Did i damage my engine

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Yepper, your freeing up horsepower (not nearly the friction) with roller bearing lifters vs just a" cam against flat tappet lifter" which is what the FZ employes.

I'm not terribly familiar with the different ingrediants of the oils, although I do know you don't want energy conserving oil especially in an engine with an adjoining gear box. To my knowledge, the gear box is what tends to shear the oil apart.

I know alot of the guys on the FJR forums also use diesel oil as well.

Admittedly, I am not nearly as versed as others re the ingredients so I stick to semi synthetic or full synthetic MC specific oil (for engines with the attached gear box). A waste of money, perhaps, but I know my engine is protected, no guessing (and yes, my wallet will be a bit lighter).

My next change is due in about 700 miles, I'll be trying Mobil 1 full synthetic MC specific oil.

If I'm not happy with that, I'll go back to either my Motul 5100 or try the 7100... :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Yepper, your freeing up horsepower (not nearly the friction) with roller bearing lifters vs just a" cam against flat tappet lifter" which is what the FZ employes.

I'm not terribly familiar with the different ingrediants of the oils, although I do know you don't want energy conserving oil especially in an engine with an adjoining gear box. To my knowledge, the gear box is what tends to shear the oil apart.

I know alot of the guys on the FJR forums also use diesel oil as well.

Admittedly, I am not nearly as versed as others re the ingredients so I stick to semi synthetic or full synthetic MC specific oil (for engines with the attached gear box). A waste of money, perhaps, but I know my engine is protected, no guessing (and yes, my wallet will be a bit lighter).

My next change is due in about 700 miles, I'll be trying Mobil 1 full synthetic MC specific oil.

If I'm not happy with that, I'll go back to either my Motul 5100 or try the 7100... :thumbup:

I don't want to bias your vote on the next product of choice but I will say I DUMPED that exact product as the box got crunchy and the engine vibes went through the roof by 2k - 2500 miles. Call me sensitive to change butt I could tell something wasn't right. Hold your tongue and don't go a thinking this is when I went through the spark plug cap issue as IT WASN'T. And I think you know me well enough to know I do one change at time to solve sh$t so I KNOW WHY things happened. Anyway, Amsoil was on sale and I used to hate all the SALES BALONEY about that product but I tried it and like it allot -->> Based upon reduced swelling of my @ss from reduced vibrations, its a good product! :thumbup::thumbup:

So - PLEASE Run the M1 and tell us how it feels in 3000 miles! PS - extreme pressure (gear box) and shear (Cam & Tappets) are two different factors oils are tested for. Both benefit from ZDDP but the gear box can live w/out it.

And true - roller rockers (old V8s) and roller cams reduce friction. As you stated its FREE HP!

Happy Almost New Year!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I don't want to bias your vote on the next product of choice but I will say I DUMPED that exact product as the box got crunchy and the engine vibes went through the roof by 2k - 2500 miles. Call me sensitive to change butt I could tell something wasn't right. Hold your tongue and don't go a thinking this is when I went through the spark plug cap issue as IT WASN'T. And I think you know me well enough to know I do one change at time to solve sh$t so I KNOW WHY things happened. Anyway, Amsoil was on sale and I used to hate all the SALES BALONEY about that product but I tried it and like it allot -->> Based upon reduced swelling of my @ss from reduced vibrations, its a good product! :thumbup::thumbup:

So - PLEASE Run the M1 and tell us how it feels in 3000 miles! PS - extreme pressure (gear box) and shear (Cam & Tappets) are two different factors oils are tested for. Both benefit from ZDDP but the gear box can live w/out it.

And true - roller rockers (old V8s) and roller cams reduce friction. As you stated its FREE HP!

Happy Almost New Year!

And Happy New Year to you (and all my fellow friends here on the forum!). Hope your mom is doing better too..

I bought the oil on Amazon quite awile ago already so I'm somewhat commited.

I've been running Seafoam now on a REGULAR basis (in the fuel) and with the cooler temps down here, the bike has been super smooth and is running REALLY, REALLY GOOD, especially re the vib department (thru the seat just over 4,100 RPM's), no vibs.....

