Aftermarket Tach/Speedo Gauge

[MonteFZ6]

I have purchase a cheap knock off digital tach/speedo gauge. Halfway to completing the install. I'm not going to bother with the Gear indicator but I have successfully powered it, hooked up the high beam indicator, turn signals, and speed sensor. RPM works off of the signal from the CPS or right off the coil and the cylinder count is adjustable so its pretty universal. I'm having trouble locating the correct wire off the CPS or locating the CPS at all. I found a connector with one light grey wire and one dark grey wire. I tested both by bumping the starter but didn't see the tach bounce at all. I did the same with the coil posts but still didn't get a signal from simply bumping the starter. Do i need to have the bike running to test it? I currently have the tank off.

Also which of the two connectors on the bottom of the tank is for the fuel level? I know one is for the pump and the other for the level but I'm unsure which...

Lastly, the previous owner who laid the bike down has moved the ignition under the seat and had jerry-rigged a few things. There is a blue connector under the seat with two wire coming out of it and going into a smooth loom and down in front of the gear selector pedal. They have been spliced together. Is this the neutral safety switch? Can i find the neutral signal off this wire?

Here is the gauge:

52mm Universal Motorcycle Digital Odometer KM H Speedometer Gauge LED Backlight | eBay

Wondering if others have gone this route

 

[Motogiro]

This a basic repeat of info I shared previously in regard to what you are trying to accomplish. Again, not saying you can't, but instead I'm trying to give you information that should be considered in reference to this. I know some of the information may be in language that is unfamiliar and because of this you may miss the points I'm trying to share.

Most all of the data to the FZ6 is sent from the ECU to a CPU in the FZ6 instrument cluster. The ECU/ECM gets signal from sensors that are impedance matched the inputs of the ECU. If there is mismatching there will be 2 problems. One problem can be the ECU/ECM will not receive the correct signal which can effect it's output to run the engine. The other problem of a mismatch can be the incorrect read out on the instrument trying to make sense of a signal from a sensor designed for a different process. I'm not saying it can't be done. I am saying that you are subject to applying potential voltage/current not designed for instrument readout or worse the ECU/ECM!
Fuel, temp, speed, rpm are all sensors designed to work with the specific CPU processing of the Yamaha instrument cluster as are many cluster of modern bike today. The left and right turn signals, high beam, and low oil indicator lights are independent of the CPU. Those are the easy hookups.

The CPS (Crank Position Sensor #17 on the schematic) is located on the lower right hand side of the engine. There is a cover with a large round straight slot in it. The cover should have 3 wires exiting. According to the schematic, the yellow with a green tracer should be the CPS signal going back to the ECM. Again I want to say this signal may not be a good source without knowing what it's impedance was designed for. It may be fine.

On your fuel gauge sensor, There should be 2 different plugs that plug into the under side of your fuel tank. One plug is the fuel gauge. It's wire colors are black and green with a white tracer. Use the green with white tracer wire.The other plug is for the fuel pump.

Study your schematic and the page that lists the electrical components for a while to become more familiar and it may make better sense.
Again form our previous communication I recommend the Yamaha readout designed for your application.

 

[MonteFZ6]

Thank you so much. I tried to respond to your email but I'm not certain it went through. In it i had agreed that the actual cluster would be the easy and correct route but the previous owner had laid the bike down in such a way that the ignition is now behind my leg when sitting on the bike. Ergo, many wire have been cut out of the two harnesses that i assume would go to the factory instrument cluster. That plus the cost of a used instrument cluster and the scarce information I have about the pin out colors I'm just hesitant to go that route. I do agree and completely respect you suggesting to do the right thing.

If this does work out (and with your information I'm pretty sure it will), maybe a few others can benefit from it. Ill do some pics. and see if i can post a video of it working. Aside from having to locate and test all the individual wires and some wires only going hot after the engine is on, it hasn't been to terrible of a project.

I did get the manual with the wiring diagram and am currently researching how to read that. I've always been pretty handy but don't know a lot of the fundamentals and for that i apologize. Its also my first real bike and i'm having trouble determining the various parts of the engine with certainty. Ive become familiar with the throttlebodies and the TPS and with fun security screws.

Any idea what the blue connector is under the seat? It runs two wires down in front of the gear selector pedal. Previous owner spliced em together. Bike runs fine so im assuming its a bypassed safty cutoff measure?

Thanks for all you help!

 

[FinalImpact]

CPS is 2 wires and you want the grey. Also I would think you would need to know how many humps are on the trigger wheel or you will be guessing at flipping the switches.

Keep in mind this is waste spark ignition and one coil is firing two cylinders. Hence wasting a spark on the cylinder on its exhaust stroke. So, your setting from 4 cylinder may need to be 2 cylinder!

To Cliff's point, in its original form the ecu is interpreting sensor data based on known rates and or slopes and it is doing that behind the scenes without the gauge cluster. However, a tap into a sensor could alter its behavior and make the data skewed or invalid. The ecu data stream output to the gauge is multiplexed carrying diagnostic data, tach, engine air and coolant temp, fuel level, CEL, Overtemp light, etc.... Some of this stuff can not be replaced by a generic meter.

Good luck!

 

[Motogiro]

CPS is 2 wires and you want the grey.

Correct the op's bike is S1 and I was looking at the S2 schematic. They changed it to a 3 wire on the S2 CPS.

 

[FinalImpact]

My 08 S2 is 2 wire and the schizmo shows two wire... NBD...

Remember the thread Playing with Trigger? May be picture in there...

 

[Motogiro]

Jeez I was looking at the lean angle sensor... :disapprove::spank: Time to reprint my coffee stained schematics LOL! Both S1 and S2 are the same...

 

[MonteFZ6]

Man, i really should gotten the stock Speedo...Lol!

Told you those schematics are hard to read!