Ashamed, can't get stripped oil filter off

long101

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So it was finally riding weather in chicago, I drain my oil, and can't get my damn Mobil 1 filter off. I've tried everything I can think off (I bought 2 filter wrenches and still won't budge). I even half assed the screw driver trick and still can't get it to move. I can't get enough leverage in such a small place.

I think I might have to get my bike towed to a shop. But will they even be able to get it off? Not sure what they will be able to use that I don't have, other then a lift to get in there. Are there any other last ditch attempts I should try before taking a day of work and spending a few hundred bucks?

Thanks yall
 

Shiny_side_up

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I did basically the same thing the first time I removed mine - I ended up using a filter wrench and "shimming" it with torn up business cards to make it so tight a fit that I had to tap it on with a hammer - that allowed me to use a nice long socket wrench to remove it. Without the shims, it would just slip pitifully.

Good luck.

(and now I use the K&N filters with the welded on nut...)
 

trepetti

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Post a picture of the current state of the oil filter. Not sure what type of wrenches you tried, but I have always had good luck using a strap wrench on reluctant filters. If the strap wrench is too big to get a grip, wrap the filter with a small towel to take up the slack.

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Y

yourebarred

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Never had an oil filter I couldn't skewer with a screwdriver and force off..
Buy one with a nut head next time ;)
 

oaks

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It may come to using some channel lock pliers if there isn't much left to grab onto.

Be careful of plastic bits inside the filter breaking and getting knocked into the engine.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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It may come to using some channel lock pliers if there isn't much left to grab onto.

Be careful of plastic bits inside the filter breaking and getting knocked into the engine.

+1 ^^^ if its that bad. You basically just have to break the rubber seal at the base of the filter. To keep broke parts of the filter from falling into the engine, use the channel locks towards the outside of the filter (yes its farther away from where its sticking but you don't to drop filter parts into the engine).

Squeeze down good and tight, get the filter steel compressed and lean on it CC.

If need be, a heat gun blowing on the filter, (where the seal will be) should help break it loose without damaging anything on the bike/engine...

If you can get a good bite at the base without alot of crushing/damage, it'd be easier to break that seal loose..

All the above posts is all the shop is going to do, no secrets, save your money...

Good luck
 

FZ09Bandit

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Take you a screwdriver, and tap it to the filter with a hammer. Unscrew

Or a tire iron with a flat bar on the end.
 
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fb40dash5

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What kinda filter wrench did you try?

The cap style has its place, and that place is engines where you can't get a good grip with anything else. If you've ever changed the oil on a newer Audi V6 and know the phrase "unplug left motor mount connector and remove oil filter canister" then you know what I mean. Yes, I'm dead serious. Otherwise, they kinda suck IMO.

Nylon or rubber strap wrenches can also have a place, but I've never had luck using them in a spot where I couldn't fit a proper filter wrench. They work on some things and can come in really handy, but oil filters just aren't their best use. The screwdriver trick, well, as you can see it's messy, and sometimes you end up just ripping sheet metal. If that's your attack, try to get the tip just through the opposite wall, and use a 5/16 or 3/8 slotted screwdriver.

99% of the time, a metal, strap-style wrench gets it done. I've had times I couldn't make it work due to space, but if I can get it on with the handle perpendicular, I've never failed to remove a filter. I have, however, thrown my elbow out due to a combination of horrible filter locations, and Jiffy Lube ***holes who I swear think oil filters have a triple-digit torque spec. It's not a *&#%@ lug nut! If you haven't tried a (properly sized) metal strap wrench, try to find a Lisle 54400, or something in the 60-68mm grip range. You can put some serious muscle on those things without slipping. Amazon sells it for $9, or you might get lucky and find one at Sears or a local parts store... I'd try Napa in particular.

And lube the o-ring on the new one up good, don't overtighten it, and maybe try that fancy K&N. Real convenient to have the same size hex on the filter & drain plug. :D
 

darius

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What are you doing on this forum reading away at the computer screen? That filter in your garage is out there laughing at you! Grab that sucker like a man with both hands and TWIST! :D

Seriously a strap wrench should really get the job done. If it's slipping, you need more friction. Go around it with masking tape but fold it back over sticky side out after a revolution or two. Using tape like that will also give gloved hands more grip.

