Bike hard to jump, wont stay on, flames from exhaust, oh god what do i do

[Extremity]

Before I post, I want to make sure you guys know I did search, but it was hard to find a proper combination of keywords to use. I did find posts regarding batteries and I did try a bunch of different things, but I don't have a voltage meter so I couldn't do everything. I'm sorry if this has been talked about before! Anyways, onward...

I recently did the pod lights mod. My turn signals don't work as running lights since a tech replaced them after my crash (Uncle had it done for me or I would have myself), so I decided to connect them to the tail light. After not being able to find the proper hot wire, even when using a guide, I just decided to be lazy and I attached the power to the rear tail fuse on the right side of the bike (while sitting on it) and the ground to the frame. Pods worked fine, looked great, bike ran great, everything was fine.

I left my key in the "on" position in the bike like an idiot and it sat there for about 24 hours. Needless to say it was totally dead when I went out for a ride today. My neighbor helped me jump it, I let it run for a bit, put the tank back down, and took it for a ride down to the ATM. It lurched once on the road but other than that everything was fine. I let it idle while I was getting my cash, and on my way walking back to the bike it cut out and would not start. I had a small amount of power (gauges lit up a bit) but not enough to start it. I also heard a ticking sound from the left (while sitting) side of the bike, under the little "pod" next to the seat that pops out just by pulling out the two little snap-in connectors. Every time the key was in the "on" position I would hear the clicking, until the battery completely died again. The blue wire I tried to tap into for the pods was in this side, and I took the crimp out once it didn't work and wrapped the wire in electric tape, no wire exposed, should have been fine, just wanted to mention that just in case.

I noticed two cut wires on that side, blue and DARK brown (almost black). They looked cut by a razor, no wire exposed at the end, not torn or melted or anything, and they were tucked away in to the back. I think these were the two wires used to make the rear signals running lights and they werent used when the lights were replaced, and I think they've been like that for a while while the bike has been running great but I included pics at the bottom of this post just to be safe.

So I re-jumped the bike. At first it wouldnt jump, the cables would just spark where they connected to the battery terminals when I hit the starter - ie, I connect the cables, the bike gets power, I hear the fuel pump... but when I hit the starter button I just get a small spark and everything dies. Anyways, I eventually get it started. The bike is running like ****, it dies immediately if I don't keep it revved up. I did do searches and saw to keep the bike above 5k RPMs, but even after doing that for 10 minutes it still sounds like its choking or bogging down and dies when I let off the throttle. It also dies if I flip on my high beams, IMMEDIATELY.

It also seems to be running really... rich? When I twist the throttle to keep my RPMs up I'll get little pops with a flame shooting out of the two bros exhaust, I also get a similar little flame spurt when the RPMs are dropping after letting off the gas.

I took all of the wiring from the pod lights out. Everything is the way it was when the bike was working fine, none of the fuses (even the ones above the battery) are bad, all fluids are topped, every "might as well check that" thing has been looked at.

My bike is my car, I have nothing else, and I have school and work tomorrow. I'm totally screwed if I can't get this working. I know there are things I should do like get the battery looked at or replaced, but I can't get around to anywhere without the bike so I need a "It's most likely this" answer so I can just walk somewhere, get the part I need, and swap it. Would this most likely be a battery? Is it possible that it's old (it MIGHT be the original one still, it's a 2005 and I got it used, no idea if it is or not but it's very probable) and maybe I messed it up with the pod light wiring? I'm pretty sure everything was wrapped, I put it through the proper places, I used quick disconnects, never touched a hot to the frame as far as I know, but I guess we all make mistakes and I could have done something... Anyways, if it was the battery would the ignition sparks be weak making the bike compensate by sending more fuel, therefore making it run richer and create the bursts of flames out the exhaust? Is that a realistic explanation for the entire issue, or am I completely on the wrong page?

