for nothing. I had a bike with just a clogged fuel filter, now i ve got a bike with 3.2 bar fuel pressure and intermittent starting failure and no successful diagnosis, not even if it's fuel or electrical.

I searched for other mechanics and the only one who had excellent google maps rating told me to visit him next month since he has a full schedule until his summer vacation. So I m kind of stuck for the time being on the same mechanic while my bike keeps failing almost daily.
To answer the error 12 code question. The computer will store that code but if the CPS is working the ECU will continue as normal.
 
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