"Clicking" felt through foot pegs

[lam.i.am]

Greetings.

I noticed a “pulse” through my foot pegs a month ago and am having a hard time figuring out what it is. Symptoms:

1) Happens only when clutch is in
2) Happens above 20 MPH
3) Feels like a “click” or a “pulse” in the pegs. At 25 MPH, it happens “about” one per second.
4) Does not happen if I am in neutral and coasting (going to confirm again after work)

Other variables
1) Had tires put on a few months ago. I cannot recall if I had the issue prior
2) Cleaned chained a few days ago. I noticed one link was pretty darn stiff.

I am going to try to work that one single link out after work but I would think the chain rotates through more than one revolution a second (could be wrong).

 

[Motogiro]

Your issue would likely be the chain but you might also consider examining your front and rear sprockets. If you've got a stiff link on the chain, chances are the "O" or "X" ring has damage and others may also be compromised.

This is of course knowing that you have proper wheel alignment and chain slack. If a shop has done your tires there a very good chance that chain slack and wheel alignment are incorrect. More so if it's a certified dealership than a Mom n Pop shop. Dealerships, more than ever are the worst place to get your bike or car serviced.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 ^^^ on the chain, its toast.....


Under load its snapping straight, no oad, stays partially curved coming off the ft sprocket..

 

[FinalImpact]

JM2C - but I find the waxes and teflon sprays can over time, cause this situation. Petroleum products do have there places..... Drench it with oil, let it make a huge mess, drench it again and chain may recover if it is due to lack of lubrication.


Dealers:
Some give you free opcorn:opcorn: other times, you get it without knowing when a friend repairs your bike!

 

[lam.i.am]

Your issue would likely be the chain but you might also consider examining your front and rear sprockets. If you've got a stiff link on the chain, chances are the "O" or "X" ring has damage and others may also be compromised.

This is of course knowing that you have proper wheel alignment and chain slack. If a shop has done your tires there a very good chance that chain slack and wheel alignment are incorrect. More so if it's a certified dealership than a Mom n Pop shop. Dealerships, more than ever are the worst place to get your bike or car serviced.

Thanks. Rear sprocket looks good but I'll check the front.

It was a Ma & Pa shop that I trust implicitly so I would think slack/alignment was done correctly. I'll double double check slack tonight though.

+1 ^^^ on the chain, its toast.....


Under load its snapping straight, no oad, stays partially curved coming off the ft sprocket..

Wouldn't tightening the chain alleviate this?

JM2C - but I find the waxes and teflon sprays can over time, cause this situation. Petroleum products do have there places..... Drench it with oil, let it make a huge mess, drench it again and chain may recover if it is due to lack of lubrication.


Dealers:
Some give you free opcorn:opcorn: other times, you get it without knowing when a friend repairs your bike!

What kind of oil? I'm guessing not chain lube?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The chain NEEDS approx 2" TOTAL up and down play (at its tightest point).

If you tighten it more than that substantially, your putting extra stress on the drive line including the engine output shaft bearing, rear hub bearing, suspension binding (with full load, extending the swingarm straight, to its tightest point, etc)

Re the oil, I believe FI was referring to soaking at least that link (really should do all) with at least 30 wt motor oil. It'd be heavy enough to soak in and possibly loosen that link. It'll be messy but may get some more miles out of the chain. (FI, please correct me if I'm wrong re the oil)

IMO, a chain binding that much, I won't chance it failing and throwing it thru an engine case/crashing from a wheel lock up. Again, IMO, its just not worth an engine..

BTW, I just replaced a top of the line DID X ring chain as the "X" rings were coming out / apart. No binding, no stretch, pulled nice and smooth. 7,000 miles on the chain(very maintained)


Question, how many miles on the chain and how often do you clean / lube it?

 

[lam.i.am]

Question, how many miles on the chain and how often do you clean / lube it?

Bought it used with 14900 on it. No idea when chain was changed...if at all. It has 16.5k on it now. I personally have cleaned it every 200 miles or so since I have had it.

I checked my slack and I am within tolerance...if anything a little tight (ruler says 1.8").

I will just get a new chain. I wish I would have known because I would have the shop do it when they did the tires.

 

[FinalImpact]

There are several spray on petroleum based lubricants to pick from. In the absence of buying something, motor oil would be better than nothing, however the point is to get LOTS of LUBE in there there ASAP! Flood it with some form of lasting product and it may recover WHILE Spraying it with topical stuff may not cut it.

As suggested; best action is replacement! That said, its pretty rare to see them come apart. Based on the fact that its new "issue" to you and you posted about it, hopefully it will be OK but error on the side of caution is best!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Bought it used with 14900 on it. No idea when chain was changed...if at all. It has 16.5k on it now. I personally have cleaned it every 200 miles or so since I have had it.

I checked my slack and I am within tolerance...if anything a little tight (ruler says 1.8").

I will just get a new chain. I wish I would have known because I would have the shop do it when they did the tires.

Just a side note. I bought my bike with approx 4,500 miles on it from my friend(his kids first bike). The chain was lubed ONCE in that time frame. I cleaned and lubed it once I got it. Even with that, I only got 12,000 total miles out of the OEM chain before it needed replacement. Reading on this forum, the OEM chain, if maintained, can get over 30,000 miles.