I know this is a long, drawn out post, but I've searched and tried things and I'm totally screwed if I can't make my exam tomorrow. I know that's lame but I a genuinely freaking out and rambling and oh god make it stop and help

Here are the pics of the two wires. I really don't think these are the issue, but the clicking sound WAS coming from this side. If anything, the only realistic POSSIBLE issue on this side's wiring would be the tail light wire that I tapped into to get power to the pod lights. Once I realized they didn't work I removed the crimp and tightly wrapped the wire with electric tape, going far enough down the wire to ensure a water-tight seal. Aside from that and the cut wires, everything else on that side should be A-OK.

Another note - the only extras aside from the pod lights (which aren't connected right now anyways) that consume electricity are Xenon replacement headlights. That's it.

Thank you in advance for any help you can offer, even speculation. While I do have decent car and electrical knowledge (enough to fix things on my own and follow instructions), I really have no in-depth experience with bikes and am clueless as to what to do. New battery? New alternator-thing (I know it's not an alternator, I forgot the name of it but you know what I'm talking about)? How much do those run? Is it going to break the bank? My bike is my favorite thing ever and has always been great to me, this is so devastating. I feel like my best friend is hurt or something!

 

[Extremity]

Oh, I forgot to mention. When I start it the check engine light is on. Sometimes if the bike will run at idle for a bit it will go off, but recently it was on solid when I had the bike running at about 5k RPM. When I would mess with the throttle (open, close, open, close to see how response was) the light would flash, but I couldn't tell if it was flashing at a steady rate or was just turning on and off based on throttle input. At one point before the battery was totally dead I did get the ER-1 message. This IS an 2005 would the TPS recall thing possibly be the problem? How can I check if it's ALREADY been brought regarding that recall? I did do the little gauge cluster test where you get to the special diag screen, and I had perfect results when twisting the throttle. That was about a week or two ago.

 

[chaskell27]

From what you have described, it certainly sounds like a bad battery. If it is the original battery it has most likely bit the big one and should be replaced. If not (I know you're not sure) then I would charge it up and take to to an auto parts store or something to get it load tested to see if it is ok.

A dead battery seems to answer all of the symptoms described with the exception of the flames and backfiring. Not sure what that is from but who knows. It seems to me that if the bike was running fine before and the only thing you did was drain the battery by leaving the key on, then all symptoms should be directly related to the dead battery.

If worst comes to worse you can always just tell the professor that your dog ate your key. I'm sure he'll believe you . j/k anyway good luck and let us know how it goes for you.

 

[Extremity]

From what you have described, it certainly sounds like a bad battery. If it is the original battery it has most likely bit the big one and should be replaced. If not (I know you're not sure) then I would charge it up and take to to an auto parts store or something to get it load tested to see if it is ok.

A dead battery seems to answer all of the symptoms described with the exception of the flames and backfiring. Not sure what that is from but who knows. It seems to me that if the bike was running fine before and the only thing you did was drain the battery by leaving the key on, then all symptoms should be directly related to the dead battery.

If worst comes to worse you can always just tell the professor that your dog ate your key. I'm sure he'll believe you . j/k anyway good luck and let us know how it goes for you.

Would a dead battery cause the "dying if I don't keep it above 5k" thing? Is it possible to be so dead that it wont even recharge after keeping the engine revved? What about the check engine light? Can that be triggered by a way-too-dead battery?

How easy is it to kill my bikes "alternator", whatever our equivalent to one of those is? Will jumping too many times from a car do it? I had the car off and never crossed the pos/neg or anything, but like I said, I did get some sparks when trying to hit the starter. God I hope it's just the battery... anybody know if they sell motorcycle batteries at autozone?

 

[chaskell27]

Let me first qualify this statement by saying that I am by no means an expert on the topic but from what I understand:

It does take roughly 5000 rpm to actually charge the battery from what others on the forum have experienced. before that mark, there is simply not enough power to run the motor as well as the drag caused by the electrical equipment i.e. lights, horn, etc. This is why your bike is stalling out. You need to have a strong enough charge in the battery to supplement the stator when running below 5k rpm as well as starting the bike.

I believe that the error code that you quoted is related to a lack of power (battery).

I would start by either charging and testing or just picking up a new battery. I'm not sure if autozone or the equivalent sells mc batteries but I would tend to doubt it. Give them a call and find out for sure (see if they'll deliver too).

Again my logic may be off but from my experience and the experiences of others on this forum, it sounds like a pooched battery. Pick up a new one and your troubles should be gone.

 

[sxty8goats]

I don't see anywhere in your story that you actually charged the battery. Your bikes charging system is not designed to charge a completely dead battery. So if your battery is dead and you jump start it, the bike can not 'recharge' it. Especially in the short run to the ATM.

The battery can be damaged buy running it down to dead. It is just the nature of the beast. If you can not afford to replace it outright, I would pull it and charge it off the bike. If it wasnt' bone dead I would charge in the bike but I wouldn't chance it with a batter that is so beat. You can get a cheep charger that charges at one or two amps at any K-Wall-Hipo-MART. They are about $20. They will charge a battery in 8 or 10 hours. Most of us that winter the bike will leave this type of charger attached all winter to maintain the charge.

All the symptoms you describe screem 'Dead Battery'... But you also seem to have a bit of goofy stuff going on with repairs.

Rear signals do not stay on as running lights. In most states, if not all, yellow running lights at the rear of a vehical are illegal. That is because we expect yellow lights to be approaching and red lights to be going away. That is how we tell back to front of a vehical and why you need amber running lights in addition to your headlight. They orientat the vehical to other drivers/riders. (And I could go on for hours about 'blue' headlights but I won't)

Your front signals are 'three wire' type. These are designed for a duel filliment bulb. One filliment burns/glows dimmer than the other. When your riding the dimmer filliment is lit, when you hit the turn signal, the brighter filliment flashes, while the other filliment stays on. There is a bit of odd ness in the set up that will keep the indicator functioning as a running light if one of these burns out. I did an experiment with LED's a week or so back and did a write up that described the wiring to make one section stay on and one section flash. Check it out if you are trying to figure out which lights are 'running lights' in the front and which are 'flashers'. The 'running' lights are the leads you would run to the pod.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...-ebay-cheepo-into-3-wire-led-ebay-cheepo.html

 

[Motogiro]

Additionally, Do Not Jump Start the bike with a car if the car engine is running. We have shunting voltage regulators and you can toast the voltage regulator on your bike if the car is running. Turn car engine off, connect jumpers to car, jump start bike, disconnect from car.

Always checks for loose dirty connections at battery.

 

[JAZZ-n-FZ6]

I killed my battery once so bad that I too had to keep it above 5K or it would stall out. Luckily all I had to do is buy a charger and the battery had life again. Good luck man.

Also, thanks for mentioning that Motogiro, I did not know that. I am happy I didn't toast it when I use to jump start it that way. Note taken for next time (if it happens).

 

[2-stroke]

I killed my battery by leaving the key on. I hooked it up to a charger and it wouldn't charge at all, it was the original battery in an 05'. It was cheaper for me to get a battery from the dealer than carquest, who tends to have motorcycle parts.

 

[Motogiro]

I forgot to add, the flames from the exhaust isn't a bad touch and some people like that stuff! :rockon:

 

[sxty8goats]

I forgot to add, the flames from the exhaust isn't a bad touch and some people like that stuff! :rockon:

yea, that was one symptom that I ignored. Likely something going rich due to in adequate voltage to the various sensors / computer. But that is just a W.A.G on my part. Until he has a fully charged and known to be good battery, the rest is up in the air. Pretty sure the battery will fix it.

 

[Extremity]

Additionally, Do Not Jump Start the bike with a car if the car engine is running. We have shunting voltage regulators and you can toast the voltage regulator on your bike if the car is running. Turn car engine off, connect jumpers to car, jump start bike, disconnect from car.

