Bad running fz6

azbusa

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Hello to all! We got Mike's '05 fz6 with 17k+ running after it's been sitting over a year, maybe as long as two. Fresh Chevron's in the tank with injector cleaner. At idle, revs slowly decrease until engine dies, which takes several minutes. If I blip the throttle just off idle until the revs pick up, I can keep it going in the range of 1.5-2k but it won't do higher RPM's unless I fuel by hand into the intake. Pump checks ok (dealer says it either works or doesn't. True?) but symptoms say the thing's starved for fuel. Mike would appreciate some advice, and I just wanna go fly my Busa.thumb_WooHoo.gif Thanks!
 
I would take a look at the injectors, they can be really gunked up
the pump functioning or not functioning shouldnt matter at an idle under zero load...but you will find out quickly as soon as you try and ride it:thumbup:

the pump will turn on and work for a few min then turn off and the engine vacuum will pull fuel but not enough to be useful under load, usually turning it off and back on cycles the pump and turns it back on. (in cars anyways)
 
A man after my own heart, I'm having that beer as I type! Is "taking a look" at the injectors something my pal can do? The dealership says it is a JOB.
Thanks for the quick come-back, yamihoe, and Merry Christmas to ya! azbusa
 
Hey Motogiro! Is that you in the pic with your mirror about a foot off the ground in San Diego?! Pretty sure Mike doesn't know what TPS is and neither do I. Hate to look like a DA (dumb avocado), but cyeal (could you elaborate a little)? Thanks. azbusa.
 
TPS = throttle position sensor. Some bikes from either 04 or 05(someone chime in) had a problem with theirs and they were recalled. It would cause the bike to die randomly.
 
I believe the problem is not related to a defective TPS, and refer to my earlier question to yamihoe, regarding taking a look at possibly gunked-up injectors. The Ridenow dealership says doing them is a real pain. Can you speak to injector issues from personal knowledge? Thanks for your input.
 
i'd make sure the wiring harness and TPS was perfect, then pull the fuel injectors and soak them in PB Blaster for three days, then check their spray pattern.

2 years' old fuel = gummy gunk

give pb plaster a chance on anything that's stuck/carbon'd, it's a great penetrant.

pblasterb.jpg
 
i'd make sure the wiring harness and TPS was perfect, then pull the fuel injectors and soak them in PB Blaster for three days, then check their spray pattern.

2 years' old fuel = gummy gunk

give pb plaster a chance on anything that's stuck/carbon'd, it's a great penetrant.

pblasterb.jpg

PB Blaster? Um, no.

Soak them in CARB CLEANER. Something like B-12. You can also buy gallon cans of carb cleaner that has a basket in it for easy part removal.

The TB's/injectors are most likely gummed/lacquered up. They need to be disassembled and cleaned.
 
I believe the problem is not related to a defective TPS, and refer to my earlier question to yamihoe, regarding taking a look at possibly gunked-up injectors. The Ridenow dealership says doing them is a real pain. Can you speak to injector issues from personal knowledge? Thanks for your input.

I agree. I'm 99% sure that this is purely fuel related, especially since it's been sitting for so long.

I've worked on single carbs on ATV's before, and though a pain, they're not too bad. To do injectors and throttle bodies, just getting to them is most likely the hardest work. Once you get to them, it's a matter of going one step at a time, and taking your time. Shouldn't be too bad.

Grab a shop/repair manual and take a look.
 
TPS = throttle position sensor. Some bikes from either 04 or 05(someone chime in) had a problem with theirs and they were recalled. It would cause the bike to die randomly.


The recall was done for both 05 an 06 FZ6's.

Recalls - Search Results | Safercar.gov | NHTSA

Although your issue sounds more like gummed up injectors.


I believe there was another recall on the 04 and 05's the lock nut and washer for the drive sprocket.
 
LOADS of experience with car FI systems (ASE :rockon:), but very little with motorcycles....
carbs and FI systems are simple in nature but still worlds apart.
its a PITA to get to the injectors, deff hold it to 6 beers tops, but after all that you will know your bike much better, inside and out. :thumbup:
 
Mike and I thank you all for your timely replies. We'll wrench for a bit and let you know how it turns out.
 
Hey Motogiro! Is that you in the pic with your mirror about a foot off the ground in San Diego?! Pretty sure Mike doesn't know what TPS is and neither do I. Hate to look like a DA (dumb avocado), but cyeal (could you elaborate a little)? Thanks. azbusa.


Yeah that's me in this tight little ascending hairpin turn we like to ride near here. The GoPro 170 deg lens makes it look more dramatic. :D

I was looking for the mode you put your readout in to test the TPS. Once you have the sequence it's easy to see the TPS condition by just opening and closing throttle slowly. I'm with the majority on this the make sure your injectors are clear.

Do you have a service manual? It will show the sequence to get the read out into the diagnostic mode to test the TPS if you need to do that.
 
Do you have a service manual? It will show the sequence to get the read out into the diagnostic mode to test the TPS if you need to do that.

I believe this is the sequence
Setting the diagnostic mode
1. Turn the main switch to OFF and set the engine
stop switch to OFF.
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from
the fuel pump.
3. Simultaneously press and hold the SELECT
and RESET buttons, turn the main
switch to ON, and continue to press the buttons
for 8 seconds or more.
All displays on the meter disappear except the
clock and tripmeter displays.
dIAG appears on the LCD meter.
4. Press the SELECT button to select the CO
adjustment mode Co or the diagnostic
mode dIAG.
5. After selecting dIAG, simultaneously press
the SELECT and RESET buttons for 2 seconds
or more to execute the selection.
6. Select the diagnostic code number that applies
to the item that was verified with the
fault code number by pressing the SELECT
and RESET buttons.
 
I believe this is the sequence
Setting the diagnostic mode
1. Turn the main switch to OFF and set the engine
stop switch to OFF.
2. Disconnect the wire harness coupler from
the fuel pump.
3. Simultaneously press and hold the SELECT
and RESET buttons, turn the main
switch to ON, and continue to press the buttons
for 8 seconds or more.
All displays on the meter disappear except the
clock and tripmeter displays.
dIAG appears on the LCD meter.
4. Press the SELECT button to select the CO
adjustment mode Co or the diagnostic
mode dIAG.
5. After selecting dIAG, simultaneously press
the SELECT and RESET buttons for 2 seconds
or more to execute the selection.
6. Select the diagnostic code number that applies
to the item that was verified with the
fault code number by pressing the SELECT
and RESET buttons.


Don't hold me to it but I think the display will read d01 16

The range of the reading should be around 16 - 100 for the entire throttle range.
 
Why not just dump the 2 year old fuel and put in some fresh ones together with some injector cleaner for a try first before you strip her apart.

My 2 cents.
 
Why not just dump the 2 year old fuel and put in some fresh ones together with some injector cleaner for a try first before you strip her apart.

My 2 cents.

Your about 8 months late, but then again, the original poster NEVER POSTED HIS RESULTS which would have been nice... :)

And +1, dump the fuel if its more than a month old and start with fresh..

Yamaha "RING FREE" is an excellent cleaner for the fuel system, top end, injectors, etc BTW....
 
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