Bike Ramp

[4 The F4llen]

I couldn't find a good sub forum for this so I decided to put it in general. I found a guy on craigslist selling a ramp that I like. I will also absolutely need one as I have to move my bike (06 fz6) 360 miles. I do have a nice pickup though (02 ram 1500).

Take a look at this and let me know what you think a fair price for something like this would be. He is asking $130.

http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/mcy/3892925869.html

Also are there any viable alternatives to a ramp like that for getting it in the back of my truck? I have seen a few people use good wooden planks to get them back there. Are they worth the money?

Let me know what you guys think

 

[The_Paragon]

360mi/ 45mpg X $3.90/gallon = $31.20

RIDE IT!

 

[4 The F4llen]

Unfortunately I am moving. I have to take all my stuff with me including some furniture. Riding it is not an option

 

[lawlberg]

Looks like a pretty good ramp - but the main thing you should do is....


Watch YouTube videos of people trying to get a bike into the back of a truck.


That'll show you everything to watch out for when you're doing it.

I'd say you can use a wooden plan just fine, or two that you securely connect together. The main thing to do is have a friend and a plan. It helps to use a hill so that the ramp isn't as steep.

 

[pookamatic]

I don't have first-hand experience with purpose-built ramps. My buddy bought two long 2x12s to purchase his big S1 lightning. I don't recommend this method. They're really heavy, big, and don't do a terribly great job.

For mine - a friend of the previous owner had homemade ramps, but he also had a slanted driveway (so do I). This goes a LONG way. As stated already, search YT on what not to do. Look around your neighborhood for a good spot where you can get the tailgate as low as possible. Loading dock? Even better!

Two man minimum. 3 or 4 people is ideal. Sure, there are guys that can to it themselves, but I like to have the extra security if needed. Just talk out what you're going to do before you start.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Those ramps look to be fine.

Have your tie downs ready to hook to the bike once up in the truck. Soft ties around the lower triple and forks, then regular MC tie downs work good.

For loading, (which I do easily by myself on my trailer), if you don't have help. Keep the engine at about 3k RPM's, in 1st gear. Keep your Right hand partially/very lightly applied to the front brake, stand on the left side of the bike. Just slightly engauge the clutch (just enough to get up the ramp) and walk adjacent to the bike while it powers itself up the ramp.

Sounds difficult but really isn't after some practice. Never dropped a bike and used it on my old FJR and Goldwing.

A tip for removing from the truck, leave the bike turned OFF. Put it in first gear. Start to roll the bike backwards BUT, use the clutch lever/engine to adjust the rear wheel speed (so the front doesn't zip off to one side)...


As noted above a culvert or loading ramp is a BIG help and helps keep you from bottoming out the bike as it crosses the high part of the tail gate. MAKE SURE that ramp will NOT MOVE from the gate of the truck..

 

[pookamatic]

That's good info Scott on the clutch letting it down. And I agree that if you're going onto a low trailer, it can be done solo with the method you detailed. However, into a pickup, I recommend using only a couple friends and people power.

Taller pickup beds will put the controls out of comfortable reach as the bike ascends. Transitioning yourself to the bed while holding the bike steady could easily get hairy. Not saying it can't be done, but to the uninitiated...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Even on the much lower trailer, the wing and FJR just barely cleared the "high spot".

Haven't had the FZ on the trailer yet..

I actually welded another tab onto the truck hitch assembly(that slips into the frame mounted hitch), HIGHER, with a BALL, to raise the front of the trailer for a straighter/flatter run. Once the bikes loaded, it gets dropped back down to the regular ball (the trailer is NOW level)


Something to consider for the OP is going to use this ramp often:

On my actual ramp (same size as the rails), I welded two, HD 90 degree bent 1/4" bolts to the outer ends of the ramp. I then drilled two holes (slightly larger than 1/4") into each rack. (Obviously, you'll have to come up with something to make it sturdy and un-moveable)..

The ramp now, simply has these two "pins" that drop onto each rack preventing the ramp from moving/falling etc. Easily drops on, easily pulls up and comes off.

You can see the ramp, securred to the trailer sideways and the TWO 90 degree bend pins on the end of the ramp. Double click on the picture for a larger image.

 

[2nd childhood]

You live near a Harbor Freight store?
Search results for: 'ramps'

 

[Red Wazp]

Get him down to 99.00 like Harbor freight has the new one. 6' is not that long for loading a bike into the truck without high centering the bike. Many a machine has tipped over this way.
Find a low place to back the truck into to minimize the chance of high centering your bike on the truck tailgate.