Yeah, I learned this from you guys, thank God. I've never jump started the bike from a running engine. Although I have jumped it from another bike that was running!

Always checks for loose dirty connections at battery.

I forgot to add, the flames from the exhaust isn't a bad touch and some people like that stuff! :rockon:

Haha, I'd probably like them more if they were shooting out the bike while my bike was actually running

...Rear signals do not stay on as running lights....

Well... crap. What's the best way to find out what those two wires are, then? Like I said they look cleanly cut and afaik they've been cut since I got the bike, I mean I know *I* didn't cut them.

So my girlfriend is on the way here. I'm probably gonna be late as crap to work, but what can you do? Anyways, I'm going to lift the tank and yank the battery and hopefully temporarily put it together enough so that it can sit there for half an hour without being screwed with. AutoZone said they carry motorcycle batteries but I need to bring them mine so that they can get the model number or something else from it to make sure the new one matches. I would rather just get a new battery than trickle charge this one and then be more vigilant about not leaving my key in. I totally need some retard-proof relay that cuts bike power after being "on" without the engine running for more than 10 minutes, somebody build me one! :tard:

 

[sxty8goats]

Last edited by Extremity; Today at 04:20 PM. Reason: adding stuff!

That might be the problem right there...

 

[sxty8goats]

Well... crap. What's the best way to find out what those two wires are, then? Like I said they look cleanly cut and afaik they've been cut since I got the bike, I mean I know *I* didn't cut them.

I'm not sure. I looked at the service manual briefly to try and figure out the wiring of the flashers/running lights and didn't' find it to be all that helpful. There was a wire / electrical schematic but I was too lazy to study it or maybe it was as bad as I perceived it to be at the time. With my old CB750 I used the Helms manual to look up the wire runs/ colors and that was a breeze. Search the site to see if someone has posted a good schematic for the FZ6. 2004-2006 should be the same.

 

[Extremity]

Thanks for the help, guys! I had to drop $90 on a new battery but it's running and starts way better than before. I was still on the original battery which was probably the issue. I had a check engine light for a bit after changing, but I think it was just from the old codes and it's gone now. Thanks for all the help, now to rewire my pod lights...

Also, the battery was stupid hard to find. I had to go to the powersports place I bought the bike from, and they only had one left. Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts had motorcycle batteries, but apparently the one that fits the Fz6 is hard to find? They had one that looked identical but was too thick. Anyways, all is well now!

 

[paulinus]

Do you still have the old batt? I was hoping you'd take a video of the flames

I'm glad to hear all is working well again.

 

[abraxas]

Quite a story, glad you came right!!

A few things i thought:
1. The charging system doesn't charge properly until 5000rpm, and brights etc will drain the battery under that
2. those wires i would guess to be the number plate light ... ie you should get 12 volts on ignition.

 

[Extremity]

Do you still have the old batt? I was hoping you'd take a video of the flames

I'm glad to hear all is working well again.

Haha, yeah, I still have it. Maybe I can mail it to you so you can get flames on your own time :rockon:

Quite a story, glad you came right!!

A few things i thought:
1. The charging system doesn't charge properly until 5000rpm, and brights etc will drain the battery under that
2. those wires i would guess to be the number plate light ... ie you should get 12 volts on ignition.

That's actually a perfect explanation! My plate is actually just zip-tied under the exhaust (and is still perfectly visable) with no lights, that's how it was when I bought it. That's actually really convenient and I can use those wires when I re-install my pod lights! So blue is positive and the black is negative, right? I don't have a voltage tester, so is there any harm in just hooking a bulb up to see if it works? I mean the absolute worst I can imagine happening is either A) it doesn't work, B) I somehow blow a fuse, or C) I mess up my $0.50 bulb.

 

[cap'n]

Mine did something similar once when I killed the original battery by keeping rpm's too low for too long. Check engine light, chugging, no push start, etc. New battery and all was well.

 

[sxty8goats]

Glad to hear you got it sorted out.