Clutch not disengaging

[warthogcrewchief]

I recently got my '05 FZ6 engine running. As I started doing preliminary checks, I found the clutch wasn't disengaging. I adjusted the cable as far as it would go and still no disengagement.

So, I pulled the clutch apart and found that there was heat damage to all of the metal plates.

Today, I got my clutch kit and changed out the friction plates, metal plates, and pressure plate springs.

I reassembled the clutch, ensuring the slave lever dot matches the arrow on the clutch cover. The clutch slave lever spring doesn't want to return the lever to starting position, and when the slave lever is fully depressed, the clutch still does not disengage.

I'm testing the disengagement of the clutch by attempting to spin the rear wheel, while in gear, with the clutch depressed.

I'm at a loss as to what it could be. Even if the cable is stretched out, the clutch should disengage when the slave lever is fully depressed.

Any ideas?

EDIT:

I pulled the clutch apart again, checked over everything, and it all seemed to be in place. The point that seemed to be causing the problem was the "push rod" even though it is in good shape. So I put everything back together and pulled the slave lever. I installed the slave lever in the position that pulled out the excess slack in the push rod and still lined up with the witness marks.

After adjusting the cable a few times, it's running good now. It seems to shift hard (loud) almost like my Harley. I don't have a reference point as this is the first time I've been able to ride this bike (it's been down since I got for a major oil leak, that I repaired this past week).

Do the FZ-6's shift hard or loud?

 

[FinalImpact]

Quick question, did you soak the fiber discs in engine oil before installing them? 8hrs is a good starting point. Also its good to check and/or replace that bearing which pulls the basket. This can fail.

The dry assembly of the discs can make the clutch chatter and may lead to them burning. Sadly once they glaze over they no longer soak up oil as quickly and may need replaced.

If its all good now, the box does clunk from N into 1st and with a mismatch RPM wise, can clunk into 2nd also.

They like the clutch cable lubed every couple of months too so the clutch pulls easily also. One last thing, there is an adustment under the fuel tank for total cable length. If you ran out, you may look there to better center it where you need it.

Everything else go back together OK?
Let us know how it goes. Be safe!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I reassembled the clutch, ensuring the slave lever dot matches the arrow on the clutch cover. The clutch slave lever spring doesn't want to return the lever to starting position, and when the slave lever is fully depressed, the clutch still does not disengage.

Do the FZ-6's shift hard or loud?

First off, I take it you DID NOT remove the slave arm from the splined shaft correct?

If your sliding the cover on with the marks lined up, WRONG, it'll now be off (misaligned at least a tooth) internally. That being off one tooth throws the angle of the slave lever off and you won't get enough cable tension. (page 5-52 S2 Yamaha manual)

When re-assembling, you may have had that off one tooth.

We also had a member that the BEARING located in the pressure plate wore out and wouldn't allow FULL disengagement due to excess slop (when the clutch lever is pulled). Kinda rare but does happen..

First gear is known to clunk a bit. A high set idle makes it worse as does shifting into first gear right away. I pull the clutch in for several seconds, then shift into first.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Added info, there is a mid cable adjuster for the clutch cable as the clutch cable stretches over time.

Kinda a PIA to get to, port side, but you'll pick up easily another 1/2" of cable adjustment.

*Make sure that cable is well lubed, that will help with shifting.

 

[warthogcrewchief]

Thanks for the info. When I had it apart, I looked at the bearings carefully. They were in good shape with no play.

As part of my troubleshooting, I lubed the cable up. The previous owners did not take care of the bike, so I'm playing catch-up with ALL the maintenance of 45K miles.

I did soak the new plates, but only for the suggested two hours. (After I fixed the problem) I was riding the bike and notice the shifting is getting smoother, as the clutch is breaking in.

What I did, the second time, was remove the slave lever and installed the clutch cover. I then installed the lever with the extra slack out and lined up per markings. Removing the slave lever makes the job so much easier.

I readjusted the clutch cable at the mid point, which is a pain (removal of tank and air box!). When I have to get in there again, I'm going to re-route the cable so that I can have easier access to the main cable adjuster.

There were some mis-matched shifts, which I expected some clunking. It was the clunks during the shifts at the right RPM/Speed that had me worried. Although, the clutch is working great now, and as I mentioned before, the shifting is getting quieter and smoother. It still occasionally clunks when going into first. I'll try letting it sit for a minute. I'll also double check the idle RPM and adjust accordingly.


The only problem I have now is keeping her at or below the speed limit. She wants to run fast (It's been 10 years since I last rode a "sport bike").


Since I don't have fairings for the bike yet, I'll be doing some mods before I get them. Next on the list, light pod mod and a BD43 mod.

For the BD43 mod, I'll just hit up the junk yard and pull some wiring from a damaged FZ6 and splice it into a better quality H4 plug.

I want to also convert to a dual high beam too, but am weary of maxing the generator's capacity.

I found the light pod mod sockets on amazon: Amazon.com: Yamaha 5PW843120000 Socket Holder: Automotive

Amazon also has the LED T10 bulbs: Amazon.com: JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright 5730 SMD 194 168 2825 W5W T10 LED Bulbs,Amber Yellow(Brightest T10 Bulb in the market): Automotive

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What I did, the second time, was remove the slave lever and installed the clutch cover. I then installed the lever with the extra slack out and lined up per markings.

I readjusted the clutch cable at the mid point, which is a pain (removal of tank and air box!). When I have to get in there again, I'm going to re-route the cable so that I can have easier access to the main cable adjuster.

For the BD43 mod, I'll just hit up the junk yard and pull some wiring from a damaged FZ6 and splice it into a better quality H4 plug.

I want to also convert to a dual high beam too, but am weary of maxing the generator's capacity.

With popping the slave lever off, it apparently did move a tooth and you got it corrected the second time, :thumbup:

As for access for the mid point adjuster, I simply cut off the zip tie that holds it to the left side of the inner frame. Once the cable is disconnected at both ends, simply slide it down and adjust away. Then slide back. No tank lifting, air box removal, MUCH EASIER and the cable isn't going anywhere. Mines been that way at least 4 years..

Re the BD43 mod. His mod plugs into the factory harness. If you know where that plug is(under the battery as I re-call), that's the key. **As you change from LB to HB it turns off the other element.

W/O this happening, you'll be burning up the modded headlight bulb REAL quick, plus the extra draw off the battery.

You use the same headlight socket and simply plug into the other socket, no different plugs are needed. Under the battery, the lighting harness plug is very small. Someones posted where to buy them but you'll be buying several. Of course the bike has to be apart to see what you need, then order the plug, etc, etc..

IMO, get his kit. Its not that expensive, very good directions, looks factory, extremly well made and he was the one to figure out HOW it would work correctly.

As for the dual HB, not sure how you'd do that W/O running into the same issue posted above. And yes, you'll be pushing the charging system.

The bike will run better the more you run it. Lube and adjust correctly (2" utotal up and down) the drive chain too. It will shift easier as well nice and lubed.

Have fun!:thumbup: