Changing fork oil and head bearings....any tips?

[FIZZER6]

I think it's time I did some serious maintenance on the old FZ6 this winter.

On the list are a few things but 2 of which I have never messed with:

1. Replace Fork Oil

2. Replace head bearing with All Balls bearings

Anyone done these and have any advice/tips for me before I start tear down? :thumbup:

 

[Carlos840]

I have never done the head bearing, but have done the fork oil.
It is a pretty easy job if you have the tools and the manual.

Only advice i would give is to go for thicker oil, i weight 185 lbs and 10W really helped minimize diving under breaking.

Here is a complete step by step guide with pictures:

HOWTO: Forks: Seals, Bushes and Oil. in Fazer hints and tips Forum

Can't go wrong with that, just leave the damper retaining bolt and the fork seals alone.
I recommend buying a little bit more fork oil than necessary (i think its 460ml ish per fork) so you can use some to to clean the gunk out.

So empty the old oil, pump the fork, empty, pump, empty until all the oil is out.
Pour a little bit in and pump the fork a few times to dislodge the crap, empty again, pump, empty, etc.

Compress the fork to the max, and fill the oil to 134mm from the top (pump a few times before measuring level), without the spring and spacer, add the spring and spacer, put everything back together.

Should take a couple hours on your own.

Just in case, here is the order in which to undo things:

Top fork clamps, fork caps, axle pinch bolt, axle, remove front wheel, lower fork clamp, remove forks and service.

Redo things:

Put forks back, tighten lower fork clamps, tighten fork caps to spec, tighten higher fork caps, undo lower fork caps.Put wheel back in, tighten wheel axle. Bounce forks up and down to align things, tighten lower fork clamps, tighten pinch bolt.

You will have to remove the front fender and calipers, and a bungee with hooks on both sides is great for holding the calipers out of the way.

 

[Koozi]

I did a sorta-step-by-step on the steering bearings HERE

That was a long time ago! LOL

 

[FinalImpact]

Best advice on bearings:
Your pretty skilled and I don't see you having an issue, however - given the same scenario use an air powered die grinder with a cut off disc to slice the lower inner race from the stem. Using a 3" dia disc slice diagonally into the race (you DON'T need to cut it completely into), just get into it about 3/4 of the way, then take a very sharp chisel and insert that in the grove cut; wearing safety glasses, give it couple of good smacks with a heavy hammer and the race will split from the tension of being a press fit on the stem. It will fall off once cracked. Total time about 5 min with grinder and chisel and your done.

The rest is just knocking the old races out - do so evenly. i.e. drive at 12 O'clock and 6 O'clock, then at 1 and 7, then at 2 and 8 and so on so it doesn't get c0cked.

With the same die grinder, CUT a slice clean through one of the outer races removed, its now flexible and when inverted, you can use it as a mandrel to drive in the new races. The slice keeps it from sticking in the landing with new bearing. Be sure to bottom the new races until the tone goes flat and sounds like your beating on the frame. Repeat on the other side.

Clean it all very well, use some good marine grade grease and setup tension to spec.

I always exceed preload tension initially, rotate stem a few times at increased pressure, then back it off till its got lots of play and tension to spec then. Lock it down, verify top triple install has not altered your preload and your done there!

JJD952

 

[FIZZER6]

Excellent advice all around!

Can I rest the front of the bike on the headers? I am hesitant to do this but can't see any other good way to support the bike once the forks are removed.

I never will get around to this if I wait till riding season kicks off here in about 2 months!

Also on the list are:
- check spark plug boot wires for poor connections
- coolant flush
- brake fluid flush
- clean and grease caliper pivots
- deep clean front and rear sprockets

 

[FinalImpact]

I'm sure this is apparent but I didn't mention it, you'll have to insert and clamp forks into lower triple to align upper triple.
Adjust fork leg depth after bearings are set to satisfaction.

 

[Carlos840]

Excellent advice all around!

Can I rest the front of the bike on the headers? I am hesitant to do this but can't see any other good way to support the bike once the forks are removed.

I never will get around to this if I wait till riding season kicks off here in about 2 months!

Also on the list are:
- check spark plug boot wires for poor connections
- coolant flush
- brake fluid flush
- clean and grease caliper pivots
- deep clean front and rear sprockets

I don't have a center stand so i always lift my bike on the headers using a rear paddock stand for the rear wheel, it works fine and many people do it.
Just use a piece of wood in between your jack and the headers.

If that scares you i have heard of people just using the center stand and weighting the rear of the bike to keep the front up. Personally i find that scarier than lifting on the headers.

 

[FinalImpact]

I do it all the time. Its less than 20% of the bikes weight I suspect. Be careful so you don't push her forward off the stand.

ALSO: BREAK EVERYTHING loose BEFORE turning it into a teeder totter!
Not sure if you just want to pop the bars off, but it makes it easier, if you opt not to, you can loosen the forks and drop them a bit so the wires and cables are happy.

 

[FIZZER6]

I do it all the time. Its less than 20% of the bikes weight I suspect. Be careful so you don't push her forward off the stand.

ALSO: BREAK EVERYTHING loose BEFORE turning it into a teeder totter!
Not sure if you just want to pop the bars off, but it makes it easier, if you opt not to, you can loosen the forks and drop them a bit so the wires and cables are happy.

Good info! Yea I want to break every nut and bolt that has to be loosened before taking off the front wheel!

This will be a good time for me to do a wire clean up on my HID wiring in the front fairings.

 

[FinalImpact]

Good info! Yea I want to break every nut and bolt that has to be loosened before taking off the front wheel!

This will be a good time for me to do a wire clean up on my HID wiring in the front fairings.

PS - depending on the depth of the stanchion tube into the triple, you may have to loosen the triple to get the caps of the forks loose. The caps are only 11ft/lbs but if the triple is squashing them, it can hinder removal until loosened.

 

[MattR302]

If you're going to hold the fork legs upright in a vise, hold them by the brake caliper tabs, not by the tubes, so you don't deform them.