Did i damage my engine

[Dresnewtoy]

I was just out in the shed tonight and I looked at the bottle of Rotella T6 5w 40 and realized it says Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil. I changed the oil in the summer and have put maybe 700 miles on the bike since. It runs fine, but have I done any internal damage using the wrong oil?



Thanks

 

[oaks]

No worries. Lots of folks here use that oil including me. Read the certifications on the back and you'll see it meets the JASO-MA requirement Yamaha calls for.

 

[tejkowskit]

That oil will do no damage. As mentioned, some people use that in their fz6. It is jaso ma so safe to use with the cat converter, too. :thumbup:

Previous thread on the topic.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/oil-threads/37921-oil-filter.html

 

[Dresnewtoy]

Thank heavens!! Not sure how I didn't read the label correctly. I would have lost the rag if I damaged my precious Fizz.

 

[greg]

biggest problem would be clutch slippage, but you seem ok so far

best advice really is that any oil is better than no oil

never heard of anybody damaging their bikes from having the wrong kind of oil

 

[Erci]

JASO-MA > no clutch slippage. That is what that designation means .. "safe for wet clutch vehicles".

I've used this oil for at least 25k miles now. No issues.

 

[FinalImpact]

JASO-MA > no clutch slippage. That is what that designation means .. "Just Ask Some Other Members Alright".

I've used this oil for at least 25k miles now. No issues.

I fixed it for you.... ^^

Of course there are other meanings too! In the cage world, reading that fine print is the life or death factor for an automatic transmission. Get the label from the user manual and then figure out who makes the product meeting the required standards!

 

[PosterFZ6]

On another forum that I am a member of, a guy has a V-strom motorcycle which has 300k miles on it.

He bought it new back in '05 I think, and he uses cheap FRAM oil filters and car oil for the whole 300k miles. So far the motorcycle purrs like a kitten.

His testimony and service history alone have convinced me long ago that in marketing is just a bunch of crap designed to make a target group spend $50 on 4 quarts of super duper fully synthetic, blessed by the pope Mobil -1 "motorcycle only" oil.

Industry specifications exist for a reason.

Not only Rottella meets the JASO-MA specification it's also a diesel engine oil meant to be used in heavy machinery. If a combine tractor engine uses this oil, I doubt that a puny motorcycle engine will kill itself from this oil.

Point is.

Cheap oil filter and cheapo oil is better than no oil at all

PS-Rotella is well regarded amongst motorcyclists and used extensively. It's pretty cheap too. So win-win.

 

[fb40dash5]

I hope no one's been convinced that using normal oil would hurt their engine, least of all a liquid-cooled engine that doesn't have the higher oil temps an air-cooled does. AFAIK the only issue really is wet clutches, and I think that's even blown out of proportion compared to the difference it makes.

I use T6 in pretty much everything I own: FZ, Subaru, and Tacoma. Between being a cheap, decent oil and being available in gallons, it makes it easier than having to keep 2-3 different oils around... I keep about 8-10 gallons of it on hand at work, which I also mark up and offer for diesel oil changes.

 

[iSteve]

I was under the impression that T6 is a energy saving oil and does not meet JASO-MA. I know the T4 was JASO and I think T5 may have been. If someone has a container handy could you check, oil formulas change very quickly.

 

[oaks]

I was under the impression that T6 is a energy saving oil and does not meet JASO-MA. I know the T4 was JASO and I think T5 may have been. If someone has a container handy could you check, oil formulas change very quickly.

Nope. From a year-old jug. It would say Energy Conserving in the bottom of that circle.

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/50360-my-clutch-plate.html#post552819

 

[Erci]

Nope. From a year-old jug. It would say Energy Conserving in the bottom of that circle.

Also.. I could be wrong (because this is strictly from personal observation), but xw-40 never seems to be energy conserving. Only the -20 and -30 seem to have that trait.

 

[FinalImpact]

Also.. I could be wrong (because this is strictly from personal observation), but xw-40 never seems to be energy conserving. Only the -20 and -30 seem to have that trait.

I've seen multi viscosity 5 20 and others in E/C. So Im not sure that's the ticket.

