ErikNYC
Junior Member
Same here!
Clutch Slave Levers - I'm making them again
- Thread starter killernoodle
- Start date
Same here!
SocialOne
Junior Member
Good idea. I would like to buy the parts from Yamaha and send them to be modified so I can keep riding.
SocialOne
Junior Member
OK, I don't know if this thread went elsewhere but I got tired of waiting and got a friend who has a welder to add 10mm to the slave clutch lever. It's rough and ready (I did the grinding) and we just sprayed it with black paint but it works a treat.
The other thing I did is to replace the throttle tube with one from a Honda F4i. This has a smaller circumference so that the throttle is slower (the same amount of turn pulls less cable).
These two mods have made the bike much more pleasurable to ride. I didn't realize how much effort I was putting into just managing smooth clutch and throttle control (I think someone else on the forum has made is comment too).
Unlike the G2 Ergonomics throttle tube, which I gather has a cam that modifies the throttle pull only at the beginning, the F4i tube works right across the throttle range. It is now much easier to feed in power progressively at any throttle opening. Very nice, for instance, in the middle of a corner at any revs.
It's not perfect. It's a bit rattly on the bar and I've reached the limit of adjustment on the cable at the top, though I gather there is adjustment at the bottom end. I would appreciate advice on this. Nevertheless it is a cheap mod that makes a big improvement in bike control. The F4i tube is less than $20.
However. It does not fix the throttle sudden on/off characteristc which I gather can only be fixed by remapping the fuel injection.
The other thing I did is to replace the throttle tube with one from a Honda F4i. This has a smaller circumference so that the throttle is slower (the same amount of turn pulls less cable).
These two mods have made the bike much more pleasurable to ride. I didn't realize how much effort I was putting into just managing smooth clutch and throttle control (I think someone else on the forum has made is comment too).
Unlike the G2 Ergonomics throttle tube, which I gather has a cam that modifies the throttle pull only at the beginning, the F4i tube works right across the throttle range. It is now much easier to feed in power progressively at any throttle opening. Very nice, for instance, in the middle of a corner at any revs.
It's not perfect. It's a bit rattly on the bar and I've reached the limit of adjustment on the cable at the top, though I gather there is adjustment at the bottom end. I would appreciate advice on this. Nevertheless it is a cheap mod that makes a big improvement in bike control. The F4i tube is less than $20.
However. It does not fix the throttle sudden on/off characteristc which I gather can only be fixed by remapping the fuel injection.
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Did you just get another piece of steel, (same thickness) and weld it over the existing arm (an make the hole 10mm's from the stock hole?)
SocialOne
Junior Member
I cut the lever in two and welded in a piece of steel the same thickness and ground to the same width as the lever. It was about 13 mm in length to allow for the width of the cut. The excess weld was then ground down to smooth the appearance. I left extra thickness of weld on the bottom of the lever for strength.
If I were to do it again I'd add 15 mm to the length of the lever for a longer clutch friction zone. In fact I'd do it properly like killernoodle's later mod and put in multiple holes and experiment.
I haven't done it yet but I'll do the same for the cable holder bracket. Rather than weld on another split tube I'll cut the bracket in two then weld in a bit of steel and angle the existing tube back and up a bit - that is, aim it the end of the lever which is now both further back and higher. Actually it may not need extra steel to extend it - you can probably just fill the gap with weld.
If I were to do it again I'd add 15 mm to the length of the lever for a longer clutch friction zone. In fact I'd do it properly like killernoodle's later mod and put in multiple holes and experiment.
I haven't done it yet but I'll do the same for the cable holder bracket. Rather than weld on another split tube I'll cut the bracket in two then weld in a bit of steel and angle the existing tube back and up a bit - that is, aim it the end of the lever which is now both further back and higher. Actually it may not need extra steel to extend it - you can probably just fill the gap with weld.
SocialOne
Junior Member
Now that I think about it yours is probably a better solution. You can drill multiple holes in the extension and then weld it on. Though I'd weld it to the bottom of the lever.
CADMAN
Member
Been away for a bit and just read the last 3 pages to get caught up. Already have parts in hand and would like to get in on KN's next run or anyone that takes it over.
Met a guy that had this mod and would love to have it for my 07. I think the exchange process would be best and would possibly do a second set of parts just to keep the flow of production going.
Met a guy that had this mod and would love to have it for my 07. I think the exchange process would be best and would possibly do a second set of parts just to keep the flow of production going.
crazy dave
Junior Member
I have parts in hand also if there will be another run
BlackAndBlue
Junior Member
i'm definitely interested in a run. the stiff clutch has been just about my only complaint since i got this bike. is the core lever available from a parts supplier? unless this is a winter time run i don't want to have the bike down for too long.
ChanceCoats123
Junior Member
Before you buy, try lubing the clutch cable with engine oil. The clutch pull can be hard on our bike, but it's nothing that isn't manageable when lubed up. And besides, it's technically much faster to shift (when using the clutch) if you don't have the slave lever. :rockon:
BlackAndBlue
Junior Member
What do you mean? Use the clutch, but without the slave lever?
The p.o. said he kept the cable lubed. I'll have to see how it's done and give it a try. How do you direct oil down the cable?
The p.o. said he kept the cable lubed. I'll have to see how it's done and give it a try. How do you direct oil down the cable?
ChanceCoats123
Junior Member
I meant that the stock clutch setup will be faster than a setup with the modified slave lever. The modified one increases the "friction zone" which is good if you want to work the clutch for city diving, or if you want an easier pull, but the increased size of the friction zone means that the clutch slips a bit more when you're trying to get on the throttle. That said, it's not THAT big of a difference in performance.
As for lubing the clutch cable, plastic syringes work well. If you turn the bars so that the oil naturally drips down the cable, it practically does the work for you. I oiled mine today and the difference is night and day.
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Exactly!^^^
A freshly lubed cable will pull much easier and faster shifts can be had as the lever doesn't have to be pulled in so far...
HaChayalBoded
Junior Member
Any idea on another run? My bike has sat for a few months and the clutch is rock hard. I might have to pull it apart and lube every section separately. But it's got like a 50lb pull force now. It's always been bad, but now it's very bad.
skifdank
New Member
Also interested in one.
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+100^^^^
I just lubed mine yesterday(and I do it at least every two months), Bunch of nasty came out. Much easier to pull..
IMO, once your used to the engagement zone, I prefer it. You can shift faster with the shorter pull...
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If you cut off the left side (inside the frame) zip tie/retainer, you can pull the cable WITHOUT yanking the fuel tank, air box, etc (even replace it)
Mines been cut off for at least 3 years and that cable isn't going anywhere. (I suspect that retainer was put there for initial assembly from Yamaha)
No retainer makes FULL cable cleaning MUCH EASIER. If my pull is 10 lbs, its a lot...
BTW, I go back and forth between actual cable lube and 20 wt engine oil. I haven't quite decided which I prefer, lasts longer, etc..
And lastly, whatever lube you use, I fold up and KEEP a folded up paper towel UNDER the lowest part of the cable where excess lube runs out. If not, you'll be chasing an oil leak that you don't actually have!! Don't ask because that's exactly what happened to me initially...
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killernoodle
Making stuff
Just a feeler here, is anyone still interested in these? I have some free time and a new shop.
2007Fizzer
Senior rider
Boy, that's GOOD NEWS for a lot of riders that couldn't get these "easy clutch parts" for the last year or two. I've had mine about 3 years and it's been just GREAT! You can adjust it for a short throw with high pull effort, or a long throw with modest pull - totally at your option, and with a minimum of effort. Highly recommend Killernoodle's parts - his workmanship is excellent.
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Do you have any already made up? (I want to keep my old parts) and dibs if you do!
