Crank but no Fuel Pump Prime

[CltFZ6]

Have you checked continuity on the handlebar Kill Switch?

I had a fault with mine that I fixed by stripping down the switch and cleaning the contacts, after which it was fine.

I have to replace the handlebar and grips, so I will do that today and see if it is the issue. I also noticed other people have had similar issues where the fuel pump relay was going bad. When I pulled mine, there was some physical damage on the exterior, but pins looked clean. However when testing the relay again using a fresh battery it was failed. A replacement has been ordered and will be here tomorrow.

 

[Motogiro]

I have to replace the handlebar and grips, so I will do that today and see if it is the issue. I also noticed other people have had similar issues where the fuel pump relay was going bad. When I pulled mine, there was some physical damage on the exterior, but pins looked clean. However when testing the relay again using a fresh battery it was failed. A replacement has been ordered and will be here tomorrow.

The fuel pump relay provides current to the fuel pump and fuel injectors as long as safety protocols are met. How are you testing the fuel pump relay? If you see your 12 vdc at the red with blue tracer wire at the bottom of the pump the relay is providing current.
Also the fuel pump may not prime every time you cycle the the power to on because there is an internal pressure regulator with in the pump. If the pump is at pressure and no fuel is used it may not cycle.
It might be time for a fuel pressure test and maybe a look to see if the injectors are spraying.

 

[CltFZ6]

Have you checked continuity on the handlebar Kill Switch?

I had a fault with mine that I fixed by stripping down the switch and cleaning the contacts, after which it was fine.

I will go ahead and try that!

The fuel pump relay provides current to the fuel pump and fuel injectors as long as safety protocols are met. How are you testing the fuel pump relay? If you see your 12 vdc at the red with blue tracer wire at the bottom of the pump the relay is providing current.

The fuel pump relay provides current to the fuel pump and fuel injectors as long as safety protocols are met. How are you testing the fuel pump relay? If you see your 12 vdc at the red with blue tracer wire at the bottom of the pump the relay is providing current.
Also the fuel pump may not prime every time you cycle the the power to on because the is and internal pressure regulator with in the pump. If the pump is at pressure and no fuel is used it may not cycle.
It might be time for a fuel pressure test and maybe a look to see if the injectors are spraying.

Here is how I’ve tested the relay. The reading fluctuated from 0 to 3 volts max and would go back to 0 until I took off the probes and retouched off. This reading matches the fact I am not getting 12 volt reading in diagnostic mode: code D09: 0.0
I’m not seasoned with electrical testing so if this is not correct or you have any advice please let me know! Injectors are spraying too

 

[CltFZ6]

I will go ahead and try that!



Here is how I’ve tested the relay. The reading fluctuated from 0 to 3 volts max and would go back to 0 until I took off the probes and retouched off. This reading matches the fact I am not getting 12 volt reading in diagnostic mode: code D09: 0.0
I’m not seasoned with electrical testing so if this is not correct or you have any advice please let me know!

 

[CltFZ6]

+1. I had this exact same issue on my 05 many years ago. As Scot says, this is a well known issue on the FZ6

I have cleaned the contacts in the kill switch, they were a little gummed up/dirty but not much. Not the issue. Also cleaned the starter relay and plug connections. No problem there either. Change all fuses again, none were blown.

 

[Motogiro]

I will go ahead and try that!



Here is how I’ve tested the relay. The reading fluctuated from 0 to 3 volts max and would go back to 0 until I took off the probes and retouched off. This reading matches the fact I am not getting 12 volt reading in diagnostic mode: code D09: 0.0
I’m not seasoned with electrical testing so if this is not correct or you have any advice please let me know! Injectors are spraying too

If you put your meter on DC volts put the negative lead of you meter at ground (negative battery terminal). Your positive meter lead on pin 4 which will be the red with blue tracer, Turn the key to on position, kill switch in the run position. Bike in neutral (you should see the neutral light on your instrument cluster) do you see 12 vdc at the red with blue tracer wire? When I say 12 vdc, that is a nominal number and you might see what ever your battery voltage is.
If you see the 12 vdc and you hear the pump prime you need to check to see if the injectors are spraying. You will only see them spray while you're cranking the engine.You can also check your fuel pump pressure. At this point I would also pull the plugs which might tell a story.
You could have clogged injectors or a bad fuel pump if you are seeing 12 vdc at the red with blue tracer wire.
The test you've done is showing 0 vdc to 3ish vdc. When the relay is closed the reading is 0 vdc when the relay is open it reading voltage through the path of the fuel pump motor to ground. So your seeing a voltage drop. When the relay is 0 vdc it's showing the relay contacts are closed. That's good but if you see the voltage go higher that not good. To test from that positive terminal to ground will tell us more.

 

[CltFZ6]

If you put your meter on DC volts put the negative lead of you meter at ground (negative battery terminal). Your positive meter lead on pin 4 which will be the red with blue tracer, Turn the key to on position, kill switch in the run position. Bike in neutral (you should see the neutral light on your instrument cluster) do you see 12 vdc at the red with blue tracer wire? When I say 12 vdc, that is a nominal number and you might see what ever your battery voltage is.
If you see the 12 vdc and you hear the pump prime you need to check to see if the injectors are spraying. You will only see them spray while you're cranking the engine.You can also check your fuel pump pressure. At this point I would also pull the plugs which might tell a story.
You could have clogged injectors or a bad fuel pump if you are seeing 12 vdc at the red with blue tracer wire.
The test you've done is showing 0 vdc to 3ish vdc. When the relay is closed the reading is 0 vdc when the relay is open it reading voltage through the path of the fuel pump motor to ground. So your seeing a voltage drop. When the relay is 0 vdc it's showing the relay contacts are closed. That's good but if you see the voltage go higher that not good. To test from that positive terminal to ground will tell us more.