How about we all post up a picture of the product and specification. Feel free to include dino fluids...

 

[Tailgate]

Isn't the Yamaha FZ6 a diesel engine anyway?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Isn't the Yamaha FZ6 a diesel engine anyway?

Some of them sound like it!!!:thumbup:

 

[fb40dash5]

I've seen multi viscosity 5 20 and others in E/C. So Im not sure that's the ticket.

How about we all post up a picture of the product and specification. Feel free to include dino fluids...

I don't think any of the diesel oils are EC, at least I've never seen them.

All my jugs at work (including ones from a couple months ago bought from Wally World, so pretty fresh) say JASO-MA and don't say Energy Conserving... AFAIK the two are mutually exclusive.

 

[FinalImpact]

I don't think any of the diesel oils are EC, at least I've never seen them.

All my jugs at work (including ones from a couple months ago bought from Wally World, so pretty fresh) say JASO-MA and don't say Energy Conserving... AFAIK the two are mutually exclusive.

I'll keeps my eyes peeled. :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

FZ6
AMSOIL Synthetic 10w-40 High Performance Engine and Transmission Lubricant
SPEC:

• API SG,
• SL/CF/CG-4
• JASO MA/MA2
• ISO-L-EMA2

Cage's get:
Valvoline 5-20wt Premium Conventional gas engine motor oil...
SPEC:

• API SN/SM
• ILSAC GF-5
• Resource Conserving
• FORD WSS-M2C945-A
• GM 6094M
• Chrysler MS-6395

Hopefully some of you noticed the product difference, i.e Resource Conserving vs Energy Conserving. Here is an article from 2010 partially addressing the topic. API SN Crosses Finish Line
Also with the new SN rating the Zinc/Phosphorus levels ARE EXTREMLY LOW! Like less than 400 ppm to reduce harm to precious metal Catalytic Converters. Old school oils from 12+ years ago had higher levels of Zinc/Phosphorus or ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate).

WHY AM I TALKING ABOUT THIS: The FZ is flat tappet engine that requires ZDDP to keep from eating the camshaft. Guess what, the oil the OP posted is one of the better ones as the Diesel blend allows higher levels of protection. If this has anyones attention who owns NON-ROLLER CAMSHAFT ENGINES, I suggest you read this: -->> The Straight Scoop on ZDDP (Zinc) Additives | Blog | Bar's Leaks & Rislone - Premium Automotive Chemicals

Bottom line: the Cages get STP oil treatment as it has ZDDP in it to sustain the needs and keep old tappets happy. And yes, a hydraulic lifter is still a flat tappet (old Fords 302, 351, 390, 429, 460; Chev 307, 327, 350, 400, 454)... Camry 1MZ-FE, YAMAHA FZ6 and cousins with lifter buckets and shims need ZDDP to live a long life.

Last but not least - all of my engines have lasted upwards of 250,000 miles using STP in Blue bottle. Been doing it since 16 and I'm not exactly young! Camry has 265,000 on it and I did 160,000 of those on Dino oil and STP. 375K on a Nissan engine. Take it with a grain of salt if sell everything in 2 years....

 

[Red Wazp]

My wife was at Wally world today getting me a gallon of T6 for my 990. The clerk told her it was for VW's not motorcycles. She laughed.
Rotella T for the Wing and T6 for my KTM

 

[FinalImpact]

[MENTION=6338]TownsendsFJR1300[/MENTION] if you recall a while ago we had a topic go into "shear factors" and how this breaks down oil. This whole topic got me reading about how little of that additive is in the oils I use which I found very interesting.

So by using roller camshafts for valve operation (even in OHV engines), they can cut back on the ZDDP levels as the shear wiping element of a conventional camshaft is not required. With my vehicles as the unit of measure, it seems if they don't "burn oil per say" then the CATs should be OK. Like I said, 265,000 miles on factory cats with HIGH doses of ZDDP. So what gives? Why the concern?

I'm guessing my current ride doesn't need the STP as its a roller follower design.

Also, it seems the "Race" oils have a much higher content. But then you have to change more often. I'm going to write a couple folks and see if I can uncover some more info about what I'm really putting in my engines.

Thanks for listening.... FI