Healthy idle, no power

[RasaCarta]

I rode my 2006 FZ6 about 30 minutes to the office today. While parking, I tapped down on the shifter a bunch of times until I didn’t feel it click anymore, attempted to creep forward into my parking spot a bit more… Nothing. Tried shifting up to second, letting out the clutch and feathering the throttle… RPMs went up, but the bike didn’t budge.

It *feels* (and sounds) like it’s shifting between gears but I have zero power to the rear wheel. Need some troubleshooting help - new-ish to bike mechanics.

I did notice several times recently when attempting to go into neutral or second, it felt as if the gears were grinding and the shift lever kicked back, requiring me to use a bit more force and shift quicker.

 

[Gary in NJ]

It is either a significantly (and impressively) worn clutch pack, or a stuck clutch actuator. Does the clutch lever pull feel normal? Do you see the lever down by the clutch pack moving its full range? Was the clutch slipping prior to this event?

I wonder if a single broken clutch spring would have this effect…seems unlikely

 

[RasaCarta]

It is either a significantly (and impressively) worn clutch pack, or a stuck clutch actuator. Does the clutch lever pull feel normal? Do you see the lever down by the clutch pack moving its full range? Was the clutch slipping prior to this event?

I wonder if a single broken clutch spring would have this effect…seems unlikely

There may have been some minimal slippage for a day or two prior to complete failure. I consulted a mechanic near where my bike broke down, he did mention that a failed clutch spring could potentially cause these symptoms...
The clutch lever feels pretty normal. I checked the lever at the engine end, it seems to be moving normally, but then I never paid attention to it before it broke.

What do I look for in the actuator? That sounds like the easier troubleshoot and more likely culprit.

 

[RasaCarta]

Update: the bike is behaving like it is stuck in neutral or the clutch is stuck engaged as well.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Clutch pulled in
Clutch out

 

[RasaCarta]

I'm not certain about range of motion but the actuator is certainly moving. Looks to be about the same.

 

[Gary in NJ]

There may have been some minimal slippage for a day or two prior to complete failure.

Well that is reason enough to remove the cover and inspect the clutch pack. You will likely need a clutch kit.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Check your engine chain sprocket, that the nut is still there and tight.

.

 

[RasaCarta]

Check your engine chain sprocket, that the nut is still there and tight.

.

That's it. Straight up gone. I had noticed during my troubleshooting last night the cover over the front sprocket was loose, so that was going to be checked eventually... But it probably would have been one of the last things I checked. Thank you.
While I have you - could you give me any extra info about the Speedohealer?

 

[trepetti]

That's it. Straight up gone. I had noticed during my troubleshooting last night the cover over the front sprocket was loose, so that was going to be checked eventually... But it probably would have been one of the last things I checked. Thank you.
While I have you - could you give me any extra info about the Speedohealer?

Oh BOY!!!!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The Speedohealer is literally a Plug n Play unit.

I re-call the hook ups are under the battery tray.

I adjusted my unit to match my GPS. I have mine within .1 MPH between the GPS and Speedohealer.

There's also an additional plug that if plugged in (comes with it), it records your highest speed till it's cleared or the battery disconnected...

 

[Gary in NJ]

Be sure to check your output shaft for signs of damage/wear. If that has been spinning freely on the edge of the sprocket there may be some impact damage.

 

[RasaCarta]

Be sure to check your output shaft for signs of damage/wear. If that has been spinning freely on the edge of the sprocket there may be some impact damage.

The threads are a little stripped where the sprocket spun around them, but they may be alright. I won't know until the new nut gets here. I do have a lower-mileage parts bike, but if I can avoid it I'd rather not tear down the entire powertrain just to salvage a flippen' output shaft out of it. If I do that, I may as well swap the whole gearbox internals out.... (May have to anyway.)

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Some gentle chamfering to the shaft should help.

Perhaps, shift into gear to keep it from spinning and GENTLY taper the shaft with a file or grinder..

 

[RasaCarta]

Some gentle chamfering to the shaft should help.

Perhaps, shift into gear to keep it from spinning and GENTLY taper the shaft with a file or grinder..

Is that going to allow the new nut to re-cut the output shaft threads?

 

[Motogiro]

Is that going to allow the new nut to re-cut the output shaft threads?

No, you don't want the nut to cut any new threads. The chamfer is to create an angle at the end of the shaft so that the thread's major diameter is reduced the help the nut regain it's normal thread path onto the shaft. The nut should rotate easily onto the shaft with no binding. You don't want a cross threading which would likely weaken the torque ability of the nut on the sprocket.
If there is no thread present on the shaft you need other solutions to repair this.

 

[RasaCarta]

No, you don't want the nut to cut any new threads. The chamfer is to create an angle at the end of the shaft so that the thread's major diameter is reduced the help the nut regain it's normal thread path onto the shaft. The nut should rotate easily onto the shaft with no binding. You don't want a cross threading which would likely weaken the torque ability of the nut on the sprocket.
If there is no thread present on the shaft you need other solutions to repair this.

As mentioned, I have a parts bike but I would prefer to avoid tearing down two gearboxes to replace the output shaft if I can avoid it. Having said that.. Worst case scenario in an attempted repair and subsequent failure, I end up having to to flatbed the bike home again and do that full gearbox rebuild anyway.

Seems like the chamfer method is worth a shot if nothing else. This time I will certainly be using threadlocker and proper torque, unlike whoever worked on this thing last…

 

[Senior]

There is supposed to be a lock washer that has two edges to bend up to hold the nut in place once torqued to 65 ft lb

 

[RasaCarta]

There is supposed to be a lock washer that has two edges to bend up to hold the nut in place once torqued to 65 ft lb

Didn't catch that when I ordered a new one, unfortunately. I'll just use blue threadlock and double-check torque after two weeks of riding. If it's loosened at all, I'll see about tracking down the lock washer.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Use RED Loctite, at least..

There have been times when an engine block was destroyed when a chain came off documented here.
I wouldn't cut corners, you got lucky this time.

My S2 uses a slightly different (updated) type of nut, which I change ANYTIME the sprocket is removed.
I also RED Loctite it as well...

.