Okay thank you for the guidance. I will do that first thing when I wake. It’s just so frustrating, previous owner laid it down low speed, rode it home then had trouble starting it two days later but it did run ( so my logic is saying something got damaged from the physical force of him laying it down. But he let it sit for 3 months after, and outside as I’ve found out. AND without an air filter!!! I’m just smacking my head against a wall at this point…

 

[CltFZ6]

If you put your meter on DC volts put the negative lead of you meter at ground (negative battery terminal). Your positive meter lead on pin 4 which will be the red with blue tracer, Turn the key to on position, kill switch in the run position. Bike in neutral (you should see the neutral light on your instrument cluster) do you see 12 vdc at the red with blue tracer wire? When I say 12 vdc, that is a nominal number and you might see what ever your battery voltage is.
If you see the 12 vdc and you hear the pump prime you need to check to see if the injectors are spraying. You will only see them spray while you're cranking the engine.You can also check your fuel pump pressure. At this point I would also pull the plugs which might tell a story.
You could have clogged injectors or a bad fuel pump if you are seeing 12 vdc at the red with blue tracer wire.
The test you've done is showing 0 vdc to 3ish vdc. When the relay is closed the reading is 0 vdc when the relay is open it reading voltage through the path of the fuel pump motor to ground. So your seeing a voltage drop. When the relay is 0 vdc it's showing the relay contacts are closed. That's good but if you see the voltage go higher that not good. To test from that positive terminal to ground will tell us more.

It reads 0 vdc. Tested with negative probe on neg. Battery terminal and positive probe on red blue tracer at pin 4 of the relay.

 

[Motogiro]

Now go to pin 3 and measure against ground. What voltage do you see? You should see 12 vdc on that pin.

 

[CltFZ6]

Now go to pin 3 and measure against ground. What voltage do you see? You should see 12 vdc on that pin.

Yes I have 12.4 on pin 3 to ground

 

[Motogiro]

Now run a jumper between pin 3 and 4. You should have power to the fuel pump and fuel injector. The bike may start.
There are 2 things that might cause the fuel pump/injection relay to not pass power. One of them is the ECU not allowing the relay to operate and the other is faulty relay contacts. In addition there can be other failure points.
Have you checked the ECU plug for pin corrosion or oxidation?

 

[CltFZ6]

Now run a jumper between pin 3 and 4. You should have power to the fuel pump and fuel injector. The bike may start.
There are 2 things that might cause the fuel pump/injection relay to not pass power. One of them is the ECU not allowing the relay to operate and the other is faulty relay contacts. In addition there can be other failure points.
Have you checked the ECU plug for pin corrosion or oxidation?

Yes I have 12.4 now with the new relay. Still won’t start. Currently replacing the spark plugs so will test right after

 

[CltFZ6]

Also

Now run a jumper between pin 3 and 4. You should have power to the fuel pump and fuel injector. The bike may start.
There are 2 things that might cause the fuel pump/injection relay to not pass power. One of them is the ECU not allowing the relay to operate and the other is faulty relay contacts. In addition there can be other failure points.
Have you checked the ECU plug for pin corrosion or oxidation?

just finished the spark plugs. It is actually firing well now but doesn’t want to stay on, I hear a difference. But I believe my battery needs charged again due to trying over and over again the last couple of days. The new relay seemed to possibly fix the voltage issue but I need to go back and double check the diagnostic dashboard to see if it has shown up.

 

[CltFZ6]

You have been a great help and I feel progress has been made, but with every step forward there is a step back. I was able to get the bike to fire up with a jump pack attached to the battery. However when I got it running initially, it was running awful and kept wanting to bog down and die, even with throttle. (Throttle all the way open at times to keep it at 1500rpm). Also it smoked initially for about 5 minutes but then I checked the oil and it seems to be eating it somewhere.

Let it idle and it idled by itself @ 1500rpm for about 10 minutes without bogging down until I applied throttle.

Every-time I try to start it now it absolutely struggles to start and/or maintain a healthy idle speed.

I’m thinking my stator may be bad because the only time it idled for 10 minutes without me having to constantly apply throttle was when it was constantly hooked up to my jump pack.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Check battery voltage at the battery when it's running.
It should be close to 14 volts...

.

 

[CltFZ6]

Check battery voltage at the battery when it's running.
It should be close to 14 volts...

.

Just installed a fresh one this morning reading close to 14. Just tested the old FI next to new ones and it seems they are not spraying enough fuel. And my fuel filter has debris that was knocked loose internally from the dent in the tank.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like the pump needs cleaning or replacement..

Fuel pump failure is not un-common, especially for machines that sit awhile, etc..

Quantum has reportedly a good reputation (as posted here):

Fuel Pump - OEM Replacement, HFP-382-Y QFS

Upgrade to a QFS fuel pump! Shop HFP-382-Y now to restore OE performance backed by a lifetime warranty!

www.highflowfuel.com

 

[tuning-forks]

The pressure regulator in the pump housing assy. also causes a fair amount of problems.

 

[grcamna7]

here are some videos I have taken that may give a bit more detail.
Uploaded via YouTube shorts

Can the cap be removed from that relay? if so,you might find water inside it.

 

[CltFZ6]

Sounds like the pump needs cleaning or replacement..

Fuel pump failure is not un-common, especially for machines that sit awhile, etc..

Quantum has reportedly a good reputation (as posted here):

Fuel Pump - OEM Replacement, HFP-382-Y QFS

Upgrade to a QFS fuel pump! Shop HFP-382-Y now to restore OE performance backed by a lifetime warranty!

www.highflowfuel.com

Have one ordered as well as fresh injectors