Chain maintainance is one thing you really can't skimp on.

 

[lam.i.am]

I took the bike out for a 30 mile ride last night and I swear I could "hear" or "feel" the slapping noise more. I'm 99% sure this was in my head because you all put that in there

I checked the chain slack and still within tolerance. I did notice that the chain was starting to get gummy again. This is less than 50 miles since I cleaned it. I might need to get to the sprocket teeth and clean those as well.

During this morning's ride into work, I didn't feel the pulsing like I did yesterday. Again, could be in my head. Could be that its colder out. Who knows.

I'm going to order the chain today. I thought about replacing the sprockets at the same time but they are in really really good shape still. Dirty, yes...but teeth look great.

 

[erburtt]

I've been going through a bit of a time with my chain, switching to a lube as opposed to a wax has helped.

Something to consider though, the sprockets will be worn with the current chain, I'm assuming they are all stock and haven't been replaced. Putting a new chain on a set of already worn in sprockets is not a good idea (ask how I know) they wear together and when you introduce a new chain they don't match up anymore. My new chain started to eat through my front sprocket (all stock till ~45,000 km or so, then a new chain). Sprockets are relatively inexpensive to change out.

All that being said, if all you had was a sticky link and that's gone after some proper lube (check every single link by hand for free-ness) then I'm going to say as long as no o-rings are compromised you still have a lot of life left in that setup.

Last note, the chains like to be on the outer end of the free play spec, try and aim for 2 inches total up/down at the tightest point. I am a cronic over cleaner and that definitely hasn't helped my chains, clean less, lube more, and leave at 2" play

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A picture of the chain (before the new maintainance) would tell alot about its past..

 

[The_Paragon]

Reading on this forum, the OEM chain, if maintained, can get over 30,000 miles.

Chain maintainance is one thing you really can't skimp on.

23,000 mi on my stock oem chain and its still lookin great. I anticipate it to last the remainder of the summer which will most likely be 8-10,000 more miles.

I use Honda PRO chain lube: Doesnt splatter too much, and seems like it must do a pretty good job of lubing the chain.

I Oil & Wipe the chain every 300-500 miles, always give it a good lube if I know im going to put on a few hundred miles by the time I get back home. I also give it a full on scrub with some purple power degreaser ever 1000 or so miles.

 

[lam.i.am]

Something to consider though, the sprockets will be worn with the current chain, I'm assuming they are all stock and haven't been replaced. Putting a new chain on a set of already worn in sprockets is not a good idea (ask how I know) they wear together and when you introduce a new chain they don't match up anymore.

All that being said, if all you had was a sticky link and that's gone after some proper lube (check every single link by hand for free-ness) then I'm going to say as long as no o-rings are compromised you still have a lot of life left in that setup.

Both great points. I've had mild success changing one and not the other but like you said, sprockets aren't terribly expensive.

I'll work on that link a little more and see if it frees up.

A picture of the chain (before the new maintainance) would tell alot about its past..

I am going out for drinks after work so I didn't ride today. I'll take a shot when I get home and post.

Chain has surface rust so I'm guessing its the original chain plus the original owner didn't take super good care of it.

 

[Andz]

I guess I was lucky, I got 50,000km + on the OEM chain with lubrication when I gave it some thought and tensioning even less. I eventually tossed the chain and sprockets after the chain started binding although the sprockets looked perfect, no hooking or uneven wear at all.


Sent from my iPhone 5S using Tapatalk

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think the OEM chain seems to be a very, very good chain from the postings here.

This DID chain I just put on was replaced by DID.

Next chain I have to buy, will be an OEM..

 

[FinalImpact]

I guess I was lucky, I got 50,000km + on the OEM chain with lubrication when I gave it some thought and tensioning even less. I eventually tossed the chain and sprockets after the chain started binding although the sprockets looked perfect, no hooking or uneven wear at all.


Sent from my iPhone 5S using Tapatalk

^^ So ~ 31,000 miles.... Not bad!

I'm finally installing new tire today and rear sprocket has 22,2xx miles (35727km) on OEM hardware. It looks pretty fair, but there may be some oval shape (elongation there)....

I think I've only retensioned the chain twice. Once when I got it in 2011 and again just a month ago it was beyond 2.00".

View attachment 56736

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

23,000 mi on my stock oem chain and its still lookin great. I anticipate it to last the remainder of the summer which will most likely be 8-10,000 more miles.

I use Honda PRO chain lube: Doesnt splatter too much, and seems like it must do a pretty good job of lubing the chain.

I've used the Honda Pro lube before (blue and white can, 13oz). I found it to fling off a bit much for me but did seem to last longer.

Anyway, I just ordered two 15oz can's (different label but says pretty much the same).. I don't want to be going thru chains every 7,000 miles...

Just have to keep after rear wheel slop a bit more often if its the same mix..:thumbup:

 

[The_Paragon]

I've used the Honda Pro lube before (blue and white can, 13oz). I found it to fling off a bit much for me but did seem to last longer.
mix..:thumbup:

This is what I use, I usually give the chain a quick wipe to get the excess off and I dont end up with too much fling.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I ordered the Honda stuff;

Pro Honda Chain Lube with White Graphite 15 Oz | eBay from your recommendation.

However this product has "White Graphite". Looking at your can, that one apparently has a different additive.

This is what I have coming;