With that said, I'll just be doing the oil change eventually and will post any changes good, bad or ugly. :thumbup:

I've ran Motul 5100 in my last several bikes (including the FZ) without issues and fiqured I'm down to one bike, give her a treat to full synthetic..

There's currently two quarts of 5100 and one quart Mobil One in the crankcase. The engine is nice and quiet, no tapping, ticking, etc and the oil, at least on the stick, still looks very clear.

If the Mobil One (3 quarts) affects my engine / gear box in any negative way, I wouldn't hesitate to dump it within a couple hundred miles and go back to the 5100. I have the K&P SS, cleanable oil filter/cooler so that's not an issue.

I suppose I could pick up some more 5100 and mix as I currently have (with no issues). I don't particularly want to dump $30 worth of Mobile One...

 

[regder]

OP, my bike has 70k miles running mostly on T6, you'll be fine!

 

[fb40dash5]

My next change is due in about 700 miles, I'll be trying Mobil 1 full synthetic MC specific oil.

I wonder if it's as good at spinning bearings as its automotive counterpart? :spank:

As for the gearbox, I've always heard that the issue was the friction modifiers in "Energy Conserving" oils mucking up the clutch pack friction, not a problem with pressures. Pretty sure the PO of my bike had been using car oil, and I felt a definite improvement in shifting after I switched it.

 

[FB400]

I've put 28k miles on the bike since I have owned it.
I have used 3 full synthetic oils in it changing at 4k intervals.

-Rotella T6 blue jug Full Syn
-Castrol 4t full Syn
-Mobil 1 4t full syn

There is a noticeable difference when using Rotella in that the transmisison doesn't shift down smoothly. This alone is enough to not use this oil anymore. I find Castrol 4t and Mobil 1 4t to be equally good. And since I usually can get Castrol 4t a buck or 2 cheaper per quart I use Castrol 4t more regularly than Mobil 1 4t.

And I just came upon this deal for 6 quart for $46 free shipping.
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Castrol-06412-10W-50-4-Stroke-Motorcycle/dp/B008MISF54/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1388340656&sr=8-2&keywords=castrol+4t]Castrol 06412 Power RS 10W-50 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil - 1 Quart Bottle, (Pack of 6) : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

 

[regder]

I've put 28k miles on the bike since I have owned it.
I have used 3 full synthetic oils in it changing at 4k intervals.

-Rotella T6 blue jug Full Syn
-Castrol 4t full Syn
-Mobil 1 4t full syn

There is a noticeable difference when using Rotella in that the transmisison doesn't shift down smoothly. This alone is enough to not use this oil anymore. I find Castrol 4t and Mobil 1 4t to be equally good. And since I usually can get Castrol 4t a buck or 2 cheaper per quart I use Castrol 4t more regularly than Mobil 1 4t.

And I just came upon this deal for 6 quart for $46 free shipping.
Castrol 06412 Power RS 10W-50 4-Stroke Motorcycle Oil - 1 Quart Bottle, (Pack of 6) : Amazon.com : Automotive

I have no clue why, but I've found if I fill the oil to about half way up the dip stick it shifts infinitely better than if I go to the top.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I wonder if it's as good at spinning bearings as its automotive counterpart? :spank:

As for the gearbox, I've always heard that the issue was the friction modifiers in "Energy Conserving" oils mucking up the clutch pack friction, not a problem with pressures. Pretty sure the PO of my bike had been using car oil, and I felt a definite improvement in shifting after I switched it.

The automotive oil with the additive to my knowledge, will sometimes allow your clutch to slip...

If that Mobil one spins a bearing, you'll see a 2014 FJR 1300 (red) back in the stall and an FZ6 up for parts!


BTW, my last 2005 KLR 250, like its predecessor, a 1989 KLR 250, liked wearing out left side crank bearings at every 32,000 miles. The '89 went to 64,000 miles (exactly another 32,000 miles) and the bearing starting rattling again (ate the roller cage the first time)-rebuilt it again and sold it at 73,000 miles. The 2005 bike (below), at 28,000 miles, I was replacing the cam chain and noticed slop in that bearing (also supports the rotor), even with semi synthetic oil.

The second pic shows the cam chain BEHIND the balancer chain / balancer shafts

 

[motojoe122]