Get that b*stard thing off your bike. You can do it. :thumbup:
 

JoeSTL

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It may come to using some channel lock pliers if there isn't much left to grab onto.

I had to use those a couple times as well. Filter wrenches have never worked for me. Usually I can just turn it off by hand, but if I need some assistance, the channel lock pliers have worked every time!
 

long101

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Thanks for the words yall, I'm almost at the point of looking for a new fz6 :)

I have tried pliers like these
OEM/Large oil filter pliers (25449) | Oil Filter Wrench | AutoZone.com

And a wrench like this
OEM/Heavy duty oil and gas filter wrench (25129) | Oil Filter Wrench | AutoZone.com

Neither are optimal due to the space contraint. The filter is still in tact, but has a whole or two in it from the screw driver trick. Sadly, I was the last person to put the filter on, so my fault for tightening it too tight. Ill try to get a picture up after work
 

2006_FZ6

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Use the channel locks as others have said. Make sure you are loosening the filter. Lefty loosey, righty tighty.

Don't be afraid to abuse the existing filter on your bike. After all, you're just throwing it away right? Grip firmily with those channel locks. Good luck and let us know how it goes!
 

Andz

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I didn't even think of anything else when it came to removing my filter, other than whacking a big flat screwdriver through it and unscrewing it. You're going to toss it anyway.
 

lawlberg

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People keep overlooking the screwdriver approach.

Jam it in and torque to your hearts content. It's a 'USED' oil filter. The only reason you need a good wrench for these things is if you have a cartridge style filter, like on my car. :( Time for a rant. My filter doesn't even have the metal housing, it sits in a plastic cup that is part of the car, it's just a little paper media insert and yet it's still 4x as expensive as normal oil filters.
 

darius

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Thanks for the words yall, I'm almost at the point of looking for a new fz6 :)

If you do, make sure it's just had an oil change! Blah

You'll get it off with that strap wrench if you just lay under the bike and pull the handle towards yourself. Should be plenty of torque if you can keep it from slipping.

Plenty of room to get a decent enough angle on it. Look forward to changing the spark plugs..
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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People keep overlooking the screwdriver approach.

Jam it in and torque to your hearts content. It's a 'USED' oil filter. The only reason you need a good wrench for these things is if you have a cartridge style filter, like on my car. :( Time for a rant. My filter doesn't even have the metal housing, it sits in a plastic cup that is part of the car, it's just a little paper media insert and yet it's still 4x as expensive as normal oil filters.

It sounds as if its already pretty much destroyed. Just care in NOT nicking the gasket surface on the block is all that's needed.

As a side note, about two weeks ago (maybe longer) a member, after an oil change found a wird piece of plastic in his oil drip pan after a change. It was later determined to be part of the Yamaha oil filter which is indeed different internally than most. That plastic, was apparenty part of the supporting section inside the oil filter.

As a side note, I just changed the oil in my Yamaha F150 HP, 4 stroke outboard engine. That steel filter had the exact same support ridges internally as what was posted here on that thread.

It's not likely a broken, plastic support ridge(if a Yamaha oil filter) will get thru the mounting plate but I would be paying attention to it.
 

bd43

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iviyth0s

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+1 this is what I used after mangling mine (stupid slick regular Purolator) and now I have a PureOne on there so hopefully the grip of the new one will let me get it off with just my hands.

God though, I never had such a struggle. Even tried the screw driver trick and the filter was too narrow for it to work so it just made it slicker and nastier to get off :rolleyes:
 

lawlberg

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It sounds as if its already pretty much destroyed. Just care in NOT nicking the gasket surface on the block is all that's needed.

As a side note, about two weeks ago (maybe longer) a member, after an oil change found a wird piece of plastic in his oil drip pan after a change. It was later determined to be part of the Yamaha oil filter which is indeed different internally than most. That plastic, was apparenty part of the supporting section inside the oil filter.

As a side note, I just changed the oil in my Yamaha F150 HP, 4 stroke outboard engine. That steel filter had the exact same support ridges internally as what was posted here on that thread.

It's not likely a broken, plastic support ridge(if a Yamaha oil filter) will get thru the mounting plate but I would be paying attention to it.

Thanks for keeping me in check, Scott. The redneck in me gets loose every once in a while.
 
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