Pimpson
Junior Member
+1
That was my exact experience. Mine changes whether I have the db killers in or out of the exhaust as well. Pretty annoying.
Build your own Manometer for Throttle Body Sync!
- Thread starter FIZZER6
- Start date
+1
That was my exact experience. Mine changes whether I have the db killers in or out of the exhaust as well. Pretty annoying.
05yamahafz6
Junior Member
i'll have to give that a try with ajusting the idle first. when i synced it a year a go when i first bought the bike i got the sync messed up to the point where the idle screw wouldn't do anything, so i had to play around to get it to sync.
Now that i have the two brothers exhaust, i get alot of burbling, gurgling, and popping from about 2000-5000 rpms at stead and partial throttle most noticably in the lower gears, so a think a fresh sync would really help the issue as everything else maintanance wise is brand new.
Now that i have the two brothers exhaust, i get alot of burbling, gurgling, and popping from about 2000-5000 rpms at stead and partial throttle most noticably in the lower gears, so a think a fresh sync would really help the issue as everything else maintanance wise is brand new.
FIZZER6
The Angry Blue Mantis
Update: My bike runs so much smoother in the 6-7K rpms range that I have to look at the tachometer now to check my RPMS...I used to know when I hit the 6-7K range because I would get a lot of vibrations there...now it's linear vibrations until about 8K and then no change up to redline. :rockon:
bob808
Junior Member
Thanks, gotta try this out as well. i did notice some vibrations after 7k revs
D
Deleted member 17211
Interesting thing to note about this issue. In the service manual available here, it's cyclical. The throttle body synch section has a note to adjust idle prior to synching, and the idle adjustment section has a note to synch the throttle bodies prior to adjusting the idle. Logic told me to adjust idle first because synch will not drastically change idle but throttle opening (which idle adjustment changes) will change throttle body synch.
However, if you adjust the idle, then synch your throttle bodies, and it changes your idle (takes your 1350 to over 1400 or under 1300 indicated), adjust your idle again and check your throttle bodies. Often they will not be changed. Just remember that this is all about air and fuel mixture, so it's a matter of balance and your time is better spent enjoying the bike than worrying about a 100RPM jump/drop in your idle or a mm difference in vacuum. :rockon:
I did mine today, Thanks very much for the "How to".
It was much better than the Haynes manual.
Just a couple of things to add.
1. I am using 10w 40 oil. I tried a lighter oil but found that the heavier oil was much more stable in the tubes.
2. Don't disconnect the manometer with the engine running. I nearly ended up with throttle bodies full of oil.
3. My vacuum tubes did not have the purple markings on ( probably worn of with age). #1 and #4 tubes are longer than # 2 & # 3 on my bike.
The throttle body adjustment is so sensitive, I found it easier to look at the oil levels in the manometer to gauge the adjustment.
4. Give it a few revs between each adjustment.
My ar5e Dyno is non existent so I don't know if it runs better. I will see what the throttle response is like on my fav roundabouts. I'm hoping that the jerkiness has settled.
Initially the TB's were so off that I ended up with all of the oil in Tube #1.
I took some pictures after each adjustment.
Nelly
It was much better than the Haynes manual.
Just a couple of things to add.
1. I am using 10w 40 oil. I tried a lighter oil but found that the heavier oil was much more stable in the tubes.
2. Don't disconnect the manometer with the engine running. I nearly ended up with throttle bodies full of oil.
3. My vacuum tubes did not have the purple markings on ( probably worn of with age). #1 and #4 tubes are longer than # 2 & # 3 on my bike.
The throttle body adjustment is so sensitive, I found it easier to look at the oil levels in the manometer to gauge the adjustment.
4. Give it a few revs between each adjustment.
My ar5e Dyno is non existent so I don't know if it runs better. I will see what the throttle response is like on my fav roundabouts. I'm hoping that the jerkiness has settled.
Initially the TB's were so off that I ended up with all of the oil in Tube #1.
I took some pictures after each adjustment.
Nelly
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Spideyrex
Junior Member
I'm going to buy the part needed to build this. I have some 10w/40 already so I think I'll use that as posted above.
Quick question, are the vacuumm restrictors absolutely necessary?
I ask just in case I cant find any and some posted something about connecitng them directly.
Quick question, are the vacuumm restrictors absolutely necessary?
I ask just in case I cant find any and some posted something about connecitng them directly.
GTPAddict
Just a dude with an FZ6
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I used 1/4" clear tubing and no restrictors (also used 2 stroke oil). The vac hoses from the bike fit snuggly in to the 1/4 hose, so I didn't use adapters either. I only had the tubing and 2 - 1/4" vac tees to connect the 4 piece of 1/4" tube together
FIZZER6
The Angry Blue Mantis
The vacuum restrictors just smooth everything out a bit. You will find that this is not that precise but it doesn't have to be. It will certainly be an improvement if you have never touched the throttle bodies.
Spideyrex
Junior Member
HELP! I built this as the directions stated, but when I run the motor, the fluid jumps so much I can see anything. I then gets aerated with tiny bubbles that make the fluid disperse into the tubes. What am I doing wrong. I am using all the described parts including restrictors and 2 stroke oil (blue)
GTPAddict
Just a dude with an FZ6
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Huh, can you post a picture of your setup? What size tubing are you using? You shouldn't be getting any air in the oil unless you have a leak somewhere.
Spideyrex
Junior Member
Upon closer inspection, I think that the junction between the hoses and the f- connectors was not airtight. The hoses were on all the way but everytime I start the engine, bubbles would percolate up, making the fluid jump all over since I really could not keep a vaccuum there
So, I went and slathered the connector/hose connections with "goop", a clear adhesive sealer. It will harden and should make the whole thing sealed. I will post photos once it is dry and I test it out. Just for the record all my parts are just as described in the original directions.
So, I went and slathered the connector/hose connections with "goop", a clear adhesive sealer. It will harden and should make the whole thing sealed. I will post photos once it is dry and I test it out. Just for the record all my parts are just as described in the original directions.
Spideyrex
Junior Member
Still have problems. Here is a photo of my set up before trying to seal the connectors to show the bubbles and then a photo of the seal. BUT I still have bubbles coming from somewhere which makes it impossible to get a read.
I am lost and fed up, I think I'll just go but some ebay gauges and be done with it. My only guess is that the tubing itself (from Loews) is porous and faulty, but someone else used the same tubing and had no problems.
Argh.
I am lost and fed up, I think I'll just go but some ebay gauges and be done with it. My only guess is that the tubing itself (from Loews) is porous and faulty, but someone else used the same tubing and had no problems.
Argh.
QwickFliCk
Manly Man Member
i finally found the time to make one! DIDNT USE IT YET! one PROBLEM tho! i went to my local autozone n they only had two restrictors n i asked them to order two more n so they called up their warehouse n said theyre out of stock n cant order them! i said r u dead serious u cant order them! wow...so wat i did bought another pack of regular assorted connectors that has the 3/16 size.... i dont really know wat the difference does but
MY QUESTiOn is it OK to use two restrictors and two regular connectors???
should i go on a search to find two more restrictors..i looked online the shipping is more than the restrictors togeth..should i start calling up other stores for em or am i good to go?!
MY QUESTiOn is it OK to use two restrictors and two regular connectors???
should i go on a search to find two more restrictors..i looked online the shipping is more than the restrictors togeth..should i start calling up other stores for em or am i good to go?!
Last edited:
GTPAddict
Just a dude with an FZ6
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Where are the other 2 hoses going? It looks like all of the oil is in the 2 left hoses. Just asking here, but you do have all 4 hoses connected to the bike, right? I'd try to find out where the oil went in the 2 right hoses.
Spideyrex
Junior Member
It is a fair question. All four hoses are connected to all four throttle bodies. The fluid in that photo either got sucked into the other hoses or the bubbles turns it into a fine foam. Not so much in the photo shown, but on the many times I have tried this and try to adjust the throttle bodies, the bubbles vary but persist. Weird. When I start each time the fluid is even in all 4 hoses, then it goes to hell when I start. My engine is running fine by the way. I beginning to think that the hoses, connectors, etc I got are just junk and none of it seals right. FYI I got the hose at Lowes and the connectors at Shuck's auto parts.
FIZZER6
The Angry Blue Mantis
Still have problems. Here is a photo of my set up before trying to seal the connectors to show the bubbles and then a photo of the seal. BUT I still have bubbles coming from somewhere which makes it impossible to get a read.
I am lost and fed up, I think I'll just go but some ebay gauges and be done with it. My only guess is that the tubing itself (from Loews) is porous and faulty, but someone else used the same tubing and had no problems.
Argh.
I'm the original poster of this thread. Mine did the same thing the first time I started the engine, I had some air gaps in the fluid like that but after running it for 30 seconds the fluid settled. It will help if you get your engine up to operating temp before installing the hoses...that way it will not be running such a high rpm idle or pulling as much vacuum on the TB's. The fact that it's sucking up tube 1 much higher than the others tells me that your TB's are way off. You could try pinching the hoses on the tubes that are sucking up too far until they start to level off.
I am 90% sure that not connecting your hoses until you have ran the engine to operating temp (3 bars) will help this problem.
Spideyrex
Junior Member
Thanks for the help, but I did warm up the engine before hand. I adjusted it best I could given the bubbles and things are now more evenly balanced than the photos suggests but I think I need a professional to take a look or use a different type of manometer. Your directions and guide were very well written, that is why this is so puzzling, your design should work easily.
FIZZER6
The Angry Blue Mantis
When I did mine TB #4 pulled the fluid up about 24", full of bubbles while the others did not...so first thing I did was back down #4 and then let it idle until the fluid settled, then start adjusting from there.
QwickFliCk
Manly Man Member
NEED HELP!!
i bought all 4 restrictors..i followed all the instructions..i have an 05' fz when i adjusted the idle it would not stay at 1350 it would bounce to 1320 to 1380 and sometimes 14something
this is wat i had after adjusting the idle...its pretty good:
THEN WHILE REVVING TO 4K
shouldnt it level out? What should i do??
i bought all 4 restrictors..i followed all the instructions..i have an 05' fz when i adjusted the idle it would not stay at 1350 it would bounce to 1320 to 1380 and sometimes 14something
this is wat i had after adjusting the idle...its pretty good:
THEN WHILE REVVING TO 4K
shouldnt it level out? What should i do??
