2006 exhaust super stinky

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
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I couldn't hear anything unusual on video #2 (with the wind) but both audios, the engine didn't sound rich at all.. I was hoping it'd be obvious but it isn't.

No excess black smoke either...

BTW, super clean bike!

.
 

vinmansbrew

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A plugchop tells the current state. If it's rich, it'll show, especially if it's really rich. Then there would be puffy black deposits. The insulator really tells a story. DensoSparkPlugChart.jpg
 

vinmansbrew

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I couldn't hear anything unusual on video #2 (with the wind) but both audios, the engine didn't sound rich at all.. I was hoping it'd be obvious but it isn't.

No excess black smoke either...

BTW, super clean bike!

.
Thanks! It just recently got washed, it doesn't happen often! The video isn't as sensitive as an ear is, unfortunately. The manual tensioner helped with some engine noise, but the idle is still slightly lumpy, but that could just be me being picky. It isn't as smooth as when I had my old cb750 running, but the engine is designed different.

As the coolant is technically up for replacement, I'll just pull the plugs and see what I see, since I have to drain things to give myself enough room. I'll have to find my manual, it's for an 07, but I imagine the air screws work the same.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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As the coolant is technically up for replacement, I'll just pull the plugs and see what I see, since I have to drain things to give myself enough room. I'll have to find my manual, it's for an 07, but I imagine the air screws work the same.

Those TB air screws (probably already know) help with syncing the TB's at low RPMs (4K and under).

On carbs (again as you probably know), the air screws (low speed) make a big difference in low RPM performance.

The base screw for the FZ setting is between 3/4 and 7/8 a turn out for it's setting, which is NOT listed in the shop manual. If you had issues getting a lower idle or no adjustment with the other screws, OPENING UP the base screw a tad would give you more adjustment (in the other cylinders).

I also have pretty big hands but was able to pull the plugs(R&R with a torque wrench also on an '07) W/O pulling the radiator/coolant. Some scruffing to the hands but was do-able.


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vinmansbrew

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I ran across a base setting of 1 turn out and went with that, but even a quarter turn can make a big difference. In the end, all 4 cylinders were just about even at idle and 4k.

I've been reading around, as other bikes have this as a common issue. Some have noticed even fuel brand can make a difference. And I suppose it can depending on the additives used. Pipes with longer tips, which basically just get the exhaust out further. Power Commanders were another thing. Well, I'll give pulling the plugs without removing the radiator a try. If anything, they'll tell me if I am barking up the wrong tree. I was just trying to skate around it since it was such a pain last time!
 

vinmansbrew

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Ok, so I moved the radiator and pulled the battery so I could flex the tray enough to get wires out of the way. Got all 4 plugs out and I doubt running rich is my issue. 1,2,3,4 left to right in the pic. Very little on insulator while tip and thread surface is pretty nice. Oh and since I don't think I mentioned it, startup is good. Hard to stopwatch but 1-1.5 seconds, maybe 2 and it fires up. I know the smell never used to be there, but since rich is not my issue, I am leaning to clogged/dirty cat.
 

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vinmansbrew

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I didn't do the ground wire, but I looked at the diag numbers. Any of these make sense? First number is the D number. Second is the value.

D01 17
D03 98
D05 35
D06 32
D07 0
D08 .6
D09 114
D20 on
D21 on
D{30 31 36 37 48 50 51 52 60} 00
D61 19
D62 2
D70 0
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Ok, so I moved the radiator and pulled the battery so I could flex the tray enough to get wires out of the way. Got all 4 plugs out and I doubt running rich is my issue. 1,2,3,4 left to right in the pic. Very little on insulator while tip and thread surface is pretty nice. Oh and since I don't think I mentioned it, startup is good. Hard to stopwatch but 1-1.5 seconds, maybe 2 and it fires up. I know the smell never used to be there, but since rich is not my issue, I am leaning to clogged/dirty cat.

Those spark plugs couldn't be any better and agreed, the engine isn't running rich.

.
 

vinmansbrew

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Ok, so been busy, but a couple weeks back I pulled off my cat. Sealed up 1 end and filled it with vinegar. Nice mild cleaner. Let it sit overnight, blew it out, and put it back on. I'd say 75% of the stench is gone.
So, a dirty ass cat was the issue. So, now I guess I make a choice, get a stronger cleaner or dump the cat. I'll probably get a stronger cleaner and try that. If it kills my cat, I guess oh well. At least I know what stunk so bad.
 

Motogiro

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A home improvement supply may have the vinegar you're looking for. This link is to a 30% vinegar I use for general cleaning. you can dilute it to get closer to the strength you want to use.
Might be strong enough to kill your cat and your dog...
 

vinmansbrew

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A home improvement supply may have the vinegar you're looking for. This link is to a 30% vinegar I use for general cleaning. you can dilute it to get closer to the strength you want to use.
Might be strong enough to kill your cat and your dog...
Heh, that would probably do the trick. Household vinegar isn't that strong, usually